I used narrow strips of aluminum about 1/2 inch wide and quite thin then pop riveted them on one side of the "P" seal using short 1/8 aluminum rivets. They have been there for about 30 years.
1971 series 2a 88, series 3 trans, Fairey OD, owned since 1978.
I have used 10-32 x 3/8" long stainless screws with small pattern nuts. Put a dab of red Loctite on each one and just snug it down.
Yes, do this. You will thank yourself later. If you use button head allen you can't tell the difference between them and pop rivets unless you look closely.
BY FAR the best way to get proper door seals for a Series is to take an angle grinder and cut off the lip edges. It's a nasty, job and you will need a good face shield and angle grinder. The payoff is you can install Defender door seals that run completely around the entire door and are 10000000% (really, THAT much!) better than the goofy trim, cut, pop rivet crap that was OEM. I've done it both ways and the Defender seals are the way to go.
BY FAR the best way to get proper door seals for a Series is to take an angle grinder and cut off the lip edges. It's a nasty, job and you will need a good face shield and angle grinder. The payoff is you can install Defender door seals that run completely around the entire door and are 10000000% (really, THAT much!) better than the goofy trim, cut, pop rivet crap that was OEM. I've done it both ways and the Defender seals are the way to go.
FWIW I installed Defender door seals on my 1970 IIA without removing the lip edges as described above. In my case they fit fine (if going on a bit tight in places). Incredibly simple to install.
I agree completely that Defender seals are far superior to the Series seals.
Comment