get'n toy axles?

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  • scott
    Overdrive
    • Oct 2006
    • 1226

    get'n toy axles?

    if you swap out the axles on a series for some off a toy tundra to get beefier and disc brakes, can you get 'em to run with a standard series 16" wheel?
    '64 Series IIA 88 Canvas Tilt
    '68 Series IIA RHD Ambulance
    '76 Spitfire 1500
    '07 LR3 (Series Recovery Vehicle)
  • CliftonRover
    3rd Gear
    • Mar 2007
    • 351

    #2
    the toy swap is a good option but only certain models will work, and you might be better off going to toyota wheels. You need to check that the pumkin in the front will clear the leaf springs. You will also need to weld on new spring perches.

    Comment

    • I Leak Oil
      Overdrive
      • Nov 2006
      • 1796

      #3
      Tundra doesn't have a SFA does it? Rover would be a little odd with IFS. Rear has a center diff. You can make a rover wheel fit at a price I suppose.
      Jason
      "Clubs are for Chumps" Club president

      Comment

      • scott
        Overdrive
        • Oct 2006
        • 1226

        #4
        i'm not in love w/ the tundra axles. didn't know about the ifs and center rear diff. i was just thinking they'd be 1 tons. so i guess the tocomas or the fjs are the ones to look at. toy wheel would be a drag as i like the idea of the sankey and my 88 all having the same wheels, lots of spares that way. changing spring perches are no problem. and a slightly wider stance would be nice, this upgrade is planned for an ambulance.
        '64 Series IIA 88 Canvas Tilt
        '68 Series IIA RHD Ambulance
        '76 Spitfire 1500
        '07 LR3 (Series Recovery Vehicle)

        Comment

        • CliftonRover
          3rd Gear
          • Mar 2007
          • 351

          #5
          many people use fj40, fj60, or fzj80 axles the last of which are the best. The fzj80 axles often come with e-lockers.

          Comment

          • graniterover
            1st Gear
            • Oct 2006
            • 167

            #6
            Use dana 44's - rear from a wagoneer, it's already offset. Or just us a sals.

            Comment

            • yorker
              Overdrive
              • Nov 2006
              • 1635

              #7
              Easiest would be a set of FJ40,45,55 axles, the later ones are better- ca 1978 and later would get you front discs and an easy swap to rear discs. 6 lug wheels are a dime a dzen so there isnt' amuch of an advantage to running the rover bolt battern aside fromt he ability to use a common wheel with a Sankey or other Land Rover. All these narrow TLC axles are 4.11 R&P.

              FJ60 &62 are a touch wider, have front disc brakes, FJ60's are 3.7 R&P ratio(IIRC) and FJ62s are 4.11. There are other differences between FJ60's and FJ62s but nothing that should be insurmountable in a swap under a Rover.

              FJ80 diffs can be had with F+R E lockers. they are 4.10 ratio diffs- they are also wider than any of the earlier diffs. IIRC they are F+R Discs.

              All of these have front CVs(aka Birfields) rather than U joints. They can be upgraded with stronger CVs from Bobby Long too though I'd have to say the stock ones are pretty robust, more or less. If it were me I'd run the stock CVs and upgrade only when and if I found myself breaking them.
              1965 SIIa 88",1975 Ex-MOD 109/Ambulance, 1989 RRC, blah, blah, blah...

              Land Rover UK Forums

              Comment

              • CliftonRover
                3rd Gear
                • Mar 2007
                • 351

                #8
                good info there, also there are many more gear choices avalible for the toy axles than the rover.

                Comment

                • msggunny
                  5th Gear
                  • Jan 2007
                  • 621

                  #9
                  Good info on it:



                  If i had found FJ40 axles for the same deal as the FJ60's i have now i would have gone with them instead. One benefit is a bit wider track with the 60's though.
                  First but gone: 91 3 door Disco "White Rhino"
                  77 Series III 88 ex MoD "Shongololo"
                  Gone and I miss her: 97 D1 5 speed
                  04 DII
                  08 D3 (LR3)

                  Comment

                  • yorker
                    Overdrive
                    • Nov 2006
                    • 1635

                    #10
                    fj40-55 series axles are essentially the same width as Land Rover axles which is nice- they lack front discs up to 1978 though whereas all FJ60s have front discs.

                    To be perfectly honest though even the Toyota drum brakes aren't that bad IMHO. Id say they are as good or better than LR drums- at least on a SWB.

                    fwiw I was trying to sort out the differences between fj60 and fj62 axles a while back and ran across this discussion:
                    Is this a good axle? Good deal? 82' toyota FJ60 solid front axle....everything is exactly the same as the 79'-85' toyota pickup axle, but with the FJ axle, you dont need spacers for a conversion. the third member is the stronger 9.5" ring gear, and has stronger inner and outer axle...



