Diff Lock stuck

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  • paddyb
    replied
    help flange nut on front drive shaft and rear brake drum 95 transfer case disco

    has any one removed the flange nut on front of transfer case or flange nut on rear brake drum of 1995 disco. the picture in this forum shows nut on front drive shaft flange. thanks

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  • nosivad_bor
    replied
    Some of you might find this helpful if you want to lubricate the CDL but don't know what it takes to get to it.

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  • Ben Rover
    replied
    Go ahead and drill out the rivets and take the rubber cover off properly. There's another cover that you'll probably wanna remove in there and a cheap little gasket you can replace for about 2$ ( RN part http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-3...top-lt230.aspx )

    The rivets are 3/16" diameter if I remember correctly.

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  • archerjc
    replied
    Not shifting into low gear

    Question about the transfer case. I have a 1995 disco I and I can't get it into low gear. I took the top cover off the shifter and it has a rubber boot over the shifter. Can I cut a hole in the rubber and spray with pb buster that way or do i need to take the console out an do it properly?

    Thanks,

    Chris Archer
    1995 disco I

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  • Ben Rover
    replied
    Long story short, '97 disco, seized diff lock, etc etc.

    Took the little guy apart, now in the process of taking the rust off the parts. Luckily it seems the diff lock works fine when applied manualy.

    The problem I have is that I can't figure out what drives the diff lock. The shaft with the circular ring that holds the lever doesn't seem to move in or out, even with no more rust and well greased. I can't see a leverage point that would cause the diff lock to engage and disengage.

    How does this bloody thing work?!!?

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  • J!m
    replied
    Driving the newer transfer boxes (any with a diff in them) will be quickly destroyed when driven with either prop shaft removed, and the diff locked (if it's not locked, it won't move the truck).

    Get thet box apart and figure out what is wrong with it, or just order a re-built unit now, since you already had a problem, and likely made it much worse driving on it...

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  • shireyd
    replied
    do you have a picture or view of the transfer case 95 d1,and thanks for your reply a few weeks ago.

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  • shireyd
    replied
    we talked about 3 weeks ago. my 95 d1 we just bought is haveing trouble when turning as if in lock but i have the case unlocked .what else could it be ? i've been under it lubed the linkage and so on .we now have front dr shaft out to drive .also when shaft was in ,it would wind up then sort of pop thats not normal i know

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  • IIA Lightweight
    replied
    Been there done that

    Great job on everyones part.
    I do believe you forgot to send an offering to the "rover gods" it always help.
    david

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  • TSR53
    replied
    Note: I've edited my original post in this thread on page 1 with the above information. Also, made it a sticky for reference.

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  • TSR53
    replied
    Here's the Discovery I transfercase illustration.

    As you can see, the diff lock mechanism is comprised of a lot of little parts that require lubrication and operation to keep in top condition. Unfortunately, to do the job properly, you will need to open 'er up and get after it...

    Hope this helps, all the parts are listed below in case you happen to break something or might possibly need replacement.

    18. RND640 LINK ARM - DIFF LOCK LT230
    19. RND641 CLIP - CLEVIS PIN TSFR LVR LT230T
    20. RND642 RETAINING CLIP
    21. RND643 CLEVIS PIN - TRANSFER LEVER LT230T
    22. RND644 RETAINER CLIP - CLEVIS PIN
    23. RND642 RETAINING CLIP
    24. RND645 PIVOT PIN - DIFF LOCK ROD
    25. RND646 LINK ROD - TRANSFER BOX LT230
    26. RND647 CLEVIS - TRANSFER LINKAGE LT 230
    27. RND648 BUSH - GEAR SHAFT LT230
    28. RNE157 NUT - M8
    29. RNE450 NUT - M8
    30. RNE469 NYLOC NUT - M8
    31. RND649 LINK CONNECTING - LT230
    32. RND650 GASKET - GEAR CHANGER LT85
    33. RND651 SPRING PIN - TRANSFER LINK
    34. RND456 WASHER - FLAT 8MM I.D. (used in many other places...)
    35. RND652 HOUSING - DIFF LOCK SELECTOR LT230
    36. RND653 O-RING TRANSFER CASE
    37. RND654 O-RING TRANSFER CASE
    38. RND651 SPRING PIN - TRANSFER LINK
    --- RND655 CLIP
    39. RND656 SWITCH - DIFF LOCK/REVERSE
    40. RND657 NUT (again, used in many other places...)
    41. RND658 GROMMET - TRANSFER LEVER - LT230
    42. RND659 GASKET - TRANSFER LEVER TOP LT230
    43. RND660 BALL END SEAT - TRANSFER
    44. RND661 CLEVIS PIN
    45. RND662 CLEVIS PIN
    46. RNH313 CLIP - COUNTERSHAFT RETAIN DISCOVERY I
    Last edited by TSR53; 03-26-2007, 10:15 AM.

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  • landrover77
    replied
    Dif lock stuck

    My only other question here is (on a 95 disco)
    how much "elbow grease" can I use to try and shift my dif.
    before I risk snapping/breaking something in there.

    My thinking is that it is simply sticking and I can loosen it manually
    without opening things up. I recall it being stuck but eventually shifting a couple years ago.
    And I'm hoping that still can work?

    Or should I avoid doing the above idea due to the probability that the grease that keeps things moving in there,
    is dried, or non - existent? Bringing an inevitable need to open up and grease.

    thanks!
    Last edited by landrover77; 03-25-2007, 07:01 PM.

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  • Buddy
    replied
    Originally posted by landrover77
    I got a 1995 Disco and the Diff lock will work as follows:
    I put it in Neutral and move the diff lock lever to the left and it goes over
    fine. The diif lock dash light appears as it should.
    I cannot shift it any more than that though.
    The question I have is, is this sufficient to make a difference in the
    performance of my disco, and is it worth it to get the console off and work on the greasing of it. Or even still going to the dealership
    (I know, I know the dealer sucks the money like a ***** sucks cock)
    But is it worth taking these steps? thanks.
    I'm not sure what you mean by it will not go any farther once the light comes on your diff lock is engaged. Or do you mean it won't shift out of Neutral? There are two different functions in the Lever
    1. Shift from High to Neutral to Low range.
    2. Engage and Disengage the Diff Lock.

    You should be able to engage and disengage the diff lock in any position high, low and neutral. There are no shift gates for the diff lock. If it does not allow you to move it back and forth between diff locked and unlocked then I would wager something in the linkage is buggered up and it's not seized.

    My personal opinion is stay away from the Dealer. Not only do they charge you a fortune but they mostly try and make you fix things you don't need/want fixed. Find yourself an independent mechanic who is well versed in Rovers if you don't like doing your own work but the best bet for a Rover owner is to do their own work.

    Leave a comment:


  • landrover77
    replied
    Diff Lock stuck

    I got a 1995 Disco and the Diff lock will work as follows:
    I put it in Neutral and move the diff lock lever to the left and it goes over
    fine. The diif lock dash light appears as it should.
    I cannot shift it any more than that though.
    The question I have is, is this sufficient to make a difference in the
    performance of my disco, and is it worth it to get the console off and work on the greasing of it. Or even still going to the dealership
    (I know, I know the dealer sucks the money like a ***** sucks cock)
    But is it worth taking these steps? thanks.

    Leave a comment:


  • landi41
    replied
    Originally posted by sirloincloth

    Seems like a pretty crappy design.
    I think the design is OK, its the lack of any notes in the handbook suggesting that the diff lock be engaged on a fairly regular basis to ensure it won't seize.......

    Leave a comment:

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