Source for 200tdi

[bfrieck]

Where does one find a good used 200tdi at a reasonable price (<$1,500) on this side of the pond? Or across the pond, for that matter?

[Les Parker]

Where does the figure of $1500.00 come from?
You may find a Discovery 200TDi for this fiqure, it would probably need some work doing to it. Such as new rings/bearings/gaskets.
Bear in mind that any 200Tdi was only production fitted from 1989 to 1993 and that production of the engine ended nearly 20 years ago !

[ThePhotographer]

Does sound quite low...I was allocating around $5k for a nice 200TDi...

[bfrieck]

Well, that's not particularly good news but your statement about there only being about 4 years of production, coupled with the fact that they were installed in very few, if any, vehicles exported to the USA, explains the relatively high prices for good used ones. I think my research turned up someone, maybe in Georgia somewhere, that sells a kit including a good used motor, to install a 200tdi in a Series for around $5,500 not counting freight. Sounds like that may be about right. What about the 300tdi? Would it be any better?

[ThePhotographer]

Well the 300TDi was used from 1994, to 2006...so yes there's a good chance you'll find one. They're not cheap either however.

[derekchace]

In the UK I'm paying $5k for a 200/300tdi conversion with all the extra bits.

[bfrieck]

Derek, is that what you are paying to have the conversion done to a vehicle (that could have been built that way) in the UK before it is shipped here? If so, that's not bad considering that's a little less than what the parts alone are going for here. Or did I misunderstand what you are saying?

[derekchace]

That's with the engine and conversion completed in the UK. Before you ask I do not source engines. It's just what I pay to get a clients Defender converted over to Tdi specs.

A is Tdi conversion in the states would be around $12k with engine, parts and labor. This is assuming you can find the parts and engine in the UK at a good price and ship them.

[bfrieck]

Derek, Thanks for the heads up. I'm not sure I'd want to spend $12k convert a 95 Discovery, maybe a Defender, but it would take a long time to get it back in mpg's. I did find this on ebay which would save the UK part and perhaps simplify the process. Probably still cost about as much as you estimated though.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Land-Rover-200TDI-kit...-/390358278661

With mil spec 6.2 diesels being considerably less (<$1,000 sometimes); that's an interesting, if somewhat more complicated, alternative. Any experience with one of those?

[derekchace]

I would think very carefully before buying an engine off eBay. It's very hard to really know what your getting. You will find loads of horror stories on rover forums.

I just sold the 6.2 GMC deisel we had in stock. It was amazing in the power and mpg department. I like to a lot more the the Tdi. No idea of how to go about the conversion as that's not what I do. I did however really like the engine.

Derek

[Andy110]

Be very careful about buying from the UK, and Land Rover wreckers in particular. I got screwed by a UK wrecker, Defender 300TDI, R380 setup and rust free bulhead paid for, he closed up business almost before the check cleared! I would recommend buying from a reputable company or broker. I have heard from more than one company in the UK that most people over there list on EBay what they can't sell locally because it is trash.

[Broadstone]

I hate to say it but many sellers in the U.K. can smell an American wallet coming from a mile away. many prices seem inflated to an American purchaser unless it is a very honest and moral seller/mechanic. I know those in the U.K. looking for the same 200tdi installed are not paying $5000. Not even for a defender 200tdi installed with all the extras. It can be done a LOT cheaper than that.

[derekchace]

It can e done a lot cheaper if your willing to use a high milage engine, old parts, and a piss poor conversion shop. Also the Tdi's are getting a lot harder to find. It's a supply and demand problem right now. You can do it for as little as $1,000 how ever like most things Rover related you get what you pay for.

[bfrieck]

Derek, the 6.2 diesel you just sold was not in a Landrover was it?

From what I've learned here and on other forums is that the 6.2 is a great swap in many respects. The mil-spec 6.2's (so-called J code) are plentiful (i.e., cheap), often <50k miles because they mostly come from having been removed from Hummers in favor of a 6.5 installation (that source will eventually dry up I guess but right now there are plenty being dumped by the military), parts are easy to obtain and they are not as good for many applications where greater power is desired because later 6.5's are a good deal better and are bolt-ins. From what I can tell, the biggest challenge in using a 6.2 for increased mpg's is bringing the vehicle's gearing into the 6.2's sweet spot (it develops max torque at about 1,900 rpm) at the desired road speed. In one example of either a Discovery I or a RRC that I know of, a guy went so far as to install a GM 6 speed tranny (the one the Corvette uses, I think) in order to get to the 1,900 rpm range at 75 mph - the result was +/- 30 mpg at that speed and the end of his cooling problems.

