Series 1 from 1952 what to look for before deal

[DiscoKaj]

Hi there!

I just got an offer to buy a complete and running Series 1 from 52. It´s the real ******** version with no door windows.... Just an aluminum raincover over the three front seats.
What shall I look for before I close the deal?
Is there anything horribly expensive that is hard to get?
How do I test the transmission?
Is there a starting procedure? There were a lot of unmarked buttons.

How much it it worth? It´s an original Landy with extra power outlet in the rear. It´s been used mainly as a farm tractor in the mountains so the metal parts is in resonable shape.

Thanks
D

[o2batsea]

Series Ones are so darn cool that no matter how horrible it is you should buy it. There are plenty of resources out there to help restore and preserve your truck. It won't be cheap, but no Rover is.

[westcoastkevin]

go to the LRSOC forum.

[leafsprung]

if it does not have doors its not complete. Prices vary greatly based on condition and location - buy it because you love it. All of the small original fittings are expensive - electrical parts, horn button assy, rear lamps - seals etc etc. Good luck they are awesome

[artpeck]

I just bought a later series 1. In this case sight unseen but wasn't disappointed. What I would say is look for all the stuff on an s2 and beyond. Rust to start with and structural rust in particular including the frame and bulkhead. Engine; compression, smoke, fluids as they should be. Straight frame. And how much funky stuff has been done. Which no doubt has been done. Tranny shouldn't be rushed as you shift but should upshift relatively cleanly. Don't force it. Feel it in. Downshift...don't. I dont know about an early and whether they were synchro at all but laters where like s2 and 1st and 2nd were not. Body work...generally intact, no filler. It will show the signs of 60 years of use but obvious compromise you should look for.

All of this might be obvious so apologies if so.

Parts are a bit hard to come by but search and there are various bits squirled away around the world. UK, OZ, NZ.

Hope that helps a bit

[Les Parker]

Just what I need to complete the set !

Let me know if you do not buy it.

Some pix of its current condition would be nice ....

[jac04]

Just what I need to complete the set !
Let me know if you do not buy it.

He's in Sweden - that's a long way to go for a S1.

[parrie]

I agree w/ "o2batsea"...the early S1s are just so cool. Sounds to me like you already have your mind made-up and just looking for some reassurance. I think "artpeck" hit all the major things to look for before buying. I think my biggest concern would be the chassis, bulkhead and transmission. If you don't mind, what is the asking price?

[Les Parker]

Jeff,

Maybe he'll flat pack it, Series I's don't take up much room. !

Yes, a bit of a long drive, boat ride....... Just a thought.

I've noticed even rudimentary parts for Series I's, rear wheel bearings, chassis outriggers and most body parts are as rare as rocking horse manure.

[leafsprung]

I think rear wheel bearing were also used by john deere - more and more parts for series ones are being made but they arent as easy as s2

[westcoastkevin]

Rear wheel bearings for the semi floating axles cross ref to the same bearings in the rear of a 1951 Ford pickup truck.
SKF Part # 88128R
Available as genuine SKF for less than $30

[gudjeon]

I got my rear wheel bearings at my local Napa for the semi floating axle. They even had them in stock while my industrial bearing/seal supplier was scratching his head and talking special orders.... The earlier you go in ser1, the more difficult parts get to find. The original motor can be rebuilt but will cost much $$$. The cam followers on the exhaust valves wear quite a bit (less validity to the old zinc additive is better theory). The transmission and transfer case are identical to the ser2 with the exception of some bearings and gears, bellhousing (different motor) and park brake shoes. I would look for condition as the same as looking at a ser2. The LRSOC is invaluable as a resource for all things related to ser1. It could be a gamble. I have found farmer owned vehicles to be badly modified/molested. On the other hand, not running on salted roads can be a big plus.

[Mudtub]

Sorry to jump in and use your thread, seals for the rear axel does any one have a sourse. My plan was to install wider later series axels in place of series one. Good or bad any thought.

[DiscoKaj]

It has doors. It looks like the one "lefsprung" has as his avatar. No door windows though.
The car looked straight and really original when compared to the pics I have found on the internet. It seems like it´s a deal to buy it only due to the lack of spare parts and sell it in pieces since it´s a good price for the car. The owner died and the family has no clue of the car......
Thanks "artpeck" I will check as much as possible. Is the bulkhead and the frame made of "English steel" and the rest of the body work in aluminum? Axels and suspension are of course in some steel alloy like any other car.
I´m not thinkin restoring the body work just keepng the wonderful "used" rugged style and getting the mechanical parts i good shape so i can use the car summer time for fun and winter time for moving snow, wich we get a lot of in my area...

Thanks and please keep posting here.

[artpeck]

Sounds like a solid candidate to work on. The frame, bulkhead,meat box etc are steel. The body work is aluminum. On the steel frame all the advice will say to get a hammer, ideally ball peen, and tap your way around visible rust and key points on the frame. Ideally tap around as much as you can reach as rust can also start inside and eat through. The sound will be a good metal to metal where the steel is good and a dull sound where you have penetrating rust. Doesn't sound like the owners have tried to dress this up to sell it so hopefully nothing intentionally hidden. On the bulkhead etc just go over it. All the mats and seats out and visually inspect. With the steel and aluminum you also get the ingredients of bimetallic corrosion so place where fasteners attach body components can also be corroded. As to mechanical unless you start opening things up you kind of get what you get and have to go from the cues that starting, listening, looking and driving give you. Leaks, obvious bad noises, how it shifts. An easy check on the engine is to do a compression test in each cylinder. I don't know the spec numbers off hand but can pull them from my shop manual or I am sure youncanndig them up. It will tell you how tired the engine is. Done cold and then warm will give you a directional indicator of what might be the issue also if you have one. Again is might all be obvious to you so apologies if it seems basic. I don't know what your mechanical background is.

Now, as to moving snow. I have a home in the mountains in northern Caifornia where we get 500" a year and I would NEVER consider using the truck to move snow as the snow would move the truck. It is a small, fairly light, and minimally powered vehicle. Just my two cents on what is realistic. Let us know how this goes. As you can see these truck are rare, cool and provoke a lot of interest.