No Charge or Oil light

[gogo34]

Team:

I went out to fire up my '66 IIa (positive earth & Generator) and I can't get it to "catch." It's getting gas and the battery is fully charged but it won't start. The Oil and Charge lights don't come on although they always did in the past. It was running fine last week but, I accidentally left a switch on and drained the battery. I thought the low battery was the problem so I charged it up but, I still can't get it to start. It can't be a coincidence that it was starting fine until I left the switch on and now it doesn't. I've checked the wiring and grounds and they seem to be fine and since I haven't touch it since it was running last weekend I think it's got be due to letting the battery drain.

Any suggestions? Generator is original but, that shouldn't keep it from starting...or the oil and charge lights from coming on...should it?

Thanks.

[LaneRover]

I could be wrong but if you aren't getting the charge or oil light coming on to me that says that the ignition circuit isn't 'coming on' when you turn the key to the on position before you use the starter button.

[gogo34]

I could be wrong but if you aren't getting the charge or oil light coming on to me that says that the ignition circuit isn't 'coming on' when you turn the key to the on position before you use the starter button.

I think your right. I've discovered that everything coming off the A3 and A4 fuse "tabs" are not working. So I suspect that turning the key in the ignition switch isn't sending any juice through. Therefore, everything dependent on the ignition being hot, is dead. The headlights work but they aren't controlled by the ignition key. I think it may be time to replace the ignition. I took it apart a few months ago and cleaned it up pretty well but it must be done.

Can these things be rebuilt or is it just easier to buy a new one?

[o2batsea]

There aren't any "new" 2A ignition switches. You can only buy reproduction nowadays. "Lucas" has been out of business for quite some time. Maybe someone on the forum has a known-good original they would part with. Or clean yours again.

[Jim-ME]

If you can't get one from Ike Goss check Ebay UK.
Jim

[Les Parker]

The original can be fixed, if you have a load of patience and a steady hand.
Generally the contacts inside get worn, these can be built up with some solder and filed to suit.
I would suggest taking pix as you take it apart, so you remember where the wires go and where all the contacts are inside, also disassemble on a nice clean piece of paper, so no bits go "walk-a-bout".

[JimCT]

switch

or take it apart inside of a zip-lock bag to keep from losing springs and what nots.

The original can be fixed, if you have a load of patience and a steady hand.
Generally the contacts inside get worn, these can be built up with some solder and filed to suit.
I would suggest taking pix as you take it apart, so you remember where the wires go and where all the contacts are inside, also disassemble on a nice clean piece of paper, so no bits go "walk-a-bout".

[busboy]

You could leave the original ignition switch in place and transfer the wires from the back of it to an unused toggle switch on the dash, kind of an anti theft device.

[LaneRover]

You could leave the original ignition switch in place and transfer the wires from the back of it to an unused toggle switch on the dash, kind of an anti theft device.

My first Rover came without a key and was used on an island in Maine and they had this exact set up.

Have you tried using some very fine sand or emery paper on the fuse connections? If they are the round buss type fuses I find that some emery paper around a pencil cleans things up well. Ahhh pencils . . . now that we all use e-mails and no longer use cassette tapes they are still useful!