Help me identify parts needed?

[NC Rover]

So my series has the transmission, transfer case and axles from a D90 (LT77 and LT230 I imagine). Both pumpkins are leaking a bit more significant than the average leak...and yes I know all land rovers leak. Also, the ebrake drum is slingling crap everywhere ...all over the muffler causing it to burn. So obviously I'm going to need a gasket or some other item there.

1.) By looking at the pictures and seeing the setup I have, can any of you direct me to exactly what parts I would need to purchase I were to have the leaks fixed for the most part?

2.) Obviously I have tranny fluid leaking from somewhere. What would need to be done as far as replacing gaskets to prevent this leak?

3.) Is there suppose to be some type of sheet metal that prevent mud and water from slinging up off of the front drivers side wheel onto the master cylinder/steering box? If so, where can I get one of these?

PS-yes my front tie rod is bent. I'm looking for a used one to replace it.

Sorry for the nooblike questions but my rover is a hybrid so I have never known what was stock and what was modified.

[leafsprung]

As far as you tranny goes, clean it off and determine where its leaking from, then you can replace those seals that are leaking. The ebrake is probably the rear output seal and the diffs look like the pinion seals. There are two components to creating a seal: the seal it self and the race on which it rides. Make sure the race is smooth or the new seal will leak as well. As for the cover under the fender, you have a non original booster assy , you will probably have to make something custom there as an original may not fit. You can see the bracket to which the original mud sheild attached has rotted away.

[BackInA88]

Looks like you are going to need a

• front diff pinion seal
• A rear t-case seal which is under the e-brake
• rear diff maybe oil blowing back from the t-case or the diff mounting bolts which you may get away with tightening?

It sure looks like the front housing is rotated quite a bit?
It looks like the front drive shaft angles don't match and and I believe with that t-case you are full time 4 wheel drive unless you have a part time kit installed.

I would start with power washing everything and start checking for leaks to get a better idea.

Steve

[NC Rover]

Thanks for the replies. Both drive shafts are custom. The galvy frame was from Arrow Services and apparently was Steve Parker Land Rover's first LHD galvanized frame from circa 1994 or 1995.

The transfer case is definitly full time 4-wheel drive. Its the 5-speed w/ 4wheel low/high (diff unlocked) and low/high (diff locked).

I will clean it off best I can to locate the origin of the leaks.

[Clembs]

hey it seems like you might have another problem with the rotary gerter.
You may need a walky talky. Hey you should post the same thing in the D90 section (if you haven't). If you ever got to the point of needing to do axel work or diffs you most likely already have 28 splines and up rated diffs.

You could go to west marine and get a piece of rubber belting about a foot or so wide and screw it to the inner fender over the brake and clutch boxes.
After looking are the under side of your rover i'd say its basically a mid '80s D90 with just a series body. I'm not sure of anything else that looks series. Just think of it as a D90 as far as working on it.
That is it floppems

[daveb]

hmmmm...not sure what all those words mean, but NC, you have a series coil chasis for sure. just look @ the crossmembers they are series style and a d90 would be different.

NC, you need to replace both diff pinion seals. pull the driveshafts, impact gun to remove the pinion nuts (after pulling cotter pins if they are older style diffs- <<edit: i see the front is a series II or IIa diff, so I guess you are probably running the 4.7 ratio>>) and then remove the pinion flange and washer. you can pull the seal with a seal puller tool found in the tool section of any auto parts store.

put a little gasket sealer on the outside of the new seal then drive it in straight using a piece of pipe as a drift. check the running surface on the pinion flange and if there is a groove, it can be fixed with a speedy sleeve. search the various forums for the speedy sleeve part number.

your tie rod is indeed bent, best go with one of the HD offerings from rovertym, I just put one on my 90 and it definitely brings the beef.

as for the axle being rotated up, that is normal on the coiler vehicles.

I am almost positive we used the standard SIII mudshields on the arrow chassis coiler 88 that I built here. our hosts have galvanized ones, get the steering box cover too. the 3 bolts at the top are not needed in my experience.

also it looks like your wing top should be trimmed to clear the master cylinder. when done right it comes very close to the edge of the bonnet so be careful. in fact, looking at your picture I wonder of they mounted the pedal tower lower to allow the m/c to sit under the wing.

oh, and on the tbox, no need to clean it up to find the leak, it looks pretty obvious that it is a the rear output seal. also a pretty easy fix, same deal more or less as the drive pinion. again, check the sealing surface on the rotating part...

best of luck
d

hey it seems like you might have another problem with the rotary gerter.
You may need a walky talky. Hey you should post the same thing in the D90 section (if you haven't). If you ever got to the point of needing to do axel work or diffs you most likely already have 28 splines and up rated diffs.

You could go to west marine and get a piece of rubber belting about a foot or so wide and screw it to the inner fender over the brake and clutch boxes.
After looking are the under side of your rover i'd say its basically a mid '80s D90 with just a series body. I'm not sure of anything else that looks series. Just think of it as a D90 as far as working on it.
That is it floppems

[BackInA88]

as for the axle being rotated up, that is normal on the coiler vehicles.d

Yes true my DII is a coiler but not rotated above the centerline of the drive shaft. BTW, I have a 2" lift.
Maybe it's just the angle from where the picture was taken it looks to be over center?

If it is as it looks in the picture, under load that pinion is going to rotate even more over center.
NC are you having any problems with drive line vibrations?

With a standard 2 u-joint drive shaft the angles on both ends should be as close as possible to the same so they will cancel each other out while rotating. Of course the u-joints also need to be phased (clocked) correctly as well.
My DII's pinion points right at the t-case flange, but a DII drive shaft has a double cardon u-joint assembly at the T-case so the angles can be different.

Steve

[bobzinak]

leaks

It could be that your vents on the axles are clogged up.. those small brass cap like items on top of the axle housings are vents so pressue can be released from the axle housings.. take them off and clean then wirh some brakleen you shoul be able to blow air through them. as far as you tranny leak it may be thet you only need to replace the felt seal that is behind the rear output shaft. is looks as though the fluid is not comming from the shaft seal. usually if the main seal leaks it comes out between the drum and shield.. remove you driveshaft and make sue that the nut is tight..bearing wear can losen the parts.. if its really loose you can see the output shaft shift wwhen you side load it with just you hand..try these easy things first.. it will only take thirty minutes to do.. bobzinak