Differential question(s) - advice please...

[Nanoose]

I've got a 1955 Series 1, 86" as my daily driver. It has the usual things that make life interesting but I've been pretty fortunate thus far in avoiding major fixes - but I think that's about to change.

I check and change fluids pretty religiously. When coming home from work one evening I heard a bit more drive train whine than I'm used to (nothing extreme) so crawled under today to take a look. I drained and replaced the front diff and all was ok. Then looked at the rear. Uh-oh. Steady drip. At first I thought it was from the drain plug but then I noticed this...It looks like something has gone through the case from the inside.





I opened the drain plug and very little came out but these two little pieces fell out too. I'm guessing this isn't a good sign ?




Here's a front shot of the diff. - can anyone identify it off the top of their head? Yes, I'm being lazy...



Questions:

1.) Is rebuilding this difficult, am I better off just taking it to a shop?
2.) Is it better to replace the diff with something else, if so, what?
3.) Can the case simply be welded (assuming I can fix the innards)?

Advice is always appreciated!

Many thanks,

Dave

[westcoastkevin]

Take the diff out and get a look at it. It is all just speculating until then.
Yes, the case can be welded.
The bits might be bits of a bearing cage or bits of a gear. It is hard to say from the pic.
A secondhand diff will probably be the cheapest way out but you want to get yours out first. A shop will take $750 from you just for mentioning the word diff.
Good Luck.

[mearstrae]

Looks like the standard LR diff. You'll need to drop the drive shaft, pull the axles and then remove the diff to see how much damage has been done. It's a moot point as to what the metal bits are. The housing should be weldable by a competent shop. Depending on the damage to the gears and housing, it may be a do-it-yourself job. But one can always source a replacement center section and meerly change it out, once the gear ratio is double checked.

'95 R.R. Classic LWB
'76 Series III Hybrid 109
'70 Rover 3500S

[gudjeon]

If not worried about originality, a secondhand unit can be had for cheaper than rebuilding. I did that getting a good ser3 diff from Roverworks for the rear of my ser1. Also,there is good epoxy weld kits for leky cases, just made for that very job. usually from heavy duty equipment shops.

[Nanoose]

Thanks!

Great advice. Looks like I'll be taking things apart tomorrow. I'll keep you posted and take pictures...

Dave

[I Leak Oil]

There are tow diffs for sale on the Guns and Rovers board right now. If you only get one, get the front. They usually have less wear. (yes it will fit the rear)

[antichrist]

Just a Series diff. The main difference between it and later ones is the early ones like yours used a separate retainer for the oil seal (the part with the 6 bolts at the pinion/propshaft).
IIRC, they use the same ring and pinion, though the pinion bearings are different.

[rwollschlager]

There are tow diffs for sale on the Guns and Rovers board right now. If you only get one, get the front. They usually have less wear. (yes it will fit the rear)

how would you go about filling it up? on my 88 and 109 the front axle has a fill plug in the axle casing itself where as the rear axle fill plug is in the differential.

[I Leak Oil]

My front diff has the fill plug just like the rear, in the pumpkin.

[antichrist]

It varies. That's why it's important, if buying a diff to install in the rear, to make sure there's fill plug in the carrier housing.

[I Leak Oil]

If not, it's easy enough to drill and tap a 1/2" npt and buy a plug. If you get a diff without (usually the later style) it's not a deal breaker.

[gudjeon]

If you haven't found out already, semi-floating axles on a ser1 need the backing plates disconnected along with rear brake hydraulics. Axles pulled out a couple of inches to remove the diff. A "newer diff" will probably have done away withe the alignment dowels on the diff case face. Clamp a vice grip on and wiggle to remove. There was no provision for these dowels on my ser3 diff , so I assumed it aligned itself with the circle of bolts. If not, it did.