1999 disco series 1 fuel filter replacement steps?

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  • Pmelvin11
    Low Range
    • Nov 2013
    • 3

    1999 disco series 1 fuel filter replacement steps?

    Ok so I have a fuel issue either the fuel pump is bad or the fuel filter. I'm gonna try the cheap route and go the filter path first (I know if I replace the pump I have to replace the filter too). My question is on the rear passenger side in the front of the tank I see the fuel filter. Do I need to pull any fuses before loosening the filter and will I need a decent size bucket in case of spillage. It appears it's is a simple wrench job too I hope. Any help is appreciated as always since I'm not a mechanic by any means I just love my disco.
  • mearstrae
    5th Gear
    • Oct 2011
    • 592

    #2
    Changing the fuel filter is pretty straight forward and the same as most other cars. Have a small can or bucket along with a rag (I use old towels) ready. Unfix the filter slowly and slip on the new one. Be careful, there could be some residual pressure on the system which will bleed off (that is; may spray out) when you take the first connection loose (I've never had this happen, as I leave vehicles overnight and any pressure that was present goes away). Other wise the fuel spillage will only be what's in the filter and in the line.

    '95 R.R.C. Lwb
    '76 Series III Hybrid 109
    '70 Rover 3500S

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    • joshua.mcguoirk
      1st Gear
      • Sep 2007
      • 122

      #3
      Looks like easy access... its not! No need to pull fuses or relays. To depressurize the system... the easiest method is to bleed pressure from the schrader valve located on the RHS of engine, found along fuel rail. There will still be residual fuel left in the lines... gravity takes over. We're talking oz. not gal.

      You will need two wrenches. Space is a premium on the down side of filter.

      For the easiest access/replacement:
      1.) Raise vehicle.
      2.) Remove wheel.
      3.) Remove (or loosen) bracket.
      4.) One spanner on filter, one on line.
      5.) Loosen the line nut, whilst holding the filter stationary.
      6.) Remove filter
      6a.) Inspect O-rings on each end of lines. Replace as necessary.
      7.) Refit filter ensuring arrow is facing engine side.
      8.) Refit bracket.
      9.) Refit wheel.
      10.) Lower vehicle.
      11.) Turn key to run position (engine off) to pressurize system.
      12.) Check for leaks.
      13.) Run engine.
      14.) Check for leaks.
      15.) No leaks? Success.

      The best way to diagnose fuel pump issues is with a Fuel Pressure Tester. Fuel pressure at the rail (schrader valve fitting) with the engine running should be ~35.534 psi. Engine running vacuum line removed from Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) should be > 40 psi. If not, this could indicate a weak/bad FPR. Otherwise you have either a weak Fuel Pump, clogged fuel filter or a crimped line to/from tank.

      Cheers, Joshua
      1990 RRC, 3.9L, AUTO "Willow Pond" (Sold)
      1996 D1, 4.0L, AUTO "Lucas"
      1999 RR, 4.0L, AUTO "Belle" (Sold)

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      • antichrist
        2nd Gear
        • Mar 2009
        • 272

        #4
        Use flare nut wrenches.

        What are the symptoms of your fuel issue?
        Tom Rowe

        Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
        in places even more inaccessible.

        62 88 reg
        67 NADA x2
        74 Air Portable - The Antichrist (tag 6A666)
        95 D1 - R380
        95 D90 - R380
        97 D1 - ZF

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