6.2's into Series LR's is problematic from a space standpoint - it's been done; I can't find the link presently, but I found a step-by-step documentary of the swap. He got it in there, but he had to cut up the bulkhead and invade the cab slightly as well as move the grill forward like a Defender which gave up too much of the Series look to my mind.

What the world needs is a V-6 or in-line 4 diesel that's short enough to fit a Series nicely and generates its power at around 2,200-2,400 rpm. Oh, and it needs to not vibrate too much, be plentiful enough in the US to cost $1,000 or less in good used condition, and have most parts off the shelf at NAPA! Anyone know of such a thing?

[derekchace]

It was installed in a 87 D90

[boxerboy2]

I have had very good experience buying 200 & 300 tdi parts on ebay.co.uk. You have to know what you are looking for and what a fair price is as well as it helps to forge a relationship with a few wreckers. On Ebay they cant tell who you are until you need to ship it and a lot of them dont want to deal with the larger parts such as a complete engine block.

I believe that you can get a good, 100,000 - 130,000 200tdi for less than $1000 and then you have to ship it. Look for someone already loading a container and get it included in his shipments as a separate bill of lading... maybe an other $750.

Also recognize that "technically" speaking a engine identified as a 200TDi is not legal for import under EPA regs so you will have to be creative to get it through customs. Parts on the other hand are not as difficult.

Good luck

[bfrieck]

The procedure you describe sounds like something that would work much better for someone who was going to buy 200tdi or 300tdi engines/parts on a fairly regular basis or at least more than once. Establishing all the relationships that you describe including the due diligence required to weed out the charlatans would take time and is bound to come with a few disappointments. If the situation is as you describe it, and I assume it is, say $2,500 average all up for a 200/300 onshore stateside, the apparent going price of more than $5,000 seems a bit steep. Seems like competition would bring the price down.

[Skookumchuck]

I bought a 200tdi with a 300 turbo and manifold so it will fit in my 68 109. I paid just over $2,800.00 for everything.:D. Hopefully tomorrow it gets to the mechanic so he can get it installed. He has had the motor for a few weeks I just haven't been able to get the Rover to him.

[yorker]

What the world needs is a V-6 or in-line 4 diesel that's short enough to fit a Series nicely and generates its power at around 2,200-2,400 rpm. Oh, and it needs to not vibrate too much, be plentiful enough in the US to cost $1,000 or less in good used condition, and have most parts off the shelf at NAPA! Anyone know of such a thing?


Oldsmobile 4.3l. It was a good engine, I had 2 of them. Eventually crushed them because they had outlasted the Oldsmobiles they were in. It used the 2.8l's bolt pattern so you could use one of those adapters from Simon in Canada. In my experience they V6 did not share the same faults of the infamous Olds 350 diesel.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oldsmobile_Diesel_V6_engine#LT7

----------------------

Honestly though it would be far more worth it to engineer an Isuzu 4bd1t swap. They were used in tons of box trucks and are a piece of cake to rebuild(wet sleeves) they are far better engines than the Rover or GM Diesels are. http://isuzudieselswapper.com/

[nate6472]

Contact urbanlandcruisers.com in Atlanta. They have engines for sale now and do conversions.

[yorker]

Derek, the 6.2 diesel you just sold was not in a Landrover was it?

