Starts but won't run - please help

[gogo34]

I'm beginning to think I may not have the patience to be a Rover owner! My latest turmoil is that I can't get the '62 IIa to run, after it starts up. With the choke pulled all the way out it starts right up, runs for 3 seconds, then dies out. It was running fine for about 3 weeks and then, about 3 weeks ago, I was driving down the road and it started to sputter and eventually died on the side of the road. I tried in vain to start it back up but eventually had my friendly neighborhood AAA guy come tow me home. I cleaned out the carb again, checked the floats, the jets, gaskets, etc. and still couldn't get it to run. Then, I ordered a Pertronix ignition module and installed that. After that install, it started and purred like a kitten for about 2 mins. I shut it off and had to pack and leave for a business trip thinking I'd fixed the problem. I took that as a sign from the Rover Gods that my previous points/condenser were on the fritz and I had fixed the problem.

Well, I got home early today from work with the intention of taking the Rover out for a spin and it died in the driveway.

Why won't it run?!! Why does it need full choke now, all of the sudden? It never needed it before. I have new plugs, wires, Pertronix ignition coil, clean out carb.

Do you think it could be bad gas? It gets gas from the fuel pump because I've checked that but when it starts and then dies, it sounds like it's starved for fuel. I've read on this forum several times that bad ignition often masquerades as fuel starvation but I figured the Pertronix ignition fixed that. And since it starts, I guess that means the coil and new Pertronix ignition are working?

Somebody, please impart some wisdom. Otherwise, I'm libel to just scrap the damn thing and go buy an International Harvester...(who'm I kiddin', I probably couldn't get that to run either)...

Al

[SafeAirOne]

Keep your chin up, brother! Soon you'll have enough "Series Rover lifestyle" under your belt to accurately identify the top two causes for your most recent breakdown. Land Rover has been training motorists to be mechanics for almost 65 years now.

If you have to pull out full choke to keep it running when it's warm, I'd say you have a fuel delivery or mixture issue. Do you have any fuel filters that need changing? Did you clean the sediment screen on the fuel pickup tube in the tank? Is there water in the bottom of the tank? Do you have any vacuum leaks? Are any of the carb fuel passages obstructed? Is the fuel bowl on the carb filling properly?

Those'd be the questions I would be asking myself if I was cursed with a petrol engine.

[gwmaxhunter]

Hi all. there is a pipe going into the gas tank held in with 2 screws. pull this pipe out there is normally a deteriorated screen over the end full of poop. i ripped all this off mine an put an in line filter prior to the fuel pump. also up the pipe there is about 4 to 6 inches of poop gumming up the tube. i have cleaned this out with long drill bits. now i make a point of doing this to every fuel tank that is going to be used. i dont replace the screen i want any poop big enough to go up the pipe to go into the filter this is alot easier to change. heads up and rover on brother.......................

[NC_Mule]

Water in the tank could be causing this problem.....worth checking for. Pull your gas line off the carb and stick it in a spotless clean (as in no water droplets inside if you use a clear water bottle) Might have to have someone hold the bottle while you crank. Get a few inches of gas in the bottle. Hold the bottle at a 45 deg angle and with in 2-3 seconds you will see the water settle to the lowest point in the bottle.

Another way to spot water in the tank is to pull a spark plug, if it looks steam cleaned then it is in fact being steamed cleaned.

pb

[bugeye88]

What Carb are you running?

Rob

[gogo34]

What Carb are you running?

Rob

I've got a recently rebuilt Rochester that until this whole debacle started was running fine. Does the fact that it starts on command (albeit with the choke way out) rule out the distributor and Pertronix system? Since the problem started before I installed it and essentially persists afterwards, I'm hoping to eliminate potential contributors. I was very encouraged when it fired right up and idled wonderfully after the Pertronix install.

The fuel pump is new but I'll check the screen and diaphragm.

I'll also try cleaning out the supply lines and checking for water in the system, then report back.

Thanks

[bugeye88]

Sounds more like a fuel supply problem than an ignition thing. A partially clogged line, carb jet, tank intake line, could be it, or the fuel pump may have succumbed to ethanol fuel. (You do use a ethanol treatment, right?) You can pull the fuel line after the pump and have someone crank it over while you hold the line over a can and see if the fuel is being pumped properly. See, it sounds like the float bowel fills just enough to start, but can't keep up with demand when you have it cranked up.

Rob
68 Bugeye 88

[gogo34]

Sounds more like a fuel supply problem than an ignition thing. A partially clogged line, carb jet, tank intake line, could be it, or the fuel pump may have succumbed to ethanol fuel. (You do use a ethanol treatment, right?) You can pull the fuel line after the pump and have someone crank it over while you hold the line over a can and see if the fuel is being pumped properly. See, it sounds like the float bowel fills just enough to start, but can't keep up with demand when you have it cranked up.

