Shifting?

