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I have been methodically rebuilding my Series IIa over time. As I take bolts off, I clean them up and when I put them back on, I usually coat them with Anti-Seize compound for easier removal later. Particularly, bolts and nut combinations that hold on body panels like the Wings, etc. Is there ever a time I don't want to use Anti-seize on nuts and bolts? Does it cause some bolts to loosen up too easily and not "grip" as well? Why would OEM not use this stuff on original assembly other than cost considerations? That makes me think there are situations where using it is not ideal. I have seen NGK spark plug bulletins saying not to use it on their spark plugs because it makes it too easy to over-tighten and snap the plug off in the block. Before I slather this stuff on every bolt of a restore, I would like some advice.
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1971 Series IIa 109 Ex-MoD
1994 Landcruiser FJZ80, ARB Front Bumper, Old Man EMU suspension -
Torque sensitive parts like main, conrod caps and headbolts. I do not put anti-seize on these as corrosion is not an issue. Putting stuff on the threads changes the torque values at the thread so I leave them alone. They would tighten up more as threads would slide easier putting more tension on the fastener than what should be there. Modern auto's don't call for anti-seize on threads of wheel nuts because the torque values change too much and can make them loosen later. -
its terrible on toastComment
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Bad in cocktailsComment
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Goes real far in a washing machine!
I use it on everything I can as long as I remember. Just pulled my upper rear shock bolts, they haven't been touched in over ten years. They came out like I just put them in last week! You have to love the stuff.Comment
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Works great on electrical earths (grounds) and battery terminals to help prevent corrosion and promote a better connection. Never heard of it causing torquing problems, or spark plugs breaking. I've used it on everything from lawn mowers to hi-tech industrial machinery with no ill effects. And it comes in a couple of flavours: Copper, Nickel, Silver, and Bronze. I use stainless bolts wherever I can, but for everything else anti-seize is helpful. And a small pot of it would be enough to paint a large bridge.
'95 R.R.C. Lwb
'75 Series III Hybrid 109
'70 Rover 3500SComment
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As most of you know, anti-sieze is amazingly tenacious stuff, and seems to preserve everything it touches - I rubbed some on some rust spots on my frame years ago - it's still there and the rust is at bay.
I always put a shmear on the upper threads of all new bleed screws - it keeps them from rusting in place after a few winters.
Question: I have a British restoration manual (made with the Dunsfold folks) that frequently refers to the use of "copper grease."
It was mentioned on a previous thread that copper grease would be bad if it came in contact with aluminum - hastening corrosion (that whole galvanic scale / nobility thing).
Any comments?
TedComment
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I have used stainless fasteners on my truck for years but often have galling problems. At my new work we use a special stainless compound, the stuff is unreal. Order it from MacMaster Carr, it's not cheap but it sure works. Plus I used the copper on all the bullet connectors, until I hard wired everything...Comment
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Nah, just scare mongering.
Oh well, maybe you will have galvanic action with just the right amount of current blah blah blah. I am sure someone who knows what they are talking about will fill the gaps. Mostly it is used to stop steel from sticking to steel. Aluminium is not normally part of the combination.
If the fear of copper is so great, remove the wiring.
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Convice your kids to go trick or treating as a robot. Slather them in the nickle antiseize as part of their costume. Much cheaper than the stuff you get at the local costume store. Might be a real bear getting it off but just prepare them ahead of time that they might have to wear the costume to school for a few days until it comes off.
Internal mechanical components (engine, tranny, axle etc.) don't generally need it. Pretty safe to use it most everywhere else.Jason
"Clubs are for Chumps" Club presidentComment
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Here is the Technical Service Bulletin link for the NGK spark plugs. Pretty scary photos!
1971 Series IIa 109 Ex-MoD
1994 Landcruiser FJZ80, ARB Front Bumper, Old Man EMU suspensionComment
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I suppose any ham-handed mechanic could break any spark plug by tightening it to a few hundred lb/ft of torque. Or cheezy metal would fatigue on vigoriously cranking in place. But in the several decades of anti-seizing spark plugs (including NGK's) I haven't seen anything like this. All in all I think this is why the torque wrench was invented.
'95 R.R.C. Lwb
'76 Series III Hybrid 109
'70 Rover 3500SComment
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doubting NGK?
Why would you doubt the manufacturer? They have a coating on the threads and lubricating the plug gives a different reading with a torque wrench. Why risk it? I am guessing they know what they are talking about since they have sold a few plugs around the world!
1968 battlefield ambulance/camper
1963 Unimog Radio box
1995 LWB RRComment
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That's what I was thinking. How tight do you have to turn in a spark plug to have it snap or stretch. Even with never-seize. You can feel the washer compress way before you get there. I have used it on plugs for may years as well and never had on go in too tight. The only ones I have had stuck are the wedge based ones. They can be in there like a sumagun.Comment
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