Galvanizing and powder coating

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  • hoppyrover
    Low Range
    • Dec 2011
    • 17

    Galvanizing and powder coating

    We are starting the project of galvanizing and powder coating parts of our Rover. Front bumper and parts of winch, no questions, we will galvanize. Back bumper (if you call it that) I see a lot of photos that show them painted. Is that the original way to go? Wheels we will sand blast and paint Limestone. Is it real important to powder coat or is good paint shot on the rims good? Any suggestions about this project much appreciated.
  • JimCT
    5th Gear
    • Nov 2006
    • 518

    #2
    powder coating

    I know it seems to be the latest fad, but there was nothing powder coated on a LR. Just a thought for those who are restoring.







    Originally posted by hoppyrover
    We are starting the project of galvanizing and powder coating parts of our Rover. Front bumper and parts of winch, no questions, we will galvanize. Back bumper (if you call it that) I see a lot of photos that show them painted. Is that the original way to go? Wheels we will sand blast and paint Limestone. Is it real important to powder coat or is good paint shot on the rims good? Any suggestions about this project much appreciated.
    1968 battlefield ambulance/camper
    1963 Unimog Radio box
    1995 LWB RR

    Comment

    • o2batsea
      Overdrive
      • Oct 2006
      • 1199

      #3
      Personally, I would never powder coat anything because it is doomed to fail. It used to be that two part epoxies were difficult to mix and use, but those days are long gone. I used Interlux Perfection with flattening agent and painted the entire galvy chassis with it. Awesomeness and hard as nails. Also used it on countless small bits and pieces.
      If the choice is galvanize vs anything else, then galvanize. I did everything that is steel including wheels, bulkhead, door frames, bonnet frame, cappings, seat hardware, brackets, and innumerable small parts. The surface must be clean bright metal for best results. Professional chemical stripping is the best method, followed by media blasting followed by mechanical ( wheel, sanding )
      Even though I tried to do everything, there are still things I am finding that I need to go, which I missed. Don't expect to have it all done in one go unless you are ridiculously detail minded. I still need to do the sliders which I haven't made, the front bumper which I haven't made, the radiator and intercooler supports which i haven't made, the headliner stiffeners, the side bolster backing plates, blah blah blah....

      Comment

      • JimCT
        5th Gear
        • Nov 2006
        • 518

        #4
        powder coating is not the tough, and when it fails it is a real pain.
        1968 battlefield ambulance/camper
        1963 Unimog Radio box
        1995 LWB RR

        Comment

        • Kiloengineer
          Low Range
          • Dec 2011
          • 59

          #5
          I spent a bunch of money to media blast and powder coat a set of steel wheels about a year ago, and rust is coming through already. The wheels have not even seen that much water. Not happy.
          1968 Series IIA
          1962 Jaguar Mk 2

          Comment

          • hoppyrover
            Low Range
            • Dec 2011
            • 17

            #6
            Thanks for all the good advice. I have noticed there are so many galvanized parts we will never get them all in one trip to the dip. There is a local company that does the stripping and galvanizing. I've looked at their work and it appears good. Regarding Interlux Perfection, I have used that on a small boat mast and agree that it is awesome. The guy doing the blast work says he uses sand on steel that has any crevices since soda get into every little opening and can cause problems later. I started out wanting soda. Don't know if that is what has happened to your wheels. Regarding the concern about original, was the rear "bumper" originally galvanized or painted? I've seen most photos showing the front galvanized and the rear painted. Would like to stick with the original way as much as possible. Sounds like there's no good reason to powder coat.

            Comment

            • busboy
              2nd Gear
              • Nov 2012
              • 202

              #7
              The front bumper came galvanized but the back "bumper"?? is part of the frame which were originally painted.
              1971 series 2a 88, series 3 trans, Fairey OD, owned since 1978.

              Comment

              • cedryck
                5th Gear
                • Sep 2010
                • 836

                #8
                When you put a newly restored rover on the road, I don't care what type of coating you do, its is eventually going to show rust, and wear, Galvanizing, Powdercoating, Hot dip, whatever between the (here in New England) road salt, and off road wetness, and mud the truck is going to show rust and wear through eventually, if you are looking for that showroom look for an old rover then you are never going to be able to use it as a rover, no rain mud or wetness,

                Comment

                • antichrist
                  2nd Gear
                  • Mar 2009
                  • 272

                  #9
                  The real advantage of galvanizing over any other coating is that it is self healing.

                  Ever since I had a set of wheels sand blasted many years ago (they came back very pitted) I've been very leery of using that on something like wheels. I'd probably choose a softer media than sand, like plastic, walnut or glass beads. I've been doing a fair bit of glass bead blasting lately and it does a really good job except with heavy rust, the kind where it's begun to flake.
                  If you're having the wheels galvanized then I think soda would be ok, since the acid would neutralize any residue.
                  Tom Rowe

                  Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
                  in places even more inaccessible.

                  62 88 reg
                  67 NADA x2
                  74 Air Portable - The Antichrist (tag 6A666)
                  95 D1 - R380
                  95 D90 - R380
                  97 D1 - ZF

                  Comment

                  • hoppyrover
                    Low Range
                    • Dec 2011
                    • 17

                    #10
                    The plan is to paint the wheels Limestone which I believe is what was done originally. Rims are in good shape--not a lot of rust. I will check with the guy to see what media he's planning to use. Purpose of the truck is as a weekly driver--a little off road. I'm not trying to make it a piece of jewelry. Just want him to look original and pass along to my son some day.

                    On the subject of the Limestone paint, the truck is Marine blue with the tropical roof and window frames down to the galvanized body trim Limestone. I've seen some photos that show only the tropical roof and the metal under it as Limestone and the Marine blue going to the tops of the door/window frames. Anyone know which way was original--thanks.

                    Comment

                    • Revtor
                      2nd Gear
                      • Apr 2012
                      • 265

                      #11
                      I think body color on the window frames is NADA spec. Top and sides limestone. Wheels limestone.
                      ---- 1969 Bugeye ----
                      ---- 1962 Dormobile ----

                      Comment

                      • hoppyrover
                        Low Range
                        • Dec 2011
                        • 17

                        #12
                        It was originally sent to Hawaii. That's good to hear since I like the way it looks as is.

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