Rover Frame Condition Opinion

[achtung]

I am thinking about going to look at Series Rover that starts and runs but needs frame and bulkhead work. These are the only shots that I got of the frame and I was wondering given what you all know about frame rot if the rear spring shackle mounts are this far gone what is the chance that the rest of the frame is salvagable. I know I'm soliciting speculation but what do you think I can expect to see?

[I Leak Oil]

Rear cross members are available with the extensions but in all reality if they are that bad the chances are the rest of the frame is pretty bad also.

[SafeAirOne]

The photos you show will likely be typical of the rest of the chassis, I'm afraid.

[Partsman]

Speculation

Well since we're from the same neck of the woods, I'll comment, that frame has probably seen many seasons of salt, so you could expect quite a bit more of what you see in those pics. That doesn't necessarily mean that you can't salvage what's left of the frame, but you should expect a lot of work ahead of you.

[achtung]

That is what I suspected. It tough to find a Rover project that would be a cost effective endeavor. Most of the time if you factor in what a frame and bulkhead costs plus the cost of the project you should have just bought a decent truck and been done with it. The hunt continues. If anyone has any leads on a decent Series project shoot me an email.

[Partsman]

It all depends on what your budget is...I bought mine from down south in Georgia, paid only 4k for it and $600 for shipping back here to Massachusetts. It still has the original chassis in great shape (no rust) and it runs good. You could try looking at http://www.landroverranch.com/ they're located in New Mexico, What you buy from them is likely to be in a low rust condition, then you'd mostly be dealing with mechanics. IE: engine, tranny, brakes etc. It would certainly be a cheaper project than you're likely to find up here in New England.

[achtung]

It all depends on what your budget is...I bought mine from down south in Georgia, paid only 4k for it and $600 for shipping back here to Massachusetts. It still has the original chassis in great shape (no rust) and it runs good. You could try looking at http://www.landroverranch.com/ they're located in New Mexico, What you buy from them is likely to be in a low rust condition, then you'd mostly be dealing with mechanics. IE: engine, tranny, brakes etc. It would certainly be a cheaper project than you're likely to find up here in New England.

Good tip. Thanks, I will do that.

[o2batsea]

I would buy that thing for parts. Maybe the steel bits are no good, but there's plenty more valuable stuff there.

[cedryck]

replace,

it's easy, replace that rusted chassis, if you have that much rust in that spot then the rest will be in the same shape,

[Terrys]

I have replaced 4 rear crossmembers with the ones with rear spring hangers and extensions. In each case, when cutting the old frame off, at the requisite spot, the frame was structurally sound if not near original. Look the rest of it over carefully, especially the front frame horns, bulkhead outriggers, and transmission crossmember. If that all appears sound, give the frame a good hammer check from about 14" forward of the rear crossmember, you may find it is sound.
My walk-away-criteria is bulkhead condition, more so than frame condition.

[achtung]

Interesting. I figured the bulkhead work would be easier than frame work. What is your reasoning for this?

I had also considered buying this truck for parts but I have limited space and don't want to fill it up with junk.

I have replaced 4 rear crossmembers with the ones with rear spring hangers and extensions. In each case, when cutting the old frame off, at the requisite spot, the frame was structurally sound if not near original. Look the rest of it over carefully, especially the front frame horns, bulkhead outriggers, and transmission crossmember. If that all appears sound, give the frame a good hammer check from about 14" forward of the rear crossmember, you may find it is sound.
My walk-away-criteria is bulkhead condition, more so than frame condition.

[Terrys]

Interesting. I figured the bulkhead work would be easier than frame work. What is your reasoning for this?

Simple, There is not much easy about bulkhead repair. A rear crossmember is a one day job.

[Billy5]

From the pictures, I would have to agree with what is being offered here. Here is my 2c. In the picture it looks like remnants of duct tape ( fabric looking item by the spring perch). This makes me wonder about other repairs that may not so readily apparent. I am new to the Rover club as well. When I went looking for mine the criteria was the following: Clean as possible with little to no modifications. I can deal with replacing and repairing stock/original items, but once someone goes adding etc..it can be a pain chasing things when failures pop up. As far as cost goes. First question would be how handy are you, what tools to you have or at least available to you. This is a big factor in my opinion. I paid 10k for mine. Was it overpriced? Not sure, considering zero rust issues anywhere, 99% stock/ original as far as drivetrain goes, and was well taken care of and not roaded alot ( read beaten ). I bought it, did some electrical repairs ( this forum helped greatly with that) and been driving it everyday since. So lets say I found one for less, say 4k. Frame work can be at least 1k depending unless you need new then its 2500. Up to 6k. How is the wiring? Just the headache alone is expensive find the shorts or replacing old wiring. Add in 500 for that. How are the tires? If shot and depending on what you want add at least 150 each. Now we are at 7k. See where this is going? Pick what you can live with or a priority. For me cosmetics didnt matter as I am a painter by trade. I could do frame work to, but I dont have a welder etc. Thats my advice anyway from a newbie..

[siii8873]

I sent you a PM

[Bostonian1976]

How much do you want to spend? I could be convinced to sell mine