Howdy, I have a 74 109 ex-mod. I recently asked about a reference for bolts/nuts in a different post, it was suggested that guys buy bulk nuts and bolts to replace the missing bolts. I am curious if anyone has done this? Do you what sizes I will need? I am particularly interested in the bulkhead, seat base etc. and front bumper. Although, I will eventually need all of them, so the more information the better. Thank you in advance. Tasi
Anyone replace the bolts and nuts with bulk from fastenall or the like?
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Even at Fastenal, it's not easy to find the galvanized 1/4-28 nuts and bolts that make up most of a Rover's fasteners. There are tons of 1/4-20 stuff, but not a lot of fine thread galvanized.--Mark
1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel
0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
(9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door). -
McMaster Carr, Britishfasteners.com
There just aren't enough on one vehicle to justify buying boxes of fasteners. Most of the fasteners are UNF. Not all are galvanized, some are parkerized, others chromated. Best bet is to buy what you need from George.Comment
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I used 'galvanized' as a general term as most of the hardware was sheradized, a process of applying a galvanizing coating to the hardware by exposure to vaporized zinc. Nobody knows what sharadizing is though, especially at Fastenal.--Mark
1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel
0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
(9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).Comment
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As a stainless steel fan, I always use at least a Grade4 UNF stainless on most everything that's not mechanical. They will last longer than what they're fitted to. Anything else (engine-axles-trans) I use at least Grade8 stainless. I just pick them up as I need them, having boxes of them about is nice, but you never have the one you're in need of.
'95 R.R.C. Lwb
'76 Series III Hybrid 109
'70 Rover 3500SComment
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Hundred count bag of 1/4 nuts,washers,lockwashers. 3/4" long 1/4 bolts are used allover the place. Granger used to have really low prices on SS fasteners. Tractor Supply has good prices too.1978 MOD 109Comment
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The stainless-on-aluminum subject is a real can of worms. As this dead horse has been flogged and flogged again, I'm sure that everyone knows by now that stainless is more reactive with the aluminum than plain steel and a lot more reactive than zinc.
This might mean that your aluminum will corrode through in 5 years or 35 years, who knows. I use stainless fasteners on the stuff I regularly remove like the seat box, floor boards and wing-to-rad support joint so I don't have to fight with it.
I'd recommend that if you do use stainless fasteners, use one type of stainless for the nuts and another type for the bolts. They have a great propensity to seize up due to galling if you use the same stainless composition on both nut and bolt.--Mark
1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel
0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
(9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).Comment
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I've never had a problem finding fine thread at my local Fastenal. Like WhiteRabbit says; hundreds of 1/4-28, 3/4long. Also some 5/16-20. The galling is an issue I use lubricant(antisieze) on mine when I install. Go to http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-in...de-Chart.aspx/ to find out about bolt strength.
geneComment
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Yeah, they have pallets full of 1/4-28 in stainless and plain nuts and bolts, but I've never seen any 1/4-28 hardware that was galvanized (using any process) in any of my local Fastenals.
I'm also fond of getting my fasteners in quantity at The Nutty Company. HALF the price of Fastenal and fast shipping.--Mark
1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel
0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
(9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).Comment
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