Clutch not disengaging - bled but struggling with settings

[HucklebuckRover]

Having this issue again - can start in gear and release the clutch to move but can't shift while running -

[biffidum]

Clutch adjustment on these things is basic in the sense that you turn the adjustment bolt on the upper housing until the clutch pedal has about 1/2" of free play (grab and wiggle). This way you know the release bearing is not engaged when the pedal is at rest (won't last long otherwise). If you can't change gears when running you need more throw - which tells me you have way too much free play in your pedal or you have air in your lines.

If your pedal has normal free play, you might have to push fluid through the lines (bung and a tiny bit of air pressure) if you are concerned about air.

I rerouted my clutch hard lines to go straight down to the slave with a couple of bends to accommodate engine vibration. It is far simpler to bleed as bubbles go straight up and out.

Are you double clutching?

[roverp480]

Check that neither of the cross pins in the coupling sleeve between the release bearing housing and the operating shaft where it passes through the rubber grommet, have not broken . Often one end can break vastly reducing the amount of available movement . Item 65 is the pin and 64 the coupling sleeve , This is a picture of an early s2A but the principal is the same and the pins now often have a head on one end and just one split pin the other, also the spring 68 was deleted later on. I have had this happen a couple of times over the years. The pin being in two pieces and still in situ, so not obvious it was broken .

[HucklebuckRover]

Thanks - Yeah I've gone through the green book settings and just can't seem to get it - I'll double check the pins. One thing that I keep getting turned around on is the master cylinder setting. Should I slack those off and set the pedal with the adjustment bolt in the end of the housing and then tighten the lockups on the master to suit?

If there was major internal clutch damage do you think it would still engage as it is releaseed when started in gear? I'm tempted to separate the engine and tranny again but thinking it may be a waste.


Yes for double clutch when I remember

Clutch adjustment on these things is basic in the sense that you turn the adjustment bolt on the upper housing until the clutch pedal has about 1/2" of free play (grab and wiggle). This way you know the release bearing is not engaged when the pedal is at rest (won't last long otherwise). If you can't change gears when running you need more throw - which tells me you have way too much free play in your pedal or you have air in your lines.

If your pedal has normal free play, you might have to push fluid through the lines (bung and a tiny bit of air pressure) if you are concerned about air.

I rerouted my clutch hard lines to go straight down to the slave with a couple of bends to accommodate engine vibration. It is far simpler to bleed as bubbles go straight up and out.

Are you double clutching?

[HucklebuckRover]

Checking back in to see if there are any other thoughts.

Bled the system again.

Checked the shaft pins.

I did notice a little freeplay in the release mechanism shaft when things were disconnected but guessing that's normal

Pedal should be ok -

slave rod has been extended a bit to try and make up for any wear or crap adjustments

Still nothin - it seems that the release bearing is being activated via the sight hole

Can still start in gear with the clutch down and not move until releasing the clutch

I feel like that would mean the issue is not internal right?

This is driving me nuts.

Thanks - Yeah I've gone through the green book settings and just can't seem to get it - I'll double check the pins. One thing that I keep getting turned around on is the master cylinder setting. Should I slack those off and set the pedal with the adjustment bolt in the end of the housing and then tighten the lockups on the master to suit?

If there was major internal clutch damage do you think it would still engage as it is releaseed when started in gear? I'm tempted to separate the engine and tranny again but thinking it may be a waste.


Yes for double clutch when I remember

[biffidum]

Could it be that your clutch fork pivot is worn? Check out Britannia LR restorations (https://britrest.com/product/super-duty-clutch-fork/) as he sells a fork with an reinforced pivot for the pushrod. Watch his video explanation.

[HucklebuckRover]

I have the internal clutch withdrawal mechanism that operates on the rotating shaft. One thing I am seeing though is that it may work better with the 9.5" clutch and pressure place that has a flat and extended pushing surface that would give the flat surface of the style throwout bearing somewhere to push on more than the 9" pressure plate that's init now that has the three forks.

Could it be that your clutch fork pivot is worn? Check out Britannia LR restorations (https://britrest.com/product/super-duty-clutch-fork/) as he sells a fork with an reinforced pivot for the pushrod. Watch his video explanation.

[HucklebuckRover]

It looks like I have some slack in the mechanism before it engages.

This looks off right?

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/rka9vgz1hfopo5blb52oo/2024-07-27-16.25.32.mov?rlkey=mcx89qfpc10n5g9uzxzxz5eqr&dl=0