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  1. #1

    Default Seized windows

    Hi! Iím new to the forum and recently acquired a 1974 88 series 3 project. Iíve gotten stalled early on because the window frames are seized to the door. Any suggestions?????

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Mountains of Western Pennsy.
    Posts
    545

    Default

    Use lots of penetrating oil and lots of wiggling. There should be a strip of rubber between the window frame and the door, like inner tube rubber.

    '99 Disco II
    '95 R.R.C. Lwb (Gone...)
    '76 Series III Hybrid 109
    '70 Rover 3500S (Gone...)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    51

    Default

    Mine were rusted in place. Required me to get now door frames and door tops.
    Sean
    1971 Series IIA Dormobile

  4. #4

    Default

    I'm having the same problem. I have the drivers side almost off but one post is still not budging. I've used oil, heat, hammer. still not coming off. I'm thinking about using an air hammer chisel. Best of luck!

  5. #5

    Default

    Finally got it free. I was able to pull out the seal between the door and window. Just enough room for a cutting wheel. Cut it and drilled it out.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    killingworth CT
    Posts
    716

    Default

    Try using a flat scraper that might be used for applying mud onto drywall, its thin enough to get into that gap, work it around and try to separate any rusted areas,

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    killingworth CT
    Posts
    716

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cedryck View Post
    Try using a flat scraper that might be used for applying mud onto drywall, its thin enough to get into that gap, work it around and try to separate any rusted areas,
    Does anyone want to chime in on the replacement aluminium forms from Rocky Mountain, 374$ dollars US?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Flagstaff, Arizona
    Posts
    1,087

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cedryck View Post
    Does anyone want to chime in on the replacement aluminium forms from Rocky Mountain
    The only problem I'm aware of is that that the sliding windows don't open as far as stock windows. This may be a problem if you like to rest your elbow on an open window sill.

    I tried a set of aftermarket new door tops in '96. The angle was a little off so the door tops did not close tightly against the sides, allowing lots of rain water to enter. By 2010 they were badly rusted to the point that they came off the door bottom in parts. In 2010 I went with genuine LR D90 door tops. Expensive but they are still like new.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Mountains of Western Pennsy.
    Posts
    545

    Default

    I had gotten Rocky Mountain door tops some time ago, and am happy with them. Got mine at a super price from someone who didn't install them.

    '99 disco II
    '95 R.R.C. Lwb (Gone...)
    '76 Series III Hybrid 109
    '70 Rover 3500S (Gone...)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Famouth, ME
    Posts
    868

    Default

    RM's used to be sold unglazed - much more reasonable back then. Worth every penny IMHO (if you can swing the price).

    Helpful Hint: With any door top be sure to use lots of Anti-Sieze on the posts.

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