Crank Pulley Bolt and Seal

[SafeAirOne]

Huh. That's weird--It must look different in person:



If it were me, I'd take the extra time and effort to remove the rivets in a manner that won't leave any metal parts adrift anywhere in the engine.

[rbbailey]

The end looks just like a twisted off bolt to me, but whatever. Oh, and the inside is the mirror image of what you see on the end of the bolt.

I hope you're right!

[SafeAirOne]

Well, I think the concern then is that the portion you have will bottom out on the part left inside the crankshaft and not fully tighten down against the pulley flange when you go to reinstall the bolt. You might order a new bolt to compare or have someone measure a new example to see how much is left in the crankshaft. At least that way, you'll know exactly what you're dealing with.

[NC_Mule]

Hummmm...

I think it is broken. The end looks just like a sheared axle, and the threads don't come to a nice end, they look ripped.

HOWEVER! I did finally get the pulley off, and I'm now able to visualize how this all goes together (not knowing how the parts fit to one another makes it hard to figure out what to do next, you know?) And I think the bolt, broken or not, has enough thread on it to reuse.

So, I'm going to proceed as normal.

Drill out the rivets now. I assume they will fall inside and out through the oil pan?
Is the seal held in by the mud shield, or is there another piece I don't know about?
What else do I need to know?

Thanks for the help!

Pulling the front cover off is not that hard. I would take the extra time and pull the cover, drill the rivits out on the work bench. Saving a few hours labor is not worth having a rivet end up cycling through the engine till it causes damage.

[JimCT]

bolt

All you are looking at is the tit left when they parted off the bolt. Nothing is broken

Well, I think the concern then is that the portion you have will bottom out on the part left inside the crankshaft and not fully tighten down against the pulley flange when you go to reinstall the bolt. You might order a new bolt to compare or have someone measure a new example to see how much is left in the crankshaft. At least that way, you'll know exactly what you're dealing with.

[SafeAirOne]

All you are looking at is the tit left when they parted off the bolt. Nothing is broken

I think so too, but I'm giving him the benefit of the doubt. Plus, what's it going to hurt to get a new bolt and compare them?

Probably be easier to just compare the depth of the hole to the length of the bolt, though.

[westcoastkevin]

I think it is not broken either.
There is a lock tab washer on my S1.
If the OP is really afraid about it bottoming out, put a washer on it or grind 0.050" off the end of the bolt.
The mud shield mod might be a bit much here. Put a seal in, bolt it up and drive it.

[rbbailey]

I'm moving ahead with the seal swap, broken or no. I hope you are all correct, so I'm acting like you are!

If my pulley flies off and explodes through my bonnet 20 miles down the road, I'll know who to come yelling at.

If my oil pan is already removed, is it easy enough to retrieve the rivet bits, or does the front cover really need to come off as well?

[Jim-ME]

When i did mine we drilled from the front of the engine in and caught them with a large magnet. This was done on a lift so it was fairly easy to catch them. I did not have to take the front cover off.
Jim

[Revtor]

even if the bolt is broken (looks like, as Jim said, the result of the parting cut on a lathe) there is more than enough thread left to keep that sucker on..

~Steve

[rbbailey]

So I have the dust cover off, but now I'm confused about the seal itself. It does not look like the replacement I have in hand, and I can't tell if I have to push it in or out to get it off of the vehicle.

The one on the vehicle has a rubber lip, but the edge is metal. The one I have in hand is all rubber and is not the same shape, but it is the same size.

It certainly is not just held in there by the dust cover, it appears to be mounted from the inside of the engine cover.

[SafeAirOne]

Just follow the instructions in the book. You can't go wrong.

[rbbailey]

All it says is drive it out. I'm asking about technique.

[SafeAirOne]

1) Remove exposed rivet head by either drilling or chiseling.
2) Get a small drift (punch) and tap the body out using a hammer, the side of a big crescent wrench or a rock from the front yard.

[rbbailey]

OK... so I took the cover off and drilled out the rivets. I had to cut the old seal out. Cleaned everything up, got the surfaces all prepped for new gaskets, etc... Then I started working on the tapping of the holes to use M4 bolts. Fine. Went onto Youtube and watched a couple of videos on how to do it. Fine. Pretty easy.

Working the tap in, got a few threads in, backed it out, forward again. Tested the hole so far. Fine. Works with the new bolt.

Start working the tap to finish the first hole. Three seconds in and the tap shatters into four pieces -- one of them is lodged in the hole.

So pissed that I basically just walk away and start opening up the Rovers North batch of new brake lines. I pulled off all the old ones, bend up and fit the new ones, start threading them together and none of them fit. They all have defective threads or tapered ends and won't go into the current fittings on the truck.

Pissed. So I decide to take a drive and pick up the brake fluid that is needed to complete the job once I get the brake lines figured out. Turns out NAPA does not sell fluid that works with the old style natural rubber seals anymore.

All of this just today.