New to the world

[o2batsea]

Eventually you will rebuild or repair just about every part on the vehicle.

[jac04]

I'm in East Granby, CT. Not too close to Boston, but I've tinkered around a little with Rovers and I'd be willing to help out with repairs if you stop by. PM me if interested.

[primerib]

Thanks a lot guys!

I have started down the road to repairing the master cylinder and light. no luck with either yet.. But, I stopped the squeaky fan belt! So, the neighbors are a bit more pleased!

I was looking at the master cylinder, and I have a power booster to my brakes. So two reservoirs, one for my brakes and one for my clutch master...does that mean I have a series III clutch master cylinder? and still a series two slave? I am about to order the parts. a Master and a Slave. does anyone recommend that I get any additional parts that I will most likely have to replace along the way?

Also someone recommended the green bible. Is that:

Land Rover 2/2A/3 1959-83 Owners Workshop Manual (Autobook Series of Workshop Manuals)

or a different one?

Thanks again guy! pleased to meet you all.

Also, I discovered that i have a pinion seal leak..Is that a relatively light undertaking or is that a tricky one?

Thanks for the help!

[sizod]

A bit of a trek from Bean town but Kane Motor Car in Kingstown RI is the only place I let touch my truck and only when its too cold for me to work outside on it.

http://www.kanemotorcar.com/

[stomper]

Make sure you order a flex hose for the clutch system, it will usually break when you try and unscrew it from the slave. Have a close look at the hard line from the master to the flex hose. if it looks solid, you are fine, but if there is any rust or questionable look to it, you may as well replace it and be done with it. it will make it much easier to tighten new fittings than the old ones if it is rusted.

[TedW]

Make sure you order a flex hose for the clutch system, it will usually break when you try and unscrew it from the slave. Have a close look at the hard line from the master to the flex hose. if it looks solid, you are fine, but if there is any rust or questionable look to it, you may as well replace it and be done with it. it will make it much easier to tighten new fittings than the old ones if it is rusted.

X2 on the flex hose. They swell on the inside over time, restricting flow. Cheap insurance.

[jac04]

The pinion seal could be fairly simple. It may just be the seal. If that's the case, unbolt the driveshaft from the pinion flange, remove the pinion flange, R&R the seal and put it all back together. The seal is usually a PITA to remove. Be careful not to damage anything when prying it put.
Unfortunately, the pinion flange is usually grooved as well. You can replace the pinion flange or install a Speedi-Sleeve (SKF #99174 is what I used) on your existing one.

Here are the manuals you want:

[TedW]

Here are the manuals you want:

IMHO you absolutely need the green bibles shown above. However, I have also had great luck with the Haynes manual for Series Rovers - I actually use it more than anything. It's sort of a Cliff's Notes of the green bibles.

Just my $0.02

[primerib]

Cool! Many thanks again! I have the bibles/more parts in the mail. I have been reading posts on master cylinder overhaul. Thanks for the list of additional parts. I had a feeling something might break! and I would like to get it all done at once...if possible! I will let you know how it goes. If you think of anything else that might be handy, that advice will go along way as well!

I was also thinking of replacing the slave at the same time (since the line will be drained). It seems to be ok as of now is there any point in replacing it now or do they tend to last longer than the master? also, if I should replace that as well, any additional parts you recommend ordering that will most likely break on that end?

thanks guys!

[primerib]

Oh and one more thought on the flex hose. There is one for a series IIa late model, and one for a series III. What is the difference? I mentioned earlier that I think that I have a series III clutch master cylinder ( due to the brake power boost and the two separate reservoirs). But I think the Slave is a IIa model (if that is possible) Would I be better off getting the series III flex?

[stomper]

get under the truck and look at the slave cylinder. if it is vertical, it is a series II, horizonal, it is a series III. The diference in the flex pipes it the additional length to reach the series III slave location I believe.

You will find to do the job correctly, you need to remove the floor boards and the tunnel cover. you may want to swing by the hardware store and pick up a few nuts and bolts in case the current ones are seized, and perhaps a few of the little clip on things that the screws thread into. Sorry, I don't know the correct name for these, but they are good to have in the tool kit in the garage for jobs like these.