Rob
68 Bugeye 88

Well, I cleaned everything out real well but it didn't solve my problem. I did however stumble across a possible culprit. As I was crawling around underneath, I noticed that when I primed the fuel pump by hand I could see the fuel coming into the glass sediment catcher. So, I pumped it a good bit until it looked like all the air was pushed out of the glass portion then I went around and tried to start it. It fired up as usual but, this time it didn't cut out right away. It ran for a couple minutes then I shut it down. I waited a couple minutes and tried to start it again. This time it started right up as usual but cut off after a few seconds. I crawled underneath again and it looks like there's more air in the glass sediment bowl again, not a lot but enough that I can see air in there. I don't know if this is normal or if my fuel pump is not pumping fast enough to keep up with the demand. I've only had the fuel pump for a year and it can't have 25 miles on it, since I bought it right before I tore the whole thing apart for a rebuild. Is the diaphragm bad on the pump? If so, what are the symptoms? If bad, can you replace just the diaphragm or do I need a whole new pump?

I've just about convinced myself that the problem is fuel supply related and not something else.

[SafeAirOne]

Perhaps the pump works just fine and there is in impediment to the fuel draw. Eliminate the cheap stuff first--A few of us have already recommended that you check the sediment screen on the fuel pickup tube in the tank for blockage (and clean it with a toothbrush while your'e there). What did you find when you did this? Is there an air leak around the sediment bowl seal? Is there an air leak in the line and fittings to the tank? All stuff I'd eliminate before I turn to the pump.

[gogo34]

Perhaps the pump works just fine and there is in impediment to the fuel draw. Eliminate the cheap stuff first--A few of us have already recommended that you check the sediment screen on the fuel pickup tube in the tank for blockage (and clean it with a toothbrush while your'e there). What did you find when you did this? Is there an air leak around the sediment bowl seal? Is there an air leak in the line and fittings to the tank? All stuff I'd eliminate before I turn to the pump.

I pulled the "hard pipe" fuel pickup tube out of the tank and it was clear, as was the tube from the pump to the carb. Tomorrow I'm going to double check the flexible tube the runs from the hard pickup tube pipe at the tank and into the pump itself. The pump appears to work, because when I prime it with 20 or so pumps and then start it up, it runs for a little while then cuts out which means the hand pumping is sending gas to the carb. It ran long enough for me to crawl underneath and see air bubbles coming into the glass bowl. That makes me think it's sucking in air along with a little gas and not keeping up with the carb's demand. There doesn't appear to be a gas leak in the system (i.e. fluid leaking anywhere) but I suppose a small crack/leak in that inlet tube would be a source for air in the system.

Make sense? How can I test for a leak around the sediment bowl seal?

[SafeAirOne]

Make sense? How can I test for a leak around the sediment bowl seal?

Yup. Makes lots of sense. I suppose you could smear a thick fillet of Vaseline around the circumference of the fuel bowl where it meets the pump, sealing off any air leaks and see if this stops the problem. If it does, just order a new seal. Or just get a new seal for it as a matter of course.

If that doesn't help, just replace the fuel line running from the tank to the pump.

[Tsmith]

If the seal for the glass sediment bowl is the cork material often supplied with the rebuild kits, discard it and replace it with a rubber one available from NAPA. The cork seal can harden with time...even in the rebuild box. I believe it is a common size for many AC fuel pumps.

[gogo34]

Perhaps the pump works just fine and there is in impediment to the fuel draw. Eliminate the cheap stuff first--A few of us have already recommended that you check the sediment screen on the fuel pickup tube in the tank for blockage (and clean it with a toothbrush while your'e there). What did you find when you did this? Is there an air leak around the sediment bowl seal? Is there an air leak in the line and fittings to the tank? All stuff I'd eliminate before I turn to the pump.

Well, The Great Pumpkin has come early this year! After fidgeting with just about every aspect of the fuel supply system, I finally decided to pull apart the supply line that runs from the tank to the fuel pump. Although it appeared to be the same material (hard plastic) if viewed from above, it was actually spliced in the middle, underneath the chassis and out of view. The spliced section was about 3 inches long and had a collapsed center that was restricting some of the fuel flow. I replaced that section with some new line, primed the pump and it runs like a champ. Prior to this I had only checked for obstructions on either end. I feel a little stupid but, I'm glad it's back.

Thanks for everyone's help.

[SafeAirOne]

Nice! $10 fix.