I'll second the PB, but dead blows don't have much shock value, I'd use a BFH instead. (oh, there's a latch somewhere to keep it closed, I'm assuming you've released that)
Gale Breitkreutz
'03 Disco
'74 Series III 88 (sold, 4/13)
'47 CJ2A
These lock up pretty easily when not used. Soak it really well in what ever your favorite penetrating oil it. Make sure the locking pin is removed. I prefere a large screw driver but use what ever you like to just work the locking mechanism until it frees up. With it unlocked do the same for the jaw. No real secret, just elbow grease.
Odds are, once the safety pins are removed, you can just use something to pry up the latch. Then lower the anti-swivel latch and stick a pipe in the pintle to get it to rotate.
They can be pretty much completely taken apart to clean and lube, then keep them lubed. They have grease fittings.
Tom Rowe
Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
in places even more inaccessible.
Open sesame! A crow bar and a bit of banging and she opened up just fine. Now to lube and a lot of wd40 to keep it working...
Thanks all
Good for you!
I'd suggest WD-40 and then lube it up with grease. WD is pretty good at getting into nooks and crannies, and displacing the water, rust and icky but it doesn't work too well long term. But I'm picking at details here. In the end, anything is better than nothing.
When my pintle starts to seize I usually have to tap it open with a hammer and then soak the joints with PB blaster. My followup is to grease the joints with wheel bearing grease and then wipe down the moving parts with a rag covered in the excess grease. Make sure to get the wear surfaces of the hitch or else it will make a foul racket when turning or backing up with a trailer.
I'd suggest WD-40 and then lube it up with grease. WD is pretty good at getting into nooks and crannies, and displacing the water, rust and icky but it doesn't work too well long term. But I'm picking at details here. In the end, anything is better than nothing.
When my pintle starts to seize I usually have to tap it open with a hammer and then soak the joints with PB blaster. My followup is to grease the joints with wheel bearing grease and then wipe down the moving parts with a rag covered in the excess grease. Make sure to get the wear surfaces of the hitch or else it will make a foul racket when turning or backing up with a trailer.
Better than WD-40 but great at getting into all those nooks and crannies is Breakfree.
1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
1965 109 SW - nearly running well
1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
1969 109 P-UP
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