From what I've learned here and on other forums is that the 6.2 is a great swap in many respects. The mil-spec 6.2's (so-called J code) are plentiful (i.e., cheap), often <50k miles because they mostly come from having been removed from Hummers in favor of a 6.5 installation...

fwiw:
http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?2554-6.2-.5-chevy.-what-are-they-really-like

http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?11621-Versions-of-6-2-diesels

http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?11265-What-Diesel-engine-for-my-Rangie

http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?10775-6.2-in-a-Land-Rover

[bfrieck]

Seems to me this all boils down to three good candidates for a diesel into Series swap: an Isuzu 4bd1t, a 200/300tdi, or the GM 6.2; the disadvantages of each are that the Isuzu is not an LR engine, the 200/300 is expensive stateside, and the 6.2 while cheap is hard to make fit. Considering all I've heard and read to date, the Isuzu seems to be the winner because it will fit, it may not be so powerful as to overwhelm the Series drivetrain (although some mods might be a good idea), they are relatively common here and parts are easy to obtain, and they are probably the cheapest when all is said and done (the 6.2 is probably cheapest to buy but those savings are used up by the cost of a more complicated install particularly the need to replace virtually all of the rest of the Series driveline, upgrading the cooling system, and figuring out a way to fit the motor and maintain the Series look.

If the foregoing is fairly accurate, where does one find a good used Isuzu motor, and are there other versions of the Isuzu diesel that are essentially the same motor? Also, because sourcing a used motor from a salvage yard almost always requires describing the engine by referring to the vehicle(s) from which it came, which vehicles (make, model, year, etc.) were fitted with 4bd1t motors?

And, finally, are there sources for the adapter(s) that are need to mate the 4bd1t to the Series tranny?

[yorker]

There are probably 3 Truck Isuzus you could use, 4bd1t, 4bd1, and the later 4bd2. They came in box trucks here in the US from ~'85 to 200X. I can't remember the exact years.

In Australia the 4bd1t and 4bd1 came in Land Rovers in the 1980s, if you could get a bell housing from there it would be easy but they are rare and in demand. If it were me I'd swap out the engine and transmission and use one of the adapters from Advanced adapters- thet would allow you to use a better, stronger US transmission. Maybe a NV4500 or NV3550 or ???.

The engines are available on craigslist, ebay etc. You could easily buy a core engine and a rebuild kit and have a rebuilt engine for ~2500. Maybe cheaper if you shop around a while.

If you want to know more about these engines contact Dougal on the 4bt swaps forum or pirate... is a huge proponent of these engines and has more practical info about having them in Land Rovers than anyone else I know.

Keep in mind these are a real truck engine, meant to propel a 16,000# truck they are really understressed in a Land Rover- that can translate to even greater longevity and durability. Instead of using a 2.5l engine that is working at 85% of its capability you'll be able to use a 3.9l at 50% to do the same work.


------------------------------

There is also a 2.8- 3l Isuzu diesel that came in overseas troopers and adapers are available in the UK, it is a good engine but they are rare here, they need to be imported from overseas etc. It may be less work to install than a Isuzu 4bd1t but you might as well do a 200tdi really. It is a light duty consumer type diesel not an medium/heavy duty industrial type engine.

[yorker]

If the foregoing is fairly accurate, where does one find a good used Isuzu motor, and are there other versions of the Isuzu diesel that are essentially the same motor? Also, because sourcing a used motor from a salvage yard almost always requires describing the engine by referring to the vehicle(s) from which it came, which vehicles (make, model, year, etc.) were fitted with 4bd1t motors?

Google "Isuzu NPR" look for late 80s early to mid 1990s. They look like this: 6227

[TSR53]

A customer stopped by with one of these Isuzu engines in his early RRC, IIRC he was a local from Vermont. It was nice.

Here is another thread about the same with some great info
http://forums.roversnorth.com/showthread.php?8967-Isuzu-diesel-into-rangie

ps... I have a soft spot for Isuzu's (http://c7716.r16.cf2.rackcdn.com/RN-Forum/users/TSR53/Isuzu-4WD1.jpeg) :-)

[bfrieck]

That is all great information. Seems like I've seen Chevy's that look a lot like your photo - did Isuzu make them for GM? If so, did they use the same engines?

I know a guy here in town who says he used to work for Advanced Adapters so I'll check with him on what they make that would allow using both the Isuzu engine and tranny coupled to the rest of the Series driveline. A quick check on ebay indicates that the overhaul kit plus a "core quality" motor would be about the same price (+/- $2,000) as a "good" used engine. If they are as easy to rebuild as advertised (i.e., apparently not much machining as the liners are "wet" and easily replaced), it might be worth the extra effort to do it that way.

