Injection Pump Returns!

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • junkyddog11
    1st Gear
    • Feb 2007
    • 195

    #16
    yes, replace the seal. You'll be really bummed if you put this all back together and the $xx.xx (cheap) part fails and contaminates the timing belt and you have to go back in and do it all again.
    Its easier if you pull the front cover off (the one that the IP bolts onto) and you'll run less chance of damaging the end of the crank with the digging impliment used to pry out the seal. Re gasket that all while you are at it. Keep track of which fasteners go where.
    Matt Browne
    www.overlandengineering.com
    "resurecting junk through engineering"

    Comment

    • GeoffWillis
      1st Gear
      • Oct 2008
      • 101

      #17
      Originally posted by SafeAirOne
      Wow. That IS clean!

      If you bought the pump timing kit, I suspect that it included the pin to lock the flywheel in place.

      It doesn't really matter, because it isn't too difficult to time everything using the marks on the cog wheels and on the timing case even if things DO get moved around a bit. (unfortunately, I know this first-hand). You've got to time it up to reinstall the injector pump anyway, right?

      Looking at the bible, I'd say that the biggest PITA is removing and replacing the seal with the crankshaft in the way. Probably have to get just the right size pipe to install the new seal, unless you have special tool 18G1456 lying around.

      BTW...I wouldn't worry too much about draining the oil--It's all in the sump below the crankshaft anyway.


      Thanks for the quick reply, few questions:
      1) I know this first-hand). You've got to time it up to reinstall the injector pump anyway, right?
      What exactly does that mean? I carefully scribed lines in the injection pump/timing case, locked the flywheel with that VERY expensive tool, and lined all the marks up on the gears/timing cover. I was hoping just to put everything back in place and it would magically be timed correctly. I'm guessing that's not the case and if so guess I'll dig into the bible and see what's involved.
      2) In reading the bible, what is the double tensioning? Set the tension, crank the engine through two revolutions, slack the belt and repeat?
      Thanks,
      Geoff

      Comment

      • SafeAirOne
        Overdrive
        • Apr 2008
        • 3435

        #18
        Regarding keeping everything lined up timing-wise--Let me rephrase: Getting the timing marks a bit out of kilter while fiddling around with the seal won't matter much, so long as they're exactly lined up when you install the timing belt.

        Your understanding of the double-tensioning procedure is correct.

        TIP: Make sure the timing marks on the cog wheels and timing cover are still lined up AFTER double-tensioning. I swear mine were lined up on all 3 marks before tensioning. I put the whole thing back together without re-checking the timing marks after tensioning the belt. I even added coolant before I attempted to start the engine. Well, it wouldn't start and backfired horribly while cranking. I pulled apart the entire thing to find that the cam sprocket was now clearly 1 tooth off (7 1/2 degrees).

        The next time, I (very briefly) started it after double-tensioning the belt and before I put anything else on!

        Matt is right about the main seal being easier to change with the entire timing housing removed. If you go this route, remember that there are some gaskets between the timing housing and the block that'll need to be relpaced.
        --Mark

        1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

        0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
        (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

        Comment

        • daveb
          5th Gear
          • Nov 2006
          • 513

          #19
          i think that's a clip-on tie


          Originally posted by junkyddog11
          I'll bet you have a fake moustache
          A Land Rover would never turn up to collect an Oscar. It'd be far too busy doing something important, somewhere, for someone."


          Comment

          • RoverDover
            1st Gear
            • Jan 2010
            • 144

            #20
            I have a 2.5, it sucks a lot! But it always starts and has only left me stranded once. A 35$ head gasket was cheaper than an engine swap so I kept it.
            67 angry hamsters

            Comment

            • SafeAirOne
              Overdrive
              • Apr 2008
              • 3435

              #21
              Biodiesel

              Geoff, Just curious...had you run biodiesel through your pump before it began leaking? I've been doing some research on biodiesel's benefits over the ultra-low sulphur diesel when it comes to lubricating older pumps like ours. It seems that any diesel engine can run B20 biodiesel blend (20% ratio of bio to non-bio), but higher concentrations will effect natural and butyl rubber seals and could cause leakage in the fuel system components unless they were built (or rebuilt) with biodiesel in mind.

              Anyhow...Just wondering if higher blends of biodiesel killed your pump.

              Info on this from the National Boidiesel Board here.
              --Mark

              1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

              0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
              (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

              Comment

              • GeoffWillis
                1st Gear
                • Oct 2008
                • 101

                #22
                No bio-diesel

                No, I never ran bio diesel, but did run gas... Long story and my son feels bad enough.
                Geoff

                Comment

                Working...