109 Frame Off Resto - Work Space Requirements & Hints For Success

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  • JimnNC
    Low Range
    • Mar 2014
    • 19

    #16
    Thanks ALL for the advice, suggestions and sharing your experiences. What I've got from all this is the following:

    1. Keep ALL parts - rusty, damaged, etc.... throw NOTHING away.
    2. Photo & photo more
    3. Bag everything, label the bags & store in labeled bins, etc...link to photo's for reference.
    4. Prep the floor - don't work on the dirt floor if can be helped.
    5. Start disassembly - moving from front to rear.
    6. My idea of a "budget" should allow for tripling & then some.
    7. Engine & gearbox removal - my back is aching thinking about this... but I need to find a friend with an engine hoist :-)

    I will check out the blogs shared - looking forward to that...thanks for sharing guys.
    And I will consider doing one myself. I did not do a good job of capturing for posterity, the motorcycle resto and old house resto work I've done over the years, and regret only having disconnected photos, and even more disconnected memories of what all that work took, and especially the before & after images.

    I do have the applicable shop manuals and the Haynes/Dunstall restoration guide which has been read through a couple times over the years in anticipation of this day finally arriving. And of course there is the wealth of knowledge on this forum that I am sure I'll be calling on for help.

    At my wife's suggestion I've been making some inquiries around town for a suitable covered work area that I can rent to work in for a year or so. Seems like a reasonable idea - to at least get the rolling chassis, bulkhead, engine & drive train work done so maybe the outdoor work shop will fade off into the sunset....

    Cheers for now....

    Jim
    '66 88 Series II a - petrol
    A smattering of old British motorcycles - mostly running

    Comment

    • Escargo
      Low Range
      • May 2008
      • 65

      #17
      If you haven't already, check out the series 2 forum. Several guys across the pond show in detail how they clean and refurbish the original parts, i.e.. carb, fuel pump, etc. Really interesting stuff.

      Comment

      • o2batsea
        Overdrive
        • Oct 2006
        • 1199

        #18
        Well, I dunno. I think taking a bunch of photos really doesn't help that much. It only goes together one way, and the process is well documented. Bagging stuff? yeah maybe. Thing is, you're going to replace all the nuts and bolts with new, and in that case you'll be buying in bulk. You will need about 150-odd 1/4-28 x 3/4 hex head bolts, About half again as many 1" ones. 5/16 x 24 for the door hinges. Also for the rear grab handles. 3/16x1/2 closed end pop rivets about two boxes of 100. If you go with the domed head hammer rivets, you'll also need about 200. If you redo the gutter channel, there are about 100-something 5/32 pan head tube rivets in just the gutter. I used alloy hammer rivets, and cheated by using a pneumatic squeezer. (Thanks Rick!)
        Save the captured nut and bolt plates. Even if they are rusty and cruddy, you can bring them back with a soak in Rust-solve and replating with zinc. They are only available reproduction and they are awful quality. Really awful. And expensive, like $20 per in some cases.
        Rotten doors can be restored as well. You take the skins off, repair and galvanize the frame, and put the skins back on.
        Areas of rotten aluminum will need to be cut out and new metal put in. If you don't tig weld, then you need to learn. It's really the only good way of joining thin aluminum. And we assume you know gas or wire already.
        I would say that you should not try to restore by taking the entire vehicle apart all at once. You should first buy your chassis, new springs and get another set of axles and get the rolling chassis assembled. Then put in the engine and transmission, fuel tank and lines, brake lines, exhaust, and after all that start on the body.

        Comment

        • darbsclt
          1st Gear
          • Jul 2013
          • 162

          #19
          Originally posted by Escargo
          If you haven't already, check out the series 2 forum. Several guys across the pond show in detail how they clean and refurbish the original parts, i.e.. carb, fuel pump, etc. Really interesting stuff.
          Yes!... ^^^...

          You may also want to check out a friend's blog... mud4fun
          I have found it very useful and inspirational.

          o2batsea
          Well, I dunno. I think taking a bunch of photos really doesn't help that much.
          Mechanically, I tend to agree (though I still did it)... Electrically, however, I found photos crucial. It was much easier for me to snap a few photos of switch/gauge/lamp wiring as opposed to spending many frustrating hours scratching my head staring at a wiring digram. (the back of that dang ignition switch still seems like a puzzle to me).

          Comment

          • o2batsea
            Overdrive
            • Oct 2006
            • 1199

            #20
            If it's anything like my 109, the wires were all covered in blackbrown grime, the cloth covering decaying and frayed, and any hope of identifying colors long lost to time. A new harness was installed.

