Disk Brake Conversion

[gentilepiano]

Hello All...Has anyone installed the series disk brake conversion setup now offered by our host?
How difficult ?
pleased with the results ?
Any comments would be greatly appreciated

[o2batsea]

If you have ever rebuilt your swivels, then that's about as difficult as this will get. There are a few considerations over and above the discs themselves. The master cylinder remains unboosted, so the foot action is about the same. You could upgrade to boosted master cylinder, which will require some body mods on the Series wings. Also, you will be better served with 16 inch wheels. This will fit in a 15 inch but there's just a scosh more room with 16s.

[TeriAnn]

The kit is the same as Rovers North offered a few years back. It uses a swivel housing and hub designed by Timm Cooper and manufactured by ROAM OFFROAD. It is a very high quality kit. I have no hands on experience with this kit but it appears to be the same difficulty as replacing the Railco bushings. You disassemble everything down to that point then reassemble with new parts. If your bushings are old it would be a good time to replace them. Sorry I do not have a how-to web page for this conversion since I have not done one.

And yes you will want to convert to power brakes if you do not have them. I have a web page that provides an overview of common power brake conversions. For an easy conversion I recommend a late IIA/III brake pedestal and Santana servo unit that is basically a Defender type 50 servo with Series rod. It is better than the 2:1 boost you get from a Series servo. A late IIA/III inner wing panel saves cutting up the wing for fit.

[gentilepiano]

Thanks for the info
My rig is a series 3 with a dual system and a vacuum booster
The brakes are in good shape, and adjusted, but leave a lot to be desired... Still debating

[I Leak Oil]

The brakes are in good shape, and adjusted, but leave a lot to be desired... Still debating

In good shape and adjusted.....they won't get better, only worse.
If you can stomach the cost (for any conversion, not just the RN) disc brakes are a nice addition to a series truck. You won't regret it....

[TeriAnn]

Thanks for the info
My rig is a series 3 with a dual system and a vacuum booster
The brakes are in good shape, and adjusted, but leave a lot to be desired... Still debating

You will notice a definite improvement if you upgrade to the Santana type 50 style servo unit. This is a bolt on upgrade. Heystee automotive sells this unit. I don't think RN carries Santana parts.

I consider front disc brakes to be an important 109 brake upgrade because the stock 109 front brakes have 2 leading shoes per side which do not work well in the backwards direction. A BIG problem if you have to stop a 109 nose up on a steep grade and do not want to roll backwards. For an 88, disc brakes are good but you probably would not notice much if any braking improvement when the shoes are dry vs disc brakes. A bigger Servo is what really helps provide more braking with less pedal effort. Don't get me wrong, as I consider disc brakes to be a safety upgrade for 88s as well as a 109. Especially for wet brakes. But you really need more than the Series 2:1 servo boost to take the best advantage of disc brakes.

Your upgrade path from Series power brakes without cutting the body is either a pre 1990 Defender brake pedal assembly with Defender type 50 servo unit or a late IIA/III Series pedal assembly with a Santana type 50 style servo unit. A type 80 servo unit would require wing cutting and a deluxe bonnet.

[luckyjoe]

You will notice a definite improvement if you upgrade to the Santana type 50 style servo unit.

Any idea what the Santana 50's boost ratio is?

[Jim-ME]

When it comes to an 88, if one has limited funds would just getting the fronts be acceptable? I'm running a 109 MC with a standard Series booster.
Jim

[RNZack]

When it comes to an 88, if one has limited funds would just getting the fronts be acceptable? I'm running a 109 MC with a standard Series booster.
Jim

We offer a front-only kit because of the cost-issue, and because fronts do more of the stopping anyways.

[I Leak Oil]

Jim, I only have discs in the front, original drums in the rear, 109 MC. No issues at all. Fronts do something along the lines of 70% of your braking anyway.

[TeriAnn]

Any idea what the Santana 50's boost ratio is?

I have only seen boost specs for the Servos offered by the factory for the 88 and for the 109. But as a comparison, the Series brake servo has a 6 inch diaphragm and the Type 50 (early Defender & Santana) has a 8 inch dia diaphragm to create the boost. It is the largest that can be a bolt on direct replacement for a Series servo.

[o2batsea]

Another less invasive option is to install 109 front brakes. The drums have more surface area. I have never felt that the drum brakes were unsafe or didn't stop well. I was always able to lock it up if I really wanted to. You have to adjust them tight. Like, set the snail cams so that you cannot turn the wheel and then back it off one notch.

[superstator]

What exactly are the differences between the Proline and Genuine kits? They both say they have a mix of proline and genuine, so what parts exactly get "upgraded" between the two price points?

[RNZack]

Sorry for the confusion, there are no Proline parts in the Genuine kit. The only non-genuine parts in the genuine kit are the custom conversion pieces provided by Timm Cooper.

[luckyjoe]

...the Series brake servo has a 6 inch diaphragm and the Type 50 (early Defender & Santana) has a 8 inch dia diaphragm to create the boost.

Not sure how diaphragm diameter affects boost, as remote servo's are available in various boost ratios with the similar diaphragm diameter, or occasionally higher boost with smaller diaphragm (1.9:1 = 8", 2.3:1 = 6").