Battery drain

[jbaxleyiii]

I've got a '92 (new to me) classic that is running great. However, every couple of days I have to charge the battery because it has totally died. Something is pulling around 1.3mA as measured from the positive pole where the fuselink wires come through (not the other part of positive). I pulled all fuses on the dash, under both seats, and pulled the fuel injection controller. Both the battery and the alternator have been checked positive by local auto parts store.

Anyone have any direction or ideas?

I have had to pull fuse B2 (dome lights / radio / driver seat controls) because my dome lights never shut off. Not sure if related since I pulled the fuse but maybe?

Thanks!

[mearstrae]

I had similar problems with my '95 Classic. Once it was the positive wire going to the starter (so corroded and dirty it was grounding out). And once it was my Muti-Function unit (under the drivers fuse block) that had gotten water inside and made a mess of the connections. And once it was my battery that showed good but was shorting slightly internally. These three problems wouldn't be affected by pulling fuses. Your dome light circuit would drain things pretty well, but you've pulled the fuse, so that should be out of the mix. Do you have a shop manual, so you can trace all the various circuits? If not the RAVE Manual is available on-line for free, just Google it.

'99 Disco II
'95 R.R.C. Lwb (Gone...)
'76 Series III Hybrid 109
'70 Rover 3500S

[jbaxleyiii]

I do have a shop manual and have been working on tracing the wires. I traded batteries for my series III (which has never had battery issues) and the classic is holding charge great and the series III died over night! It may be a coincidence but I'm hoping it's just a bad battery! I'll check the other spots as well!

Thanks!

[alanl]

I have the same problem with a 91 Classic and despite all attempts, have never been able to track the source of the problem. Not a perfect solution, but an isolation switch between the battery and the main positive cable eliminates the problem. If you use long wires to from under the dash you can operate it without having to open the hood.

[Les Parker]

X2 on the battery isolation switch, my 91 Hunter has the same issue. Methinks it's either the alarm ecu or the efi ecu leaking down somewhere.