All I really want from the swap is to upgrade my 88" Series IIA so I'll have (a) better mileage, and (b) enough power to allow adding power steering, air conditioning, and highway speed capability (70-75 mph). I'm assuming the power advantage of the Isuzu over the stock 2.25L petrol Series engine is at least 50%, no? If that's correct, I'm thinking I might get what I want even without the turbo. My current plan is to replace my rotted out chassis with a coiler conversion chassis, swap in the Isuzu engine and maybe tranny and go. I'd keep my Series IIA driveline downstream of the transmission. (It has an overdrive fitted.) Within the context of my stated goals, does anyone see any significant problems with that strategy?

[bfrieck]

Further research indicates I need to modify my previous intentions. It appears that a coiler chassis is not compatible with Series differentials, axles, etc. as they are neither set up nor easily modified for a coiler chassis. Which means, unless I have this all wrong, I will either have to stay with leaf springs (maybe go to parabolics) or go to Disco or RR axles. Also, it appears that it may be easier to use an automatic transmission with the Isuzu motor; almost all the NPR trucks I've found as donors for the engine had auto boxes. My further research, including following up on the helpful links posted in this thread, has not found a single swap of the 4bd1t, 4bd1, or 4bd2 into a Series - all of the numerous swaps I've been able to find have been into Disco's or RR's. Does anyone know if the Isuzu motor will fit into the Series without extensive mods? Finally, it's my understanding that I should swap in a transmission because the Series unit just won't handle the extra power of the Isuza. What about the rest of the Series drivetrain downstream of the transmission (i.e., transfer case, differentials, axles, hubs, etc.)?

[yorker]

That is all great information. Seems like I've seen Chevy's that look a lot like your photo - did Isuzu make them for GM? If so, did they use the same engines??

Yes Izuzu made box trucks for GM, I forgot to mention that before. I think they used the Izuzu 4bd2t (well they also used the GM 5.7 gas and probably the Isuzu 6 cylinder diesels.)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cOsCEyvWG-g

[yorker]

http://www.pitstop.net.au/view/marques-rover-land/page/query/plu/555/

poke around in this forum too, I forgot to mention it before:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-landy-enthusiasts-section/

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-landy-enthusiasts-section/146612-4bd1-versus-4bd1t.html

[yorker]

I know a guy here in town who says he used to work for Advanced Adapters so I'll check with him on what they make that would allow using both the Isuzu engine and tranny coupled to the rest of the Series driveline. A quick check on ebay indicates that the overhaul kit plus a "core quality" motor would be about the same price (+/- $2,000) as a "good" used engine. If they are as easy to rebuild as advertised (i.e., apparently not much machining as the liners are "wet" and easily replaced), it might be worth the extra effort to do it that way.

That is one of the big advantages- these Isuzu engines were made with a consideration towards keeping it easy to rebuild, to save downtime for truck lines, delivery companies etc. You drive it 300k rebuild it IN THE VEHICLE with new liners pistons and bearings and then drive it another 300k. Actually in a LR the engine would be way understressed and probably wouldn't require the same rebuild cycle it does in a 16,000 pound truck. See if you can find the Isuzu's B10 and B50 ratings...



All I really want from the swap is to upgrade my 88" Series IIA so I'll have (a) better mileage, and (b) enough power to allow adding power steering, air conditioning, and highway speed capability (70-75 mph). I'm assuming the power advantage of the Isuzu over the stock 2.25L petrol Series engine is at least 50%, no? If that's correct, I'm thinking I might get what I want even without the turbo. My current plan is to replace my rotted out chassis with a coiler conversion chassis, swap in the Isuzu engine and maybe tranny and go. I'd keep my Series IIA driveline downstream of the transmission. (It has an overdrive fitted.) Within the context of my stated goals, does anyone see any significant problems with that strategy?

