Won't Start

[bkreutz]

Sounds like your diagnosis is making progress. Before I would change the IAC I would clean it out with some carb cleaner. Take both rubber hoses off and then squirt the cleaner in from both sides. also make sure there are no damaged wires at the electrical connector for the IAC (like mouse chew marks, don't laugh, seen that more times than you would think, apparently rodents like the taste of wire insulation) If none of this works then my next step would be replacing the IAC. When you pinched off the valve and the symptoms disappeared you confirmed the source of the condition.

Thanks again guys. Last evening I went over everything that I can see and could not find any obvious intake leak. Also confirmed that the plate is closing. I removed the IAC for inspection but not really sure what position valve should be in...the valve itself moves freely however it is not in the closed position (should it be?). I cleaned it up and re-installed but there was no change, starts & idles fine, hit the gas and the rpms rise w/o returning to normal. Gale, I did your air hose squeeze test with the engine stuck on high rpm and sure enough the rpms dropped down to normal idle. If your theory is correct it looks like I need a new IAC wouldn't you say?

PJ, if your still out there, how are you making out getting your started?

[parrie]

Thanks Gale. I would never laugh at mouse chew marks, little rascles are the enemy! Did a complete inspection of the IAC and cleaned it up but no go. Before I spend the +/-$200 on a new one I'm gonna see if I can pick-up a $30 used one of ebay. I'll post the results. Thanks again!

[bkreutz]

I second the idea about used parts. One other thing to test though, try unplugging the IAC and see if the symptoms are still there. Might be something in the ECU (I doubt it but I tend to over test things unless I have a good test part to throw on quickly)

[pjwells]

Parrie, It's been a crazy couple of days here. I still havent had time to really dig into my list of issues to check but I've got a light week so we'll see. One thing that's concerning me, in addition to it not starting, is that my heater and a/c don't work and my sunroofs. These have been an issue for a few months now. When I noticed the a/c not working I tried swapping the relays and fuses but still no go. I ran a direct current to the blower motor and it worked fine. As the blower doesn't work on the highest setting it's not the resistor pack, so I don't really know what else to check with that system. As for the sunroofs, I also swapped out relays for that and it didn't work, inspected the switches and they seemed fine, so my next item to check is the under-bonnet fuse box to make sure there isn't any corrosive damage. I'm at a loss for why all these have happened. I'm really hoping it's not a huge electrical system failure. I'm not the most savvy at checking these issues, but my buddy has been helping me tremendously so I'm learning a lot. Any advise is greatly appreciated.

Could all these issues be related?

[bkreutz]

Parrie, It's been a crazy couple of days here. I still havent had time to really dig into my list of issues to check but I've got a light week so we'll see. One thing that's concerning me, in addition to it not starting, is that my heater and a/c don't work and my sunroofs. These have been an issue for a few months now. When I noticed the a/c not working I tried swapping the relays and fuses but still no go. I ran a direct current to the blower motor and it worked fine. As the blower doesn't work on the highest setting it's not the resistor pack, so I don't really know what else to check with that system. As for the sunroofs, I also swapped out relays for that and it didn't work, inspected the switches and they seemed fine, so my next item to check is the under-bonnet fuse box to make sure there isn't any corrosive damage. I'm at a loss for why all these have happened. I'm really hoping it's not a huge electrical system failure. I'm not the most savvy at checking these issues, but my buddy has been helping me tremendously so I'm learning a lot. Any advise is greatly appreciated.

Could all these issues be related?

It's possible that you could have a leak in the windshield that's getting into the Body Control Unit, the BCU is located to the right of the glovebox and it's a common problem where water gets in there, corrodes connectors and causes all kinds of problems. If you haven't got a factory shop manual, here's a link to a site with a free download of the RAVE manual (factory shop manual, it's what the dealer techs(like I used to be before retirement) use. http://www.landroverresource.com/

[pjwells]

bkreutz, thanks! It was reccommended I check the under-bonnet fuse panel for corrosion, but I didn't know to check for the BCU. I will hopefully have time to check tomorrow and will update.

[parrie]

Hey PJ, not sure how much advise I can give when it comes to the electronics on these beasts. I have heard of the leaky window/door issue affecting the BCU that Gale mentions but I've never actually seen one in the flesh. I'm not sure if this alone would be causing the starting issue but it certainly could be affecting the other items if it has taken on water & corroded. Were you able to get a scanner and check for failure codes?

I'm dead in the water on mine until my IAC valve shows up...fingers crossed.

[pjwells]

Well I just removed the BCU and there's no apparent water damage or corrosion, could the BCU simply fault for no reason?

[pjwells]

BKreutz, I checked the BCU, no corosion or apparent damage that I can see. I checked the fuel pump, and it seems to be working fine (spat fuel everywhere). My buddy thought "what the hell" and swapped a few of the relays around and it started up just fine...until...about an hour later when we tried starting it and it wouldn't start. I have a couple of new relays on order (4-prong yellow) so I'll pop those in for the fuel pump and see. As an aside, my buddy's dad thought to check all the fuses with a tool he has (lights up when it completes the circuit), and two of my fuses in the interior fuse box aren't working, and the new ones we put in aren't either. I wonder if this could mean a fault with the fuse box itself. Also, he checked the multiplug for the blower motor, and with the same tool it didn't light up, so I'm thinking it's not getting juice (my a/c hasn't worked for a while, nor has the sunroofs). I ran a code reader on the computer and it doesn't seem to be compatible with LR's, and none of the local shops have a reader that's compatible. What else can I check? Thanks for your help, and sorry for such a long post.

[bkreutz]

Not all the fuses in the fusebox are powered all the time so that test may not mean anything is actually wrong. Some circuits only power up when the appropriate switch is activated. Generic OBDII code readers will only read the emission codes as required by DOT (so a regular scanner should be able to access things like misfires, 02 sensors, and things like that). The rest of the systems (ABS, SLS, SRS, Climate Control) have proprietary software that require special scanners to access them. Have you looked through the RAVE manual that I gave a link to in an earlier post? There's lots of stuff in there (including wiring diagrams) . Good luck.

[pjwells]

The scanner we used was OBDII, so good to know. I'll look into a better scanner and will check with the dealer, they may be willing to read the codes for me at no charge, they've helped me out with info and advice before. I did look thru the RAVE manual, quite a lengthy read, and it does have great info. It's a little over my head at times, but I'm getting there. It definitely helps. I'm gonna look into the wiring first, trace it all and make sure everything looks ok, as long as I can get it to start I'll be able to get over to the dealer for the codes. Thanks.