Series III cuting out

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  • bchene
    Low Range
    • Nov 2006
    • 28

    Series III cuting out

    Have owned LRs for many years, and have used the posts on this forum to address many 'unique' LR issues. I am stumped this time and can not resolve a current problem.
    My current LR is a series iii, rhd 109 ex-mod with a 2.25 gas engine. When accelerating the engine will cut out and go to an idle. After a period of time, 30 seconds to a minute, you can start up again.
    Sitting it will idle all day. When sitting you can goose the throttle, hold it, and it will never cut out.
    The same symptoms occur as you start to go up a hill. Starts out fine but by the top, say 100 yards it will start to buck and go to an idle.

    The following has been done over the last month.
    Fuel lines replaced
    Fuel filter replaced
    Carb replaced with new Weber (old carb was a zenith)
    Fuel pump replaced
    Vacuum lines replaced
    Electronic ignition module replaced
    New dist cap, rotor, wires and plugs
    Coil replaced
    Vacuum advance checked
    Engine valves and timing set

    I have not replaced the dist. Timing advance works well and it holds the setting.
    Questioned the fuel pump lever (lobe) wear. Engine runs great, compression good, oil pressure good. No overt sign of wear within the engine.

    I am at a loss. I am sure I am missing something 'stupid'.
    Any help offered is greatly appreciated.
  • disco2hse
    4th Gear
    • Jul 2010
    • 451

    #2
    Vapour lock?
    Alan

    109 Stage 1 V8 ex-army FFR
    2005 Disco 2 HSE

    http://www.youtube.com/user/alalit

    Comment

    • ArlowCT
      2nd Gear
      • Jul 2008
      • 238

      #3
      I have seen a new fuel line cross threaded and allowing air I to the system only under heavy loads. The truck idled fine and drove ok until it was under a load.

      Comment

      • SafeAirOne
        Overdrive
        • Apr 2008
        • 3435

        #4
        Did you clean the fuel strainer on the end of the fuel pickup tube in the tank? Did you loosen the fuel cap/check for a clogged vent hole?

        Did you evaluate the amount of crud/water in the bottom of the fuel tank? When the malfunction occurs, did you remove a fuel line and check for a sucking sound?

        Did you replace the condensor (if equipped)?
        --Mark

        1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

        0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
        (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

        Comment

        • JimCT
          5th Gear
          • Nov 2006
          • 518

          #5
          fuel tank selector valve

          The fuel tank valve is clogged. Just took mine apart , 68 ambulance and I have no idea how it was even running.


          Originally posted by SafeAirOne
          Did you clean the fuel strainer on the end of the fuel pickup tube in the tank? Did you loosen the fuel cap/check for a clogged vent hole?

          Did you evaluate the amount of crud/water in the bottom of the fuel tank? When the malfunction occurs, did you remove a fuel line and check for a sucking sound?

          Did you replace the condensor (if equipped)?
          1968 battlefield ambulance/camper
          1963 Unimog Radio box
          1995 LWB RR

          Comment

          • bchene
            Low Range
            • Nov 2006
            • 28

            #6
            Thanks for the notes.
            I checked the fittings at the tank, pump and carb. They seem to be even and tight.
            I have run the LR with the fuel cap off, no difference.
            The filter at the pickup tube has been removed and the tube cleaned. Tank also cleaned.
            Under seat fuel tank valve/switch is bypassed with an in line fitting.
            I have not been able to check on the 'sucking', but the new fuel lines are transparent and no bubbles are visible when running.

            I do not know how to check for vapour lock. Or what it is.

            Further thoughts?

            Comment

            • ArlowCT
              2nd Gear
              • Jul 2008
              • 238

              #7
              My weber card has a filter screen inside it right under where the fuel line connects. Small hex plug removes and comes out with the screen. I have had that plug.

              Sounds like it may be a bad fuel pump. I know some people have not been having great luck with them lately. Could be worth putting your old one back on or trying another new one.

              Comment

              • bugeye88
                1st Gear
                • Apr 2013
                • 167

                #8
                You could also consider an inline low pressure electric fuel pump, with an on/off switch in the dash. This does several good things, first it will fill the float chamber of the carb for easy starts, it will help deliver fuel to the carb when fuel pump issues arise with your mechanical pump, and it reduces or eliminates vapor lock issues related to fuel line boiling. There are many pumps ou there which will fill the bill. I use a Facet pump. Oh, also place an inline fuel filter before the carb, especially with a Weber 34 ICT as they are very sensitive to crap in the fuel.

                Rob

                Comment

                • ArlowCT
                  2nd Gear
                  • Jul 2008
                  • 238

                  #9
                  I too run only a electric pump. I was just feed up with all the issues I had with mechanical pumps. It may have been that day on the mass pike when I had my bonnet in the back of the truck because of vapor lock issues that I said enough is enough!

                  Comment

                  • disco2hse
                    4th Gear
                    • Jul 2010
                    • 451

                    #10
                    Originally posted by bchene
                    Thanks for the notes.
                    I checked the fittings at the tank, pump and carb. They seem to be even and tight.
                    I have run the LR with the fuel cap off, no difference.
                    The filter at the pickup tube has been removed and the tube cleaned. Tank also cleaned.
                    Under seat fuel tank valve/switch is bypassed with an in line fitting.
                    I have not been able to check on the 'sucking', but the new fuel lines are transparent and no bubbles are visible when running.

                    I do not know how to check for vapour lock. Or what it is.

                    Further thoughts?
                    This ought to help: http://bennettpump.com/uploads/file_...por%20Lock.pdf

                    and this...
                    Alan

                    109 Stage 1 V8 ex-army FFR
                    2005 Disco 2 HSE

                    http://www.youtube.com/user/alalit

                    Comment

                    • bchene
                      Low Range
                      • Nov 2006
                      • 28

                      #11
                      I checked the weber filter, nice and clean.
                      Will look into the electric option. Hopefully I can find one to try before purchasing.
                      Does anyone think the distributor could be causing the issue. The advance checks out, but, could the whole unit be out of whack in some way? I have the old distributor from before the electronic conversion. Is it worth the work to try it?

                      Comment

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