For an 88 I'd go with the stock Series transfer case adapted to a close ratio NP435 transmission which would in turn be connected to the Isuzu 4bd1t with a Chevy bellhousing and an Isuzu Swapper conversion (http://isuzudieselswapper.com/)kit. That would give you a nice durable and short drivetrain. I'd then be tempted to use range rover 3.54 diffs too even though you do have an overdrive. That highly geared combo would probably get you ~35mpg. The Isuzu Diesel would last forever and have all the power you'd ever want in an 88. I'd actuually run it with the turbo but lean it out- in other words detune it. You'll get more MPG and still have plenty of power. Unlike everyone with a 200TDi or 300tdi who wants to crank the pump up for more power. ;)

Your axles might be a problem- 10 spline Land Rover axles are not the strongest. There are a variety of solutions out there though ranging from custom stronger shafts to a 109's Salisbury rear axle to Toyota Land Cruiser axles.


http://youtu.be/1NYqzTEm8qU

[bfrieck]

Thank you Yorker, your advice is sound and valuable. I've been exploring this on other forums and I have to say that this one is the most civil and at least the second best source of information if not the first. I really appreciate your patience (and that of everyone else that has contributed to the thread so far) in indulging the questions of this newbie. I'm not trying to stop the thread as there may well be others out there with valuable advice. I just wanted to pause to say how much I appreciate everyone's help.

I found a source, maybe it was Advanced Adapters, the sells an adapter that makes the world think the back of the 4bd1t and variants is a Chevy small block which is pretty handy since there are probably more adapters to hook trannies to that engine than any other. Which brings me to one more question:

If I run across (or decide to go with) an automatic transmission what are the attributes of a good candidate (length, obviously) and what model trannies would be good. That begs the question: what about the auto tranny that could easily come with the 4bd1t motor as most of the NPR/Chevy/GMC trucks were autos?

And one more: What is the rpm sweet spot for the 4bd1t? I'd like to get as close to that as possible at about 70-75 mph highway cruising speed.

[yorker]

I don't think you'll find an automatic transmission short enough. With an 88 you really do not have much room to play with. If you use a NP435 4 speed and an adapter like the one Ike Goss of Pangolin 4x4 sells your drivetrain will be almost as short as the stock Land Rover drivetrain. If you do go with an older US truck 4 speed they are very strong but often have a wide ratio- the first gear is ~6:1 and that makes it less useful. Look for a close ratio NP435- then you can use all the gears.

You might be able to use the Isuzu 5 speed too- but I don't know anything about them.

One way or the other this will be a lengthy and expensive project. When you are done you'd have a setup second to none, bullet proof, easy to service, good mpg etc. If you are planning to rebuild your Land Rover from the ground up on a new galvanized chassis anyway then it makes sense to do IMHO. Also if you want to make a coil sprung series truck don't forget that Designa Chassis in the UK makes a chassis that lets you do that.

[bfrieck]

Indeed I am planning to build my Series IIA from the ground up. In fact, it's already completely apart so I'm most of the way there lol! I looked at the Designa Series 88 coiler chassis but it appears that I would have the problem of having to use Disco or RR running gear - not a huge deal but does pose the problem of a slightly overwide track which has to be disquised with flares, offset wheels, etc. - that may be the way to go if it turns out that the Series axle and diffy's are not up to the task. Would save a lot of work to make that decision now, obviously. Coil springs are attractive because of the improved ride, but I've heard that proper tweaking of the leaf springs, including the installation of parabolics, is an underrated way to improve the ride considerably. I'd welcome comments on that.

Because of the cost (with added shipping) of the Designa coiler 88 chassis vs the abundance and very cheap if not almost free availability of Disco I chassis/running gear which can be shortened to accommodate the 88 body, I'm not sure it wouldn't be better (for me) to shorten and otherwise adapt a Disco chassis as a means of obtaining coils. FWIW, I have experience with hot dipping and a plant nearby so I could shorten and otherwise weld up a good Disco chassis (rust free ones are abundant here in Texas) and then hot dip it.

There is at least one documented build of a four link coil over suspension on a Series which would allow for the use of the stock Series diffy/axle housings, hubs, etc. - I'm pretty confident of my fab skills but that's so daunting as to be somewhere I'd probably not want to go.

Comments?

[yorker]

Coiler axles are easy to find, cheap, and have the advantage of disc brakes and coil springs. Other than that they aren't any stringer really. There are pics on East Coast Rover's site that show them vs standard series axles under series trucks, I don't think you'd need fender flares really. IMHO fender flares look terrible on a series truck- they ruin the classic smoothsided looks.

