Another rear main question

[babe6488]

Greetings to all;
I can and will provide a bit more background in time; but currently, I have a more pressing issue than the need for introductions.

I’ve got a '64 88 that I have had since '95

.... long story.....

…skip to present.

I have rebuilt the engine, and recently threw it back in the truck and it started right up;

after I ...
replaced the transmission mounts,
replaced points, condenser, & coil,
rebuilt the carburetor,
replaced starter motor,
fitted a new fuel tank,
slapped on new fuel pump,
and installed a new cup holder for the cubby box…….

Then it started right up.

After the engine ran for a bit notice engine oil dripping (pouring) out of the bell housing.
A little duct tape covered the drain hole in the bell housing, so that worked for a bit
but there seems to be a consensus among those involved that the rear main seal was not installed correctly.

Only the second Rover engine I've rebuilt, so I might entertain the possibility.
All 4 of the round thingys go up and down in the big metal thingy really good, so overall I feel I’m okay.


I have a day coming up that I can pull it and flip it over and replace the rear main, then carefully put the engine back in this time and then drive away (hoping).

I've read the manual, so I know the basics on the installation.
BUT since obviously I don't have a firm grasp on that procedure; any help, tips, tricks would be graciously appreciated.

The truck has been down for 7 years, so I’m getting excited about being this close.

Thanks in advance;
Rick

A shot of Babe from her better days.

[jimrr]

that's a sad story (though temporary) It's been so long since i was into the engine i really don't remember if you can do that just by pulling the pan but often one can do that. don't plug the bell housing drain or you'll get your clutch soaked in oil.

[babe6488]

I was kidding about plugging the drain hole. I bought enough parts that i don't need to buy a new clutch plate too.

I am wondering about dropping the oil pan getting to the seal that way, but am worried about being about to get to everything and making sure the seal is seated properly.

The good news is that I am once again getting good (quick) at pulling the engine.

[jimrr]

i'd pull the pan, i think you can slide a new seal in around there. it's not like you can avoid it anyway, you'd just have to work ''upside down''.

[philbert]

Replacing the rear main seal is honestly one of the worst projects I can imagine for a series vehicle. The main problem is getting the rubber "T seals" to stay together while you are trying to install the lower retainer half into the engine block. As many others have mentioned, take the time to use either the special tool (hard to find) to guide the rubber T seals into the engine block or custom fab your own. Even with those guides, the rubber T seals have a tendency to tear. Maybe its possible to do this with the engine in place, but it is hard enough with the engine pulled & upside down on an engine stand. Good luck.

[babe6488]

Thanks for the advice.
Since I don’t know where the leak is originating, and I gotta pull the engine anyway; I’ll pull the engine, remove the distributor and use a drill in that linkage to spin the oil pump up to pressure and hopefully see the leak.
Stay tuned.....

[babe6488]

The kit had rubber and cork. Is there a difference? I used the cork seals because the rubber was a little too thick

[roverp480]

I hope you left a small portion of the T seal sticking out at the bottom of the cap as it tends to shrink back after a while, and create an small oil leak path.

[I Leak Oil]

Use the cork and replace the keepers, not just the seal.