Replacing brake lines

[sunnyeveryday]

Please check my profile.

So, I'm putting the Land Rover on the ramps again for more maintenance chores and fluid starts dripping from my rear right side in front of the wheel. On invetsigation the metal brake line (not the hose) has sprung a leak. So, a quick decision to replace all the brake lines and the hoses. May as well get it all fixed and safe.

So I order the pipe, parts and flaring tools from the UK. They come in a week and after a few weeks of delays, I put it up on ramps and take a look.

It is a dual system by the way. I decide to take of the main run that failed from the 4-way in the front to the 2 way splitter to the rear drums. The connections come of fine but the 4 (at least) clamps with screws are a different matter.

You did check my profile, didn't you.

I get one out after about an hour with lot's of PB blaster penetrating solvent and a impact driver.

Of the other Three, Two are on top of cross members and one is next to the transmission. Ie. I can't get to any of them with a screwdriver let alone an impact driver.

I'm think I'll try to either carefully lift the clamps and pull the pipe out, or I might have to buy and drill new mounting positions. The first idea might work but the clamp might be permanently bent.

Can any more experienced people who have changed brake lines offer me some hints, tips or advice.

Thanks...Martin.

[I Leak Oil]

Get or make new lines. Mount new clamps in new positions and have fun driving your truck. No need to spend so much time and effort to reuse original pipe clamps or mounting points.

[thixon]

"Get or make new lines. Mount new clamps in new positions and have fun driving your truck. No need to spend so much time and effort to reuse original pipe clamps or mounting points. "

What he said....with an addition or two.

what you're trying to do is about 5 million times easier with the body off the truck if you want the lines on top of the frame rails. I'm sure you've figured this out by now.

If you need help PM or email me. tdhixon@gmail.com

[Apis Mellifera]

I highly recommend kunifer brake lines. They don't rust and are easy to install. I switched from steel a few years ago when I restored an MG Midget and there really isn't a downside that I've found. When I reframed my SIII I did a complete brake replacement. I ordered a model specific kit from RovahFarm and it worked a treat. I'd just get the new pipes, unions, tees, etc and get it done. Get some hoses while you're at it.

[sunnyeveryday]

Thanks for the replies.

I'll just do the new mounts.

Take the body off. You saw I was a newbie mechanic, as well as newbie Land Rover owner. Besides, I think it is a bit heavy to take it off by myself.

Yes, I mentioned I was changing the hoses as well. Thanks.

Got to get my hands dirty again tonight I guess.

Thanks again for the advice...Martin.

[Apis Mellifera]

What the previous posts are saying is that it is easier to do it the "proper" way with the body off. (ie putting the pipes back where they were). A long as you don't put the pipes on the bottom of the frame rails (where they'd get crushed), you can route them anywhere you want. This can be done easily without any disassembly. Personally, if I had 30+ year old brake hydraulics that were leaking, I'd rebuild the system. I think you'd actually be saving time and effort replacing the works, not to mention the whole safety thing.

[sunnyeveryday]

"So, a quick decision to replace all the brake lines and the hoses. May as well get it all fixed and safe."

Quote from my first email.

[Apis Mellifera]

Right. Good luck with your hopes and dreams.

[albersj51]

I agree 100%. I went with Kunifer (Co-Ni) alloy lines from Napa and flared them myself. I had never done it and, while I did waste some, I was able to get it. Its very workable and easily forms to whatever routing you choose. Also, its much easier to flare. Lastly, I purchased braided stainless flex lines instead of the rubber ones. I got them because they were on sale, but I like the idea behind them.

Good luck!

I highly recommend kunifer brake lines. They don't rust and are easy to install. I switched from steel a few years ago when I restored an MG Midget and there really isn't a downside that I've found. When I reframed my SIII I did a complete brake replacement. I ordered a model specific kit from RovahFarm and it worked a treat. I'd just get the new pipes, unions, tees, etc and get it done. Get some hoses while you're at it.

[busboy]

Remember all brake lines must be double flared so if you make your own get the correct flaring tool. They are easy to make and if replacing the steel lines might as well do all the flexible ones at the same time.