You could build a 100" using a Disco or RRC chassis and Series parts. That would give you some more drivetrain length to play with and you might be able to use an automatic transmission with that 100" wheelbase length. I'd suggest you watch "A 4X4 is Born" on youtube though to see what is involved first.
http://www.a-4x4-is-born.com/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SgekiTm40D0 that is just 1 part, the rest are on youtube.


FWIW Strictly speaking from a strength standpoint there is no point in keeping any Rover axles.

[bfrieck]

I've watched that video; it's entertaining and informative if a bit tedious with all the short segments and the lead in to each one. The 100" truck is thought by many to be best length. Unfortunately, I have an 88 and it's a lot harder to stretch an 88 than it is to shorten a 109. Given a choice, I would prefer a manual tranny - I was thinking I could live with an auto if it was substantially easier to do - particularly if the Isuzu auto was usable as so many more of the NPR trucks came with autos and I could get a motor/trans from the same donor.

All that said, I have a question about the weak axle situation. When one refers to axles, does that mean the actual axle shafts or does it mean the entire wheel-to-wheel set up including differential, axles, etc.? If it means only the actual axles, what about them is at fault? Are they metallurgically weak, not fat enough, not enough splines, or what? If it means the entire wheel to wheel unit, what breaks first? Does the differential fail or does something else go?

It'll probably annoy some folks, but I absolutely agree that wheel flares or, for that matter, tires that stick out beyond the body, take much away from the overall look of the Series. I feel somewhat that way about lifts as well - hell, with 16" wheels and stock springs the floorboard of my Series III ex MoD 109 FFR is already nearly 2' off the ground!

[yorker]

It isn't any harder to lengthen an 88- all you need to do is find a 110 or 109 3 door's bed- There have been a few for sale recently and they usually go cheap because (it seems) 90% of people with 3 doors would prefer a 5 door so they convert.I can't count how many 3door s I've seen converted to 5s over the years. I can only think of one guy who went the other way.

[yorker]

All that said, I have a question about the weak axle situation. When one refers to axles, does that mean the actual axle shafts or does it mean the entire wheel-to-wheel set up including differential, axles, etc.? If it means only the actual axles, what about them is at fault? Are they metallurgically weak, not fat enough, not enough splines, or what? If it means the entire wheel to wheel unit, what breaks first? Does the differential fail or does something else go?!

The differentials are weak, only 2 pin and they flex then the ring gear strips teeth etc. The axle shafts are tiny. In diameter they are somewhere between Suzuki Samurai and Dana 30 in size. The cases themselves are ok but by the time you correct the other issues you'll have a LOT of $ in axles that still have an inferiority complex.

[Edit] Salisbury axles are decent but still have small shafts.

[bfrieck]

Swapping my 88 bed for a longer one is a good idea. I hadn't thought of that. I'll have to figure out how to come up with a longer hardtop but maybe a longer bed will come with one? When you say a "110 or 109 3 door's bed" I assume you mean a Series 109 - but what is a 110 - would that be Defender or was there a 110 Series? If you're talking about a Defender, I guess I never realized the beds were the same.

As for the Series axles, sounds like I'm back to the Disco/RRC chassis with Series body - I know where I can get a 1995 Disco rolling chassis for free - scrapped for a bad engine, not a wreck - now I'm back to shortening the Disco chassis to make a 100" hybrid (or maybe shorter - whatever it takes to make the prop shaft long enough once I know how much room the new motor/tranny leaves me).

I've done some more research and I'd like your opinion on the zf 5 speed or 6 speed - seems they were put in many different vehicles and are presumably plentiful (read, cheap). Problem is that there are a lot of variations, e.g., with 4wd, w/o 4wd, for Ford trucks, for BMW's, for Jaguars, etc., etc., so I'll have to figure out which will match up to the Series transfer case (or should I use the Disco transfer case? - the downside with the Disco is full-time 4wd, if that's a downside).

Keep the answers and comments coming, yorker; if your patience holds out, you'll eventually figure this out for me.

