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Thread: Clutch MC seeping

  1. #1

    Default Clutch MC seeping

    The clutch master cylinder on my left hand drive 1973 Ser. III 88" is seeping fluid down the clutch pedal. I've got a rebuild kit from our hosts, but am looking for some cheats on rebuilding it. Currently it's pretty well covered by the left front fender. Removing the fender would be a pain. Trying to work under the fender to remove the MC would require a contortionist. Can I not just disconnect the pedal and remove the MC innards from the footwell? Then I could lightly sand the bore, clean and lube it, and rebuild it with the parts in the kit. Anyone done that? Thanks!

    erik

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    10

    Default

    Hello Erik,

    I undo the splash guard and steering box cover and the bolts holding fender to firewall. I then wedge a piece of wood to hold the fender just ar enough away so I can get at the master cyl. Its worked for me for many times.

    Basil

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Basil6 View Post
    Hello Erik,

    I undo the splash guard and steering box cover and the bolts holding fender to firewall. I then wedge a piece of wood to hold the fender just ar enough away so I can get at the master cyl. Its worked for me for many times.

    Basil
    That sounds like a good workaround, as long as I don't end up with a kink in the side of the fender.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    killingworth CT
    Posts
    735

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Basil6 View Post
    Hello Erik,

    I undo the splash guard and steering box cover and the bolts holding fender to firewall. I then wedge a piece of wood to hold the fender just ar enough away so I can get at the master cyl. Its worked for me for many times.

    Basil
    Just my 2 P here, I have never had much luck with rebulding, if I am going to take it out to rebuild I might as well replace with a new unit. Once pitting begins on the bore, it will continue fast, so I just replace.
    You should be able to remove the entire pedal box with the plunging unit still inserted.

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cedryck View Post
    Just my 2 P here, I have never had much luck with rebulding, if I am going to take it out to rebuild I might as well replace with a new unit. Once pitting begins on the bore, it will continue fast, so I just replace.
    You should be able to remove the entire pedal box with the plunging unit still inserted.
    It's been a month or so since I started this thread, but I finally got around to doing the repair. First I moved the fender as recommended. I found that it might be possible to remove the m/c from the pedal box but it would be a monumental pain to work in that tight area. Also I wouldn't be able to lube the pedal pivot or repair any pedal box rust if I didn't remove the pedal box and m/c as an assembly. I struggled to get the box out past the fender, but even with it pulled to the side the brake booster and m/c were in the way.
    As I struggled with the heavy pedal box I accidentally dropped it beneath the fender and the solution became clear - the pedal box assembly comes in and out from below, not from above! Working behind the LF tire I was able to drop the pedal box, turn it 90 to get the pedal out though the hole in the bulkhead. After replacing the m/c on my workbench and servicing the pedal box the whole assembly was reinserted from beneath the fender. Having the fender loose and propped away from the bulkhead gave move room for turning the pedal assembly under the fender, but beyond that was perhaps not needed. Photos posted below, sorry about the website turning them sideways.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Fender moved to side
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    No way to get the pedal box out or in from above
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    Pedal box going in from below, pedal already though bulkhead hole
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    Pedal box almost back in place and ready to bolt down.

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