Separating Tansfer Case from the Transmission

[amcordo]

Before anyone says it: I can't find my green bible, so I don't have it to reference right now. I'll have to order another one.

I have the transfer case and transmission on my floor and I've removed the bolts connecting the two. Do I pry them apart, or do I need to open them up and do anything on the inside first? Don't want to damage the casing.

[I Leak Oil]

There are more hidden treasures holding it together on the inside. you need to remove the pan and drop out the intermediate gear cluster. You will then see the genious of the rover engineers....

[amcordo]

Thank you, Jason.

Genius. The same people who brought us this: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ht0dJHpBIW...k/s1600/A1.jpg

[east high]

Under the rear bearing housing is the castelated main shaft lock nut. A special socket socket is required to remove it, or you can bubba it off with a punch and BFH. Once that is off the rest of the gears can be removed from the shaft and the t-box will separate from the gearbox.

What are you doing? I'm smack in the middle of rebuilding a transmission, so I might be able to add some fresh insight for you.

[amcordo]

Removing the stock transmission and installing an Advanced Adapters adapter with an SM465 and a new short block chevy.

[blue bomber]

Glad to see you are getting on with the swap. GET the green bible,
Cheers, Matthew.

[SafeAirOne]

Is there something wrong with the old transmission or you just doing an upgrade?

[I Leak Oil]

Removing the stock transmission and installing an Advanced Adapters adapter with an SM465 and a new short block chevy.

Get with the program Mark...

[SafeAirOne]

Get with the program Mark...

That's as "with the program" as I get at 5:53 AM.


Too bad the old transmission's in Ohio--I've been keeping my eye out for a unit to replace my tired one.

[rwollschlager]

That's as "with the program" as I get at 5:53 AM.


Too bad the old transmission's in Ohio--I've been keeping my eye out for a unit to replace my tired one.

Need a series III transmission rebuild candidate? ... I have a pile of them.

[SafeAirOne]

Need a series III transmission rebuild candidate? ... I have a pile of them.

Thanks, Rob--You just made it to #1 on the list of people to contact when the transmission rebuild hits the top of my priority list (it's climbing the charts rapidly with all the layshaft noise it's making).

[amcordo]

Yeah, if anyone's near Ohio I've got the transmission and a pile o' parts for it now.

[amcordo]

So about removing this thing...
-What's the name of this part?
-What's the name of the removal tool?
-If I just use a punch, which way am I rotating it to remove (from rear, clockwise, cclockwise?)
-Any special instructions for removing it, aside from locking the transmission so it doesn't rotate?

[I Leak Oil]

There is a locking tab that needs to be bent back then you should be able to use a drift and a hammer to remove the nut. Looks like a regular lefty loosy thread.
I don't think it's necessary to remove the output gear to remove the intermediate cluster but if you plan on using it on your new setup you may as well.

[amcordo]

I do have to remove it for what I'm up to, but now I'm also confused (not hard to do since this is the first gearbox I've ever seen let alone touched).

Under the rear bearing housing is the castelated main shaft lock nut. A special socket socket is required to remove it, or you can bubba it off with a punch and BFH. Once that is off the rest of the gears can be removed from the shaft and the t-box will separate from the gearbox.

What is the castelated main shaft lock nut that I need to go at?