[bfrieck]

This afternoon I took a look at the '95 Disco at the salvage yard - looks like everything is there - V8 motor's bad, body is straight and both will be retained by the yard, I'll get everything else including chassis, all suspension components, transmission, transfer case, power steering pump and box, entire brake system, all of both axles complete from the tire/wheel on one side to the tire/wheel on the other side, etc. The yard "mechanics" will remove the body with me in attendance. I can think of at least the following questions:

Do I want the entire steering system from steering wheel and column down?

Do I want the emergency brake system?

What should I watch out for/prevent during the body removal process?

Is the firewall/bulkhead separately attached to the chassis or is it part of the body?

All advice is solicited and will be greatly appreciated.

[yorker]

Are they going to charge you a lot more for the transfer case and hand brake assembly? I think I'd get the t case too if I could, it offers you more options down the road or you could always sell it off if you don't need it.

Full time 4wd isn't a problem for you if you are using coiler axles. Indeed it is an advantage IMHO as it spreads the stresses out more evenly between the two axles, it is probably why Land Rover got away with mediocre axle for so long.

If you are building a 100" hybrid you don't need to shorten the chassis, you probably knew that but misspoke.

ZF5 or 6 speed? I'm not sure which ones you are talking about. The ones in Ford trucks were ok but I've never heard of anyone using them for a swap. It wouldn't be my first choice- it would kind of be like selecting the Mazda M5OD (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazda_M5OD_transmission) used in Ford Trucks, it was ok, and common but no one uses them for swaps either.

[bfrieck]

No extra money for the transfer case or handbrake assembly. I get the entire rolling chassis; everything but the body and interior for one money; we all know the motor's bad so they'll keep that for the core or, more likely, to crush. I'll take the tranny as well even though it's an auto.

I don't know if I misspoke about shortening the chassis, but I measured the wheelbase Saturday and figured out that the Disco chassis would not need shortening if I went with a 100" hybrid.

If going with a 100" wheelbase allows for the use of an auto transmission, I may explore that. If so, the obvious path of least resistance would appear to be the one that will likely come with the 4bd1t or the one from the Disco. It would seem clear that the Isuzu auto can handle the 4bd1t's power; don't know about the LR box.

Otherwise, for manual trannies you've suggested the NP435 and I've also had the NV4500 recommended. I guess there are lots of possibilities once the 4bd1t is adapted to look like an SBC. Cheap, short, and compatible/adaptable to the transfer case will be relevant.

Comments?

[yorker]

Discos and Range Rover Classics are 100" thats why the popularity of 100" hybrids emerged. I don't think the ZF auto transmission can hold up to a 4bd1t but there are those who claim they can be built to stand up to almost anything... I still have my doubts. ;)

[bfrieck]

Is the ZF auto what the Disco has in it?

[yorker]

yep ZF hp22.

[Maryland 110]

the fact that they were installed in very few, if any, vehicles exported to the USA, explains the relatively high prices for good used ones.

There were none. No tdi powered trucks were ever offered for sale by LRNA.

[bfrieck]

Well, my salvage buddy called today and said his "mechanics" had removed the body from my discovery. He said everything went well. We'll see - I kind of wanted to be there when they did it and I thought we had so agreed but I guess not. Anyway, I was sort of envisioning a disco version of the bus chassis delivery in the movie "The Mexican", where a guy is ferrying a bus chassis across Mexico sitting on an apple crate with no body whatsoever. (I actually saw one of those going down the highway on a trip to Mexico a few years ago - just about the coolest thing I ever saw). Somehow I suspect my rolling chassis is going to be a long way from a "driver" - just hope there aren't a whole bunch of expensive missing bits. I hope to get over there tomorrow but it may not be until Saturday. I'm sure I'll have lots of questions.

[REDrum]

So where did this all go? Seemed like a cool project the OP was planning.

[lssah2025]

Hey guys, new to this forum, but on a couple of other LR ones. I currently own 2 XMOD LR's a 90 and 110. The 90 is currently in Romania, just did a 4500km trip cross country (11 countries) and she is staying with friends until I pick her up in April and head back towards the UK. My 110 is undergoing some minor work, bits and bobs etc, and then maybe a trip to Morroco in July or so, after that I will be shipping both back to the US. I will ship via a container (since I have 2) and I might have some additional room for bits and bobs. I would be open to throw some extra 200TDI, 300TDI R380's etc in the container and ship them over.

Cheers,
Lance