            Comment

            • Partsman
              3rd Gear
              • May 2011
              • 329

              #21
              Originally posted by Escargo
              If you haven't already, check out the series 2 forum. Several guys across the pond show in detail how they clean and refurbish the original parts, i.e.. carb, fuel pump, etc. Really interesting stuff.
              Definitely, check out the restoration by a user named Worf, he did an amazing restoration, and a very detailed thread on it. ^^

              Originally posted by darbsclt
              Yes!... ^^^...

              You may also want to check out a friend's blog... mud4fun
              I have found it very useful and inspirational.



              Mechanically, I tend to agree (though I still did it)... Electrically, however, I found photos crucial. It was much easier for me to snap a few photos of switch/gauge/lamp wiring as opposed to spending many frustrating hours scratching my head staring at a wiring digram. (the back of that dang ignition switch still seems like a puzzle to me).
              I also agree on Mud's blog spot, he's got some great information on there, and very good descriptions. While you're at it, give Terri Ann's site a read, you'll find much of the information and upgrades to be very useful while the truck is apart: http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/


              Series 2 Club Forum


              Andy The Landy Shop

              Comment

              • o2batsea
                Overdrive
                • Oct 2006
                • 1199

                #22
                One thing I will add. The process of restoration as I'm sure you are aware, is filled with hours of great tinkering fun. It can also very easily slip into the realm of "chore to be endured". The end seems very far away. Money is going out the door without any visible results, and an endless upply of roadblocks are popping up. Not to mention that you still have your regular life to live. It is at the low points in the build that you will find yourself wondering why you thought that this would be a good idea. I guess my point is that the greatest challenge is not the truck, but the blob of protein between your ears. Good luck with that, we're here for you.

                Comment

                • 1971Series88
                  1st Gear
                  • Dec 2011
                  • 172

                  #23
                  One more thing...Bill can attest to this...TIME

                  If you plan on moving at all in the next 3 years forget it! Wait. If you plan on doing a full rest like you allude to then you will want at least 3 years in situ
                  1963 Series IIa 109" 5 door Safari top (SOLD to new home)
                  1971 Series IIa 88" Soft top (SOLD to new home)
                  1995 RRC - LWB
                  2001 Discovery II SE7 (SOLD to new home)

                  Comment

                  • o2batsea
                    Overdrive
                    • Oct 2006
                    • 1199

                    #24
                    Originally posted by 1971Series88
                    One more thing...Bill can attest to this...TIME

                    If you plan on moving at all in the next 3 years forget it! Wait. If you plan on doing a full rest like you allude to then you will want at least 3 years in situ
                    Money

                    Comment

                    • darbsclt
                      1st Gear
                      • Jul 2013
                      • 162

                      #25
                      Originally posted by 1971Series88
                      One more thing...Bill can attest to this...TIME
                      Oh... com'on... don't scare the guy!
                      Here some chaps that did "the swap" in 16 hours!

                      Comment

                      • JimnNC
                        Low Range
                        • Mar 2014
                        • 19

                        #26
                        Thanks all - again for the helpful experienced based insight & suggestions.... been adding to my notes.

                        I see in my future a TIG welding class at my local community college... been wanting to do that anyway... just more impetus to do so now.

                        For sure - for me - this will be as much about the journey as the destination - so accordingly there is no intent on my part to put together a 109 version of the 16 hour SWB Series chassis swap shown in the you tube clip shared.

                        Looking forward to perusing the recommended blogs & will wade into the Series 2 forum as well.

                        I now have a bit more time on my hands, so can devote to assembling the first list of stuff to buy while efforts continue to locate a suitable local work space to rent - for at least the first chunk of this project. So until I have that arranged, no point in having heavy - freight shipped stuff delivered to my home address only to have to figure out where to store it & move it later.

                        Can't say thanks enough for all the replies.

                        Oh... and I have added wiring harness to the "gotta get it new" list of stuff. I totally learned my lesson on my British motorcycles. Anything with Mr. Lucas' name on it requires elimination of any and ALL old and potentially cantankerous electrical elements.

                        Cheers all...

                        Jim
                        '66 88 Series II a - petrol
                        A smattering of old British motorcycles - mostly running

                        Comment

                        • Dibsen
                          Low Range
                          • Jan 2013
                          • 55

                          #27
                          If your up for it, I would love to "watch" you do your tear down and build up. I know a lot of time I consider doing a write up after a repair but without a second set of hands, the whole photo journaling thing becomes less important than getting my rover back on the road.

