Octane gas?

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  • sleam
    1st Gear
    • May 2010
    • 104

    Octane gas?

    Just a quick question again! I've been reading that for old engines like my 72, the best gas is low octane. I live at 7000 ft. It's a 2.5 engine. About 112K miles on the engine. Over summer I had problems with vapor locks. Now not so much.
    Any thoughts?
    thanks

    1959 SII sold
    1972 SIII RHD 88" (current project!)
  • SafeAirOne
    Overdrive
    • Apr 2008
    • 3435

    #2
    There are a few threads on this board regarding vapor lock cures, including fuel line routing, and the use of electric fuel pumps to recirculate the fuel. I can't remember all the details, but if you search 'vapor lock' I'm sure you'll find all the gouge.
    --Mark

    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

    Comment

    • I Leak Oil
      Overdrive
      • Nov 2006
      • 1796

      #3
      I've noticed NO difference when running any regular pump gas. 87,89,92 octane.....no diffrence at all.
      Jason
      "Clubs are for Chumps" Club president

      Comment

      • sleam
        1st Gear
        • May 2010
        • 104

        #4
        Good to know! I won't worry about it then. Thanks folks

        1959 SII sold
        1972 SIII RHD 88" (current project!)

        Comment

        • thixon
          5th Gear
          • Jul 2007
          • 909

          #5
          You can time your truck to run well on whatever octane fuel you desire to use. I recommend regular since its the cheapest. Simply put, the higher the compression engine you have, the more pre-combustion becomes and issue requiring higher octane fuel. 7:1 or 8:1 (typical for a rover motor) = no trouble on low octane pump gas. Do a google search for a more detailed explanation.

          The vapor lock had nothing to do with the octane fuel you used, and more to do with ambient temperature or possibly how you're fuel lines are routed (close to a heat source). Mark gave you some great advice to cure vapor lock (electric pump).
          Travis
          '66 IIa 88

          Comment

          • busboy
            2nd Gear
            • Nov 2012
            • 202

            #6
            Years ago I struggled with a vapor lock that was very annoying, I tried all kinds of things to cure it and some worked for awhile but then it would come back. I eventually replaced the fuel pump and I've never had another vapor lock since.
            1971 series 2a 88, series 3 trans, Fairey OD, owned since 1978.

            Comment

            • Billy5
              1st Gear
              • Aug 2010
              • 172

              #7
              I have had no issues with vapor lock, but then again I live in flat land long island. I run premium once in a while, regular most of the time. I do notice a difference in the way it runs. Worth the extra cost? Most likely not. As its been said, these were designed to run on awful third and fourth world country stuff.
              1969 Series 2a Bugeye

              Comment

              • sleam
                1st Gear
                • May 2010
                • 104

                #8
                I did get another fuel pump so I can trade it out. As soon as i have time, I'll go ahead and let you know what the difference is. Thanks,
                s

                1959 SII sold
                1972 SIII RHD 88" (current project!)

                Comment

                • SGS714
                  Low Range
                  • Jan 2007
                  • 83

                  #9
                  Originally posted by busboy
                  Years ago I struggled with a vapor lock that was very annoying, I tried all kinds of things to cure it and some worked for awhile but then it would come back. I eventually replaced the fuel pump and I've never had another vapor lock since.
                  I went through the same senerio and ended up with the same solution after the 3rd fuel pump and finally got one that cured the issue. Now I am still running the pump that worked and have an electronic one on the shelf if needed down the road.
                  ________________________
                  67 Series II
                  71 Series IIa 88" ACR 2.8 Power Plus
                  89 RRC SWB 2-Door 2.4L tdi Spanish
                  93 D110 NAS 327
                  94 2x D90 NAS #'s 1076, 1181
                  95 3x RRC 2-SWB, 1-LWB

                  Comment

                  • Lance
                    Low Range
                    • Jul 2011
                    • 70

                    #10
                    I had this happen to me this last summer but haven't done anything about it yet. Did you guys replace the fuel pump with another machanical pump? If you did what about a rebuild kit?
                    sigpic
                    1967 109 station wagon
                    1958 & 1959 TR 3
                    1943 GPW Jeep
                    1970 Jeepster

                    Comment

                    • busboy
                      2nd Gear
                      • Nov 2012
                      • 202

                      #11
                      Yes I stayed with the mechanical one, the aftermarket replacement parts are so cheap nowadays you can buy the complete pump with or without the sediment bowl for around $40, I have used "rebuild kits" before for other things and even though the kit is sealed there will be a seal or a part missing, now I replace the complete item and no worries about internal corrosion.
                      1971 series 2a 88, series 3 trans, Fairey OD, owned since 1978.

                      Comment

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