Causes for a seized engine?

[chuckstp]

I'll send a picture of the cylinder sometime later when the sun comes up. Well, depending on the weather. It's raining here now. With my ignorant eyes though everything looks great in the engine. It looks like the washer got sucked into the engine while I was trying to start it so it didn't have a chance to bang around on anything. I suppose to check the connecting rod, besides a visual, I should be able to measure the distance from the block to cylinders 2 & 3 at TDC.

[chuckstp]

As requested, pictures of the cylinder head. First is #2 which looks great along with the slight impression of the washer in the carbon.


The other picture is of #4 which looks like it has some issues. I presume that is the intake valve with the splits in it. Anyone have a guess what would cause something like that?

[yorker]

The other picture is of #4 which looks like it has some issues. I presume that is the intake valve with the splits in it. Anyone have a guess what would cause something like that?
[ATTACH=CONFIG]10322[/ATTACH]

Exhaust valves are always or almost always smaller than intake. "Intake valves are usually larger than exhaust valves because pressure forcing charge into the cylinder is much lower than that forcing the exhaust gases out."


The cracks are kind of odd but somewhat similar to some burned valves I've seen. http://www.aa1car.com/library/ar1192.htm

[bugeye88]

#2 looks OK if the pistons 2 and 3 have the same measurements at the top of TDC. As for #4, Yorker is right is saying this is not good. The burn and cracks on #4 exhaust are not indicative of a healthy environment there in #4. Does not explain why the engine came to an abrupt halt though. There could be some other "surprises" lurking in this engine.

Rob
Bugeye88

[ccbullet]

I'm having similar issues with a 1966 IIa. Long story short, it was sitting for a decade, and now my problem. When I bought it, I thought I only had ignition issues to figure out because the starter was turning over fine. But tonight I was trying to turn the crankcase pulley and it's stuck. Will try to chip away at troubleshooting...any advice would be helpful. Thanks!

[erik88lr]

Were it my engine I'd squirt some Kroil (http://www.kanolabs.com/) into each cylinder and let it sit for a week or so and then try turning it again.

[ccbullet]

Were it my engine I'd squirt some Kroil (http://www.kanolabs.com/) into each cylinder and let it sit for a week or so and then try turning it again.

Just ordered some Kroil. A friend recommended Mystery Oil too...any difference anyone has noticed?

[jp-]

Just ordered some Kroil. A friend recommended Mystery Oil too...any difference anyone has noticed?

Have not tried Kroil, but have tried Marvel MO in a stuck TR4 motor. Let it sit for 2 months, it didn't do anything.

And about the valve sizes, the only motors that I am aware of that had larger exhaust valves (than intake) were the early Bugatti motors. Just a fun fact, read somewhere long ago. Saw a beautiful type 57 in Hamilton, NZ a few months back! Sitting right next to a 540K (not the roadster unfortunately) but still one of the most beautiful cars of all time!

[ccbullet]

The Kroil worked...can now hand turn it. Thanks for the tip!

[lumpydog]

Awesome - keep the updates coming now!