Door Latch Question

[pgeorgeson]

I have a 1966 IIA 109 station wagon with original/stock door latches (gratuitous photo below). While driving, the latches pop open (the door stays closed on the secondary latch plate). Is that a common problem? Is there a fix?

[LaneRover]

I have a 1966 IIA 109 station wagon with original/stock door latches (gratuitous photo below). While driving, the latches pop open (the door stays closed on the secondary latch plate). Is that a common problem? Is there a fix?

Wow - when my 109 p-up doors pop open they pop OPEN. Dog didn't like it much . . . does that make the dog smarter than me?

[TeriAnn]

I have a 1966 IIA 109 station wagon with original/stock door latches (gratuitous photo below). While driving, the latches pop open (the door stays closed on the secondary latch plate). Is that a common problem? Is there a fix?

Yes it is a common problem. My passenger door occasionally popped open when the frame flexed and on some curves. It once popped open on a left hand curve when I had a passenger. I grabbed her as she was starting to fall out, keeping her in the truck. I once had the door pop open for no apparent reason on a bridge crossing the Columbia river. The stuff that fell out: my toolbox, the dog's water and food dishes and a few other things were gone by the time I got back.

The best fix is to switch over to the SIII, early 90 anti burst door latch & striker. Off the top of my head you will need the latch, striker plate, foam gasket and the plastic ring that goes around the external lock opening. there are probably some additional fixings. Just look at an exploded drawing and order everything.

What I did was place grease on the top of the external lock then offer up the latch into place. Remove the latch and the grease on the inside of the door will tell you where the hole goes. I drilled mine slightly undersized then filed to get the hole location perfect. This was a little over 20 years ago and I have not had a door pop open since.

[darbsclt]

I have a 1966 IIA 109 station wagon with original/stock door latches (gratuitous photo below). While driving, the latches pop open (the door stays closed on the secondary latch plate). Is that a common problem? Is there a fix?

If you stick with the original "slam" latch... from what I recall, the striking plate has some "adjustability"... try loosening it and repositioning outwards a tad it so that the door latch catches fully.

Depending on how new your weatherstripping is/how much adjustment is possible with your striker plate, you might find yourself using a dremel/drill to elongate the striker plate mounting holes slightly. It's a bit fiddly... but having a latch that catches fully against the striker plate is sort of important.

[o2batsea]

You don't need to switch latches, just need to adjust what you have. I can close my doors with little effort and they don't pop open even on the trails. Those early 2A latches are IRREPLACIBLE and the later latches will not fit without cutting up your door.

[SirGeorgeSt]

I'm curious about door latches. Looking at the 66 109 photo in this string, the door lock seems to be in the door handle recess. On my '71 SWB, the lock comes out of a separate hole in the door just behind the handle recess. Is that a later IIA or maybe Series III modification? I'm still frittering about trying to find a way to keep everything stock but be able to lock the doors, either have keys fitted, or replace the cylinder.

George - Utah

[lumpydog]

It was very common to upgrade the door latches on the 2a trucks to Series 3 (anti-burst) door latches. Series 2a door latches had the lock cylinder in the door latch recess (as pictured above) and Series 3 door latches required a hole through the door skin for the lock cylinder .

Sounds like your 71 has been "upgraded" to the later Series 3 style latches (as does my 1968 2a btw).

[SirGeorgeSt]

Thanks for the info! There seem to be a number of things that are a mix between II and III on this beast. It was built on Aug 28 1971, so was likely on the line with Series III's. But then over 46 years it's had at least one tranny change and maybe an engine. The thing bugging me about the door latch is that the key cylinders are not replaceable, which seems to be in violation of the "Land Rover Code of It Can Be Fixed"! If I could figure a way to replace the key cylinders in those old locks, I could become a Trumpian Billionaire. Well, Hundredaire, anyway.

[TedW]

You don't need to switch latches, just need to adjust what you have. I can close my doors with little effort and they don't pop open even on the trails. Those early 2A latches are IRREPLACIBLE and the later latches will not fit without cutting up your door.

X2. It's all in the adjustment.

[lumpydog]

Thanks for the info! There seem to be a number of things that are a mix between II and III on this beast. It was built on Aug 28 1971, so was likely on the line with Series III's. But then over 46 years it's had at least one tranny change and maybe an engine. The thing bugging me about the door latch is that the key cylinders are not replaceable, which seems to be in violation of the "Land Rover Code of It Can Be Fixed"! If I could figure a way to replace the key cylinders in those old locks, I could become a Trumpian Billionaire. Well, Hundredaire, anyway.

You may have some overlapping parts naturally. Some of the late 2As had fully synchronized gearboxes - no need to double clutch.

You can replace the key cylinders on the Series 3 door latches. Some have figured out how to get them to work with ignition key so you only need one key to start and lock the truck

[cedryck]

My rear door had the "open itself while driving" syndrome, I tied a piece of rope around it, to yank it closed.