Toe-in adjustment question

[NickDawson]

Hey folks,
We all know what will happen when I post this right? As soon as I want to get back on track with fixing or preventing other stuff, something new breaks
So... knocking on wood....

I'd like to address the darty steering I've lived with since owning my truck. To the eye, the tires are VERY toe-in, and others have commented on them before too.

I've read up on the adjustment process and while I haven't done it before, think I understand it.

Before I set up a fancy jig, or put paint on the tires or something equally complex, is there any reason I can't just use a known point on the treads? For instance, the tread pattern has three groves running the circumference of each tire. Couldn't I just measure from the inside of the middle grove on each tire?

I understand the specs call for a pretty specific amount of toe and a variation on a nub or notch in the treads would change that. But, I'm starting from pretty far out of spec and I could do my best to make sure I was on a nub or ridge on each tire when taking measurements.

To that end, this video uses that method: http://www.ehow.com/video_2327639_me...alignment.html


Thoughts, suggestions, lessons learned?

[bkreutz]

I use a couple of straight edges on the outside of both tires and a tape measure. I've checked it on an alignment machine later and didn't need to readjust so I figure it's a pretty accurate way (if you make sure the straightedges are straight and not sitting on a bump or you have knobby tires)

[jac04]

Don't trust the tires to run true enough for use in any type of precise alignment measurements.

I use a metal framing square with a pointer (center punch) attached to it with a pair of vise grips.
Park the vehicle on a level surface. Doesn't have to be perfect - a garage floor works nicely for me.
Put a reference mark IN ONE PLACE at the outside edge of each front wheel at the same elevation as the centerline of the wheel. Using the square/pointer, set the pointer at the mark. Make sure the square is perpendicular to the floor in both planes. This is very important. Use a level and shims to accomplish this. Where the corner of the square hits the floor, make a mark. Do this for both sides (L&R). Push the vehicle so that the mark on the wheel rotates 180 degrees. Do it all again. Measure between the 2 sets of marks, then do the math to figure toe in (or out).

I've used this method on several cars with great success. Camber is also easily done using the framing square, but involves a bit more math to figure the angle.

[NickDawson]

Tried using the string method today - it was toe out. Adjusted to neutral-ish.
It didn't make a lick of difference in the dartyness or the slack in the wheel (although I never expected it to help with the later).

On the plus side, I took a few minutes to re-time the engine by ear and it's running very nicely at the moment. So I'll take my wins where I can get 'em

[disco2hse]

"Dartiness" and "slack" are not symptoms of misalignment, unless it is really bad. If you get a rumble or vibration through the steering at, say 80-90km/hr, it pulls to the left or right, you are getting uneven tyre wear (inside of the tread surface or the outside), or it crabs, then you can have misalignment.

What you are describing is misadjustment in the steering box and you may have worn bushes. See page 10-14 in the Series III Repair Operation Manual.

You may also have worn bushes in the springs or your shock absorbers may be stuffed.

[o2batsea]

Heaven knows there's plenty of places in the steering linkage for slop. I'm probably not telling you anything you haven't already suspected, but here goes:
Swivel pre load must be set.
Wheel bearings adjusted.
Toe adjustment.
Ball joints for steering cross shaft and tie rod.
Steering relay adjustment. Ball joints on steering box to relay shaft.
Steering box adjustment/repair.
Loose fittings on steering box.
Spring shackles, bushes, frame bushes.
Probably not but doesn't hurt to check: broken frame horn.

[jac04]

Steering relay adjustment.

Can you elaborate on this?

[disco2hse]

Can you elaborate on this?

See page 10-14 in the Series III Repair Operation Manual.

And pp 57-5, 57-6, 57-8.

[o2batsea]

Can you elaborate on this?

Well of course you're right there's no adjustment, just that if the spring's busted or the arms are loose or whatever, that's what I mean. As you know the steering relay gets ignored, and if it isn't kept happy it makes life miserable. Not everyone checks that it's got oil.

[bobzinak]

toe in adjustment is pretty easy, this is my method. jack front wheels off the ground, both of them, wiggle you wheels to make sure that there is nothing that slops around. side to side up and down. push wheels back and forth to locate any sloppy/loose steering components. at this time wiggle you steering wheel while looking at the front wheels to see how much play is in your steering box. (steering box can be adjusted by slacking off the square bolt held in place by the 1 inch nut. if you do adjust it make sure to turn left to right without any binding. steering boxes that have ben driven while loose may have wear in the center position. take some masking tape and put a strip of tape all around both tires. take a pencil and while spinning the tire, draw a line on tire circumference. now you have reference points on the tires.measure the tires halfway up, or the same distance off the floor as center of axle. mark that point on tires, use two measuring tapes, tape the measuring tapes on front and back of one tire. I put mine a few inches in rather than trying to line up end of tape on centerline. also stuck a piece of foam or a rag under tire to keep it from spinning. the reason for jacking up the tires off the ground is that way you can run the tape over the leaf springs on the rear side. compare measurment difference betwen front of tire and back of tire, adjust track rod to specs (its like 3/64 ths toe in) I used this method to get everthing set up before having a garage check it with their toe in machine..they said it was right on. simple and reasonably quick..Hope this helps. rove on..bobzinak

[jac04]

^^This method measures the toe at the OD of the tire. Factory specs are at the wheel. The above method will result in less toe-in than specified by the factory manual. Not necessarily a big deal, but worth noting.