                    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

                    The 62 front axle also has more caster built in due to the steeper driveline caused by the automatic.

                    In some cases, a cut and turn is not necessary when going with a SOA using a 62 axle.
                    I just bought a set of FJ62 axles for my FJ40 and noticed that there is an extra gusset under the front axle. Are ther any other differances between the two. I may just rebuild them and put them under my 60.
                    1965 SIIa 88",1975 Ex-MOD 109/Ambulance, 1989 RRC, blah, blah, blah...

                    Land Rover UK Forums

                    Comment

                    • scott
                      Overdrive
                      • Oct 2006
                      • 1226

                      #11
                      i'm going to go w/ some seriestrek 24 splines and a soft locker. they should hold up under the awesome power of a 200 tdi which i'm still look'n for
                      '64 Series IIA 88 Canvas Tilt
                      '68 Series IIA RHD Ambulance
                      '76 Spitfire 1500
                      '07 LR3 (Series Recovery Vehicle)

                      Comment

                      • Mojave Rover
                        Low Range
                        • Feb 2008
                        • 23

                        #12
                        Originally posted by scott
                        i'm going to go w/ some seriestrek 24 splines and a soft locker. they should hold up under the awesome power of a 200 tdi which i'm still look'n for
                        Import one. Dollar strong against the pound at the moment ($1.50 as of today). I imported a rebuilt Defender 200tdi with all ancillaries sitting in the garage and plan on rebuilding over the next three to four months. Waiting for Spring to get chassis galvanized and off to the races. Also imported a new Ashcroft short r380 to mate up to it.

                        As for axles, stick with Rover. Discos are cheap. Currently having a set from a '96 welded at the moment to handle parabolics. All of the coil stuff removed and adding new spring seats. Dif. ratio not the same, but nothing's perfect... It'll be nice to have disk brakes.

                        Comment

                        • yorker
                          Overdrive
                          • Nov 2006
                          • 1635

                          #13
                          Originally posted by scott
                          i'm going to go w/ some seriestrek 24 splines and a soft locker. they should hold up under the awesome power of a 200 tdi which i'm still look'n for

                          This is probably the best and easiest way to go but keep in mind:

                          With the 200 tdi you can produce decent torque at low speeds plus it is multiplied at the wheels by the drivetrain. Remember the Disco and RRC were full time 4wd so they could get away with smaller axles because the stress was distributed front and rear most of the time. With a series you are putting that stress through the rear axle 95% of the time. With the weight of a 109 ambulance that may or may not work well depending what you plan to do. A Detroit will help make up the weakness of the Rover 2 pin carrier but remember you are still running around in 2wd in a 3/4 ton truck with an axle barely bigger than a Dana 30. Discovery GVW ~6000lbs