                          Comment

                          • cmcgahagin
                            Low Range
                            • Jul 2012
                            • 22

                            #28
                            Jim,
                            How's the rebuild going? I was reading your post with interest. I have a similar story except I have a two car garage. I bought a '69 IIA back in 86. Being in the military it quickly went into the garage for the next 25 years as my retirement rebuild project. I should be starting my frame up rebuild next spring. So I'm in the process of pulling together ideas, contacts, & lessons learned.
                            Charles
                            Charles
                            '69 Series IIA

                            Comment

                            • JimnNC
                              Low Range
                              • Mar 2014
                              • 19

                              #29
                              Hi all... been a while since I started down this path... albeit in fits & starts.

                              Charles... thanks for your inquiry & interest. Regarding lessons learned and best practices, I would say please see the advice given to me in this thread. Folks here have been great with URL, and input re: best practices.

                              Regarding my project, things took a few detours since I began this post in March. Before digging into the disassemble I sought some local advice to ID salvage-ability of parts where their condition was to me not too clear. This double check cost me a couple hundred dollars and confirmed what I feared about the amount of work required. The good thing that came from this effort, is that as a result of this contact, I was turned on to another parted out 109 up for sale practically in my neighborhood....so with the initial intent of making one good 109 out of two, I raided my project budget and bought what is essentially an 95% intact 109, but with all good parts that my first 109 was lacking for just about what it would have cost me for just a replacement chassis... so I now essentially have 2 109's to deal with. One that is no further along than it was 8 months ago, and one that is in boxes, tubs, on pallets etc...

                              My new plan is to focus on rebuilding the one I just bought... to learn from the assembly process of the new 109, and to then tackle my first intended project once I have rebuilt this disassembled one. I can't bring my self to cannibalize one of there two...I feel a strong obligation to put both right now.

                              So where I stand at this point is I have my original 109 parked in a 1,000 square foot warehouse bay that I am renting. I'll use it for reference during reassembly of the parted out 109.

                              Also in this space are ALL the new 109 parts - the last loads I just hauled in over New Years. It is amazing how easy it was to fill that once cavernous space. I should mention that the new 109 haul also included several miscellaneous non-109 LR parts that came with the deal, that will soon go for sale to make room and help fund things. Clearing those out should make some room.

                              Currently I am in the process of turning this once empty space into a workshop, have built some shelves, a couple work benches and am working on lighting & electric for the space. The warehouse is about 1.5 miles from my house, so is convenient and at $200 a month, not too bad an expense. And the big plus about this space is that it is directly next to a machine & welding shop, so two skills/tools I lack can be supported by my neighbors.

                              My plan... focus this winter on building a rolling chassis.

                              1. Assemble a pile of parts to be stripped & galvanized, to include:
                              Chassis
                              Door HW
                              Bonnet HW
                              Seat HW
                              Bulkhead
                              Misc. Trim bits
                              2. Service axles & suspension while step 1 is being stripped & dipped.
                              Clean
                              Paint
                              Reassemble
                              3. Once parts are back from the galvanizer, mount axles to chassis

                              Next steps...have to refer to the video links & URL's provided here, and of course raise some questions with the experts here & on the Guns & Rover forum.

                              Regarding resto plans... I'm not planning to build a mint LR...just clean it up, put it right, do the work right so it will last, and make it look nice.

                              I'll post up some pics of things as they are, and as things progress, but for now wanted to post up something so folks would know things are still a go, just on a different path now.

                              Cheers all...

                              Jim

                              '64 109 Series II a - petrol - parked & not running
                              '66 109 Series II a - petrol - in pieces but mostly there
                              A smattering of old British motorcycles - mostly running
                              '66 88 Series II a - petrol
                              A smattering of old British motorcycles - mostly running

                              Comment

                              • cedryck
                                5th Gear
                                • Sep 2010
                                • 836

                                #30
                                My two cents,
                                My ex-mod short wheel base took years for me to complete, New frame, engine, drivetrain all rebuilt, new plumbing and wiring harness, paint, interior the whole 9 yards. I guess my best advice it take your time, read, ask questions, look at diagrams before you bust into the transmission, or drive train. I did everything myself, and ended up purchasing tools to do things like a welder to make a bulkhead, pipe flaring tools to make plumbing for clutch and brakes. If you take your time, part out the work you are not familiar with, and assemble properly, you will be happy at the end, and most importantly your truck will start, drive, brake, and server you for many years. cheers,

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