wheel brake or emergency brake stuck?

[busboy]

If the rear drive shaft is rotating by hand then your park brake is not stuck on. My guess is you have either mis-adjusted all your wheel service brakes or most likely your new master cylinder is no good. I would disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder and see if that frees up the wheels. I always leave my park brake set, some time for months on end during the winter and have never had a problem with it seizing on.

[SafeAirOne]

It sounds as if the length of the rod between the brake pedal and the MC plunger needs to be shortened to allow the valve inside the MC to open and let the hydraulic pressure to be relieved back into the reservoir when the pedal is released. By your description, it sounds as if the system is staying pressurized.

First, properly adjust the brakes on all four wheels and check it. If that doesn't help, turn your to the master cylinder, as described above.

[o2batsea]

Since it is 4WD the ideal thing is to have all 4 wheels off the ground when checking such things. That way you can put it in gear and see if one or more corners are binding. If all is well, then all 4 should be turning. A stuck brake will only allow the other side to spin.
The drums on a Series Rover should be adjusted so that there is some resistance to turning freely. Crank the snail cam until you cannot turn the wheel by hand. Start backing off one nudge at a time until you can just turn the wheel, Stop.
For the trans brake, it is usually not the shoes that get stuck, it is the linkage. The 2A has a lot of parking brake linkage. Look in particular at the bell crank. It has only a bronze bush that rides on a steel shaft. This is a pinch point for sure and you may find it gobbed up. The other place that gets gummy is the actuator thing that is pulled on. There are two wedge things that ride in a bore. This bore gets janky and can keep the shoes from returning. All are no buck fixes that require inspection and some disassembly and lube.

[SafeAirOne]

The concerning factor is that the brake pedal is hard and only moves 1". Either all the shoes are adjusted all the way out and against the drums or the system is staying pressurized. The MC should be displacing more fluid than that if the system is operating properly.

[Les Parker]

Rods on a Series vehicle, just a typo, I'm sure.

[alligatorfoot]

Thanks all for the guidance and advice that should get me back on track over the weekend. As mentioned I just had a new master cylinder and hoses put in/on a month before parking it and the brakes were all adjusted then and the truck ran fine for the next month. Definitely an issue with the pressure, also when I moved the floor mat from under the pedals it had oil/brake fluid caught in the mat???

The concerning factor is that the brake pedal is hard and only moves 1". Either all the shoes are adjusted all the way out and against the drums or the system is staying pressurized. The MC should be displacing more fluid than that if the system is operating properly.

[alligatorfoot]

In the event that someone else has the same issue in the future here is how things ultimately played out. It ended up being that the check value on the master cylinder needed to be adjusted so that the pressure in the lines could be released and bleed off when the brake pedal was released.

The first time I adjusted it too much meaning I had no brakes so I just adjusted it the other way. I will see how things are working tonight after sitting for a day (I might adjust it back a little bit more so that the brakes engage a little earlier when I hit the pedal.

Thank you to everyone for your help, beyond saving a little money, the satisfaction in figuring it out on my own was priceless.

Best Regards,

Mark

[SafeAirOne]

In other words, it was (essentially) a vacuum leak?

Edit---Nevermind...wrong thread. The brake booster wasn't releasing when it was supposed to.