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Thread: dead truck

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Philly, PA
    Posts
    7

    Default all connections good, truck dead and 101F underneath

    Thanks to all for suggestions. I have looked for and checked all the electrical connections and cannot find any apparent de-grounding problems. I have tried jumping it from my other car - to no avail - truck is dead. There is NOTHING electrical that works. Can turn the key - but the electric windows do not work, headlights do not work, turn signals do not work, brake lights do not work, headlights do not work. Oddly, the interior light works, the light under hood works, and the power lock mechanism works. But only those three things work!

    After 45 min under the truck this afternoon - at 101F - I was actually putting together the words to sell this truck....and rationalizing a price. But then I thought of a recent design and performance off road perspective I read in a British car magazine (last night) - and came to my senses... Cannot sell this - need to FIX IT. Frustration building. The magnitude and breadth of the electrical death is telling me something...just not sure what it is though.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Cen Coast Cal
    Posts
    50

    Default I Feel Your Pain !

    Hang in there Vintage!

    This one is def. a Ghost-in-the-machine job.

    I'd say crawl under and look to see WHAT could have gotten wet with the puddle episode.

    After that, look towards ALL the electrical connections that are affected by water into the floorboards. There's all those relays in those two kick panels and moisture LOVES to hang out there.

    Other that that, this is a possibly a major ECU dealie, but not convinced yet. The ECU is so far away from the possibility of a puddle-crossing affecting your Rangie that it has to be something else... perhaps a wire leading to the ECU is being affected/crimped ???

    Please keep us updated. I once had a non-start issue that was traced back to a bad coil ground.

    --ccec
    1993 RRC LWB -- One of many
    L-R's these past 30 years...


  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Cen Coast Cal
    Posts
    50

    Default Shop Manual Says...

    Vintage,

    After my "posting the obvious" last night, I broke out my shop manual this morning.

    This is the three-inch thick book that covers 1990 - 1994 RRC's... but, oddly enough, the wiring diagrams are only presented for 1990 and 1991 model years. Other years are found in a separate pub...

    ANYWAY, what I found is that you should check these items:

    1. The actual positive terminal post on top of the battery, There are a cluster of fat wires that lead to various places. Of course, remove and clean the actual post and connection. Maybe your radiator has been spewing fluid onto this terminal and the connection has been compromised. Same with the negative post, clean and scrub.

    2. Nothing will light up if the "Ignition Load Relay" is toasted. According to my book, this is located under the dash, on the steering column. What's also involved, though, is fuse A-8, and the LH stop lamp (again, according to the book). So check those.

    3. While your at it, check ALL the fuses in the fuse panel, on the lower dash, passenger side.

    4. There should be a big wire leading from the battery to the positive side of the starter solenoid. Might as well trace it, and make sure it's not messed up.

    Good Luck,

    ccec
    1993 RRC LWB -- One of many
    L-R's these past 30 years...


  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    N.H.
    Posts
    82

    Default

    You have probably blown one or more of the fusible links. If you follow the wires from the +ve battery terminal you will find they go into what looks like a canvasy covered loom that runs along the top of the RH inner wing (fender). If you peel this all back you will see that the wires have fusible links in them - one or more of these has probably corroded over time nad finally blew.

    I've owned 2 1994 RR's and thsi has happened to both of them.

    Mike

  5. #15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by joshua.mcguoirk View Post
    Battery should be around 12.5V at rest.
    May dip down to ~10V while attempting to start.

    To test the ignition switch... turn the key to the on position (II?)
    Get under the vehicle and jump the starter by using a remote starter switch or by attaching a cable from the positive terminal on the starter to the bendix terminal. Does engine attempt to start? Or nothing?

    I too live in Philly and may be available to render assistance.
    ----

    Joshua -- thanks for this tip, though I don't know which is the Bendix terminal. My '90 RR County's starter motor is engaging intermittently (fun, huh?) and I'm trying to locate the problem. Seems like the switch... more ideas? Thx from TJ

  6. #16

    Default

    Do you know anyone with the same model, same age? If so borrow his ECU and put it in yours. These often fail on the Range Rover Classics and are becoming quite sought after.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Philly, PA
    Posts
    7

    Default SUCCESS! The Phoenix, aka Green Beast...rises again.

    To all who helped with advice, suggestions and encouragement - Thank you. As the weather here in Philly on the weekend finally decided to stay below 90F, I went to truck and fixed it. What was it? It was a broken connection - the actual wire was broken - in the "loom" of wires that exits the hot terminal on the battery - resides on top of right fender. This was suggested most directly by "Mike" - but others also correct to suggest I follow the hot wire and find problem. One seemingly small yet so important wire shut down this truck. By the way, perhaps I should not be surprised at the nature of the loom - seems closer to my old '71 88 than an '94 RR. La plus ca change la plus c'est la meme...

    This forum and its members made this fix possible - that's really cool and again, thanks to all.

    Now, to determine why the coolant is pooled under my truck...I think I will start a new post for that, if I don't fix it after I dig around. I think the rad is shot because coolant just leaks out of bottom right corner when truck sits idle (as it did for last two weeks!).

    Range Rover ownership - can it get any better?

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Cen Coast Cal
    Posts
    50

    Default Suh-Weeet!

    Insert music:

    "On the road again...!"

    Good the hear the Philly Flyer is mobile... but do we have to bring the French into it???

    --ccec
    1993 RRC LWB -- One of many
    L-R's these past 30 years...


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