                          Diesel engines have always been a bit of a weak spot in the 'Series' Land Rover range. The story started in 1957 with the first 2 litre diesel, available in the last of the Series 1s and the first Series 2s. This had reliability problems and was a little underpowered even by late Fifties standards, so it was given a major reworking in 1961. The resulting 'two and a quarter' (2286cc engine) proved remarkably long-lived, but performance was still a little marginal. I have always found these engines a little lacking in low end grunt. They have to be revved quite hard to make good progress, and when treated this way they often sound as though they are about to blow up. (Sometimes they do.) Hang a heavy trailer on the back of a two and a quarter diesel Landie, and you will find yourself being overtaken by old men on bicycles.
                          Over the years very many different diesel engines have found their way into Series Land Rovers to overcome this problem. Some are very good, others less so. But they all suffer from one of two problems - long term parts availability worries (especially with the Japanese engines), or the need to hack the vehicle about, cut holes in the bulkhead, weld new brackets onto the chassis etc to make the engine fit. Most recently the Perkins Prima turbodiesel (ex Austin Montego) has been very popular and successful: but old Montegos are getting hard to find, and now something new is needed. Enter the 200Di....
                          What is a 200Di?
                          Put simply, it is a Land Rover Discovery 200TDi engine, downrated by removing the turbocharger and intercooler. The Mk1 Discovery sold in very large numbers from 1989-94, and many of these vehicles are now reaching the end of their life. They have a reputation for body rot, and the early ones are now reaching the stage where they are not worth spending money on. The 200TDi is a very strong, durable engine, and with all those Discos being broken you should be able to pick up a good sound engine complete with ancillaries for no more than £500.
                          Why remove the turbo?
                          1. It makes installing the engine in a Series Land Rover much easier. You don't need the full-width radiator with oil cooler and intercooler, you can use the standard Series radiator instead. You don't need a custom-made exhaust system, just a Series exhaust manifold and some clamps that you can make yourself. You don't need to be able to weld, or have access to a huge pile of spare parts.
                          2. With the turbo removed, the engine will be very understressed. It is designed to cope with the high temperatures and pressures of a turbo installation, and even in turbo form these engines are good for 250k miles or more. In non-turbo form they should last just about forever.
                          3. Downrating the engine will also give the transmission an easier time. A Disco 200TDi knocks out 111 bhp and huge amounts of low end torque - far more than a Series gearbox and rear axle were designed to cope with.
                          4. You can't use the extra power in normal conditions anyway. The brakes, suspension and steering on a Series vehicle are just not up to driving at the kind of speeds that a TDi is capable of. If you want to be able to cruise at 80mph, a Series vehicle is not the right vehicle for the job. If you are towing heavy trailers up steep hills, then the turbo will definitely make a difference, but unless you are careful with your right foot you will spend a lot of time replacing transmissions, half-shafts and diffs.
                          The hardest part of a 200TDi into Series conversion is the plumbing: custom exhaust, intercooler, and either sourcing a separate oil cooler or modifying the radiator panel to take the Discovery radiator. So even if you are planning a full-fat TDi installation, the '200Di' route allows you to do the conversion in stages. If you prepare the new engine before you start taking the old one out, you should easily do the transplant in a weekend and get the vehicle up and running. Then you can come back to it later and do the radiator, oil cooler, intercooler and finally the turbo and exhaust as separate projects.
                          What is it like to drive?
                          I have not yet put a 200Di conversion on a rolling road, but I reckon it is putting out around 75bhp - around the same as a healthy petrol Series 2 or 3. It feels as though it has far more low end torque than any of the old Series engines, and will happily accelerate uphill from as little as 30 mph in top gear with the overdrive engaged. Performance is lively for an old Series Landie, but not quick enough to overwhelm the standard brakes and suspension. There is more than enough power for towing - my 200Di converted Series 3 will happily tow a 2 tonne trailer at 55 mph on the motorway, dropping to around 45 on long hills. Fuel consumption is around 35 mpg in normal use, dipping slightly below 30 when towing.
                          One other good thing about the 200Di engine is that it has a Bosch injection pump which should cope happily with running on vegetable oil - unlike the Lucas DPA pump on older Land Rover engines. I have not yet tried the vegetable oil route myself, but I know someone who has been running a Discovery on a 50:50 mix of diesel and vegetable oil for some time now with no problems.
                          Any disadvantages?
                          The 200Di is a direct-injection diesel, and it is significantly noisier than the old two and a quarter. If you fit one of these engines to a Series vehicle you really need to think about soundproofing - floors, transmission tunnel, bulkhead and ideally the underside of the bonnet as well. There is also a fair amount of vibration - the Discovery has absolutely huge engine mounts to soak up the vibes, but on standard Series diesel mounts you will find that anything in the vehicle that can rattle, will. If you want to cruise at a reasonable speed you will need an overdrive or high ratio transfer box - even then, my Series 3 (on 205R16 tyres) sounds very 'busy' above 60mph, and could really do with slightly higher gearing.
                          How easy is it to convert to 200Di power?
                          1965 SIIa 88",1975 Ex-MOD 109/Ambulance, 1989 RRC, blah, blah, blah...

                          Land Rover UK Forums

                          Comment

                          • yorker
                            Overdrive
                            • Nov 2006
                            • 1635

                            #14
                            Originally posted by Mojave Rover

                            As for axles, stick with Rover. Discos are cheap. Currently having a set from a '96 welded at the moment to handle parabolics. All of the coil stuff removed and adding new spring seats. Dif. ratio not the same, but nothing's perfect... It'll be nice to have disk brakes.
                            For the work involved with swapping in Discovery axles people might as well use FZJ-80 axles. You'll get 4.10 R+P ratios, better disc brakes all around, stronger diffs, stronger CV by far, and front and rear electric diiff locks.



                            Prices aren't bad on 4340 axle shafts with a lifetime warrantee either:
                            1965 SIIa 88",1975 Ex-MOD 109/Ambulance, 1989 RRC, blah, blah, blah...

                            Land Rover UK Forums

                            Comment

                            • scott
                              Overdrive
                              • Oct 2006
                              • 1226

                              #15
                              york

                              i've read that bit on the 200di before. good stuff. but i was thinking w/ a rhd the plumbing would be less of a headache. i can cut and weld and know of a custom exhaust guy who's good and inexspensive.

                              what do you know of the bosch vs lr injector pumps?

                              when i'm all done i want a camper that looks cool (no problem it's a series) cruises at 65 to 70, won't snap a half shaft in the field and smells like french fries
                              '64 Series IIA 88 Canvas Tilt
                              '68 Series IIA RHD Ambulance
                              '76 Spitfire 1500
                              '07 LR3 (Series Recovery Vehicle)

                              Comment

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