Wanted Door Bottoms!

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • o2batsea
    Overdrive
    • Oct 2006
    • 1199

    #16
    Originally posted by tristan
    the frames have been patched a couple of times by the previous owner
    Well, you can go aftermarket/repro if that doesn't bother you too much. Otherwise you will have to live with what you have. Maybe Mike at ECR still has some of those derelicts he was selling last year. They're good for parts. Go get one before the rain washes them away.

    Comment

    • busboy
      2nd Gear
      • Nov 2012
      • 202

      #17
      Originally posted by Les Parker
      Those look like a nice product, I just wish you were closer to where I live, shipping across the border is a real pain. My 71 2a must be a very late one as it has one of each door latch on it both with keys. The pass side is an anti burst while the drivers a regular latch. I was under the impression they used the regular latch on the drivers door for longevity.
      1971 series 2a 88, series 3 trans, Fairey OD, owned since 1978.

      Comment

      • albersj51
        5th Gear
        • May 2010
        • 687

        #18
        There are 1 or 2 companies in the UK that make reproduction 2a doors for a reasonable price (including shipping). Original? No. Good enough for most? Yes. PM for details.
        Also, if you fix your doors I would use phosphoric acid to clear the rust, not hydrochloric. Lastly, make sure you don't get the acid on the aluminum.
        Last edited by albersj51; 04-12-2013, 01:37 PM.

        Comment

        • o2batsea
          Overdrive
          • Oct 2006
          • 1199

          #19
          Phosphoric acid is gentler by far but won't take off paint. Hydrochloric does both derust and paint strip in one shot. It is very nasty angry stuff which must be used outdoors and with extreme caution. It gasses and bubbles like crazy but boy will it clean up rust. Phosphoric might be a good second pass as it will leave a coating of phosphate that will help paint stick. In each case the door frames must not get wet again or they will flash rust, pretty much putting you back a square 1. If you decide to galvanize, it might be a good idea to find a place in your area that does chemical stripping. They will throw everything in the tank and it will come out bare steel. You can then patch the bad areas with the door channel sold by our hosts. Then they'll be ready to dip.
          Galvy is expensive in small lots. Generally $250 for up to 500lbs, If you can get a lot of stuff or a group order it then becomes very economical.
          If I were just doing door frames I think I'd probably do the home acid dip followed by a dip in paint as suggested above.

          Comment

          • stomper
            5th Gear
            • Apr 2007
            • 889

            #20
            The poor original poster was inquiring about bolting on a couple of new doors. In itself, not a very difficult task, and can be done with minimal difficulty by a beginning wrench turner. Now you are suggesting to him that he weld, chemical dip in heavy chemicals, pay for galvanizing, source parts from other vendors as our hosts offerings are "junk", and have everything torn appart and reassembled.

            I actually know what I am doing around a Land Rover, and even I'm seeing stars and dollar signs swirling over my head! Buy some doors, swap the hardware over, slap some paint on them and drink a beer. Done!

            No wonder no one frequents this forum anymore!
            Bad gas mileage gets you to some of the greatest places on earth.

            Comment

            • TedW
              5th Gear
              • Feb 2007
              • 887

              #21
              In my view the replacement door I bought from Rovers North is every bit as good as an original one I have. And yes, the RN door is a ProLine.

              Ted

              Comment

              • o2batsea
                Overdrive
                • Oct 2006
                • 1199

                #22
                Originally posted by stomper
                The poor original poster was inquiring about bolting on a couple of new doors.
                You should look at that again.

                Now you are suggesting to him that he weld, chemical dip in heavy chemicals, pay for galvanizing, source parts from other vendors as our hosts offerings are "junk", and have everything torn appart (sic) and reassembled.
                He is repainting the whole truck. I don't know if that's being done professionally or with cans of Krylon in the driveway, or with a pan and roller or somewhere in the middle of all that. He doesn't say.

                I never wrote that the doors that RN sells are "junk", they are reproduction. They are absolutely fine for anyone who doesn't care about keeping the original parts. Even Rover parts don't last forever. I actually considered those for a while until I went and redid my existing ones.
                I think it's good to offer what I know as I have made the mistakes already, and paid the money. If the OP wishes to, they may take that for what it's worth.

                Comment

                • o2batsea
                  Overdrive
                  • Oct 2006
                  • 1199

                  #23
                  Originally posted by TedW
                  In my view the replacement door I bought from Rovers North is every bit as good as an original one I have. And yes, the RN door is a ProLine.

                  Ted
                  And they are priced very attractively to boot. Go ask Ike what he wants for a good rust free 2A door that isn't mushed, if he can even find you one.

                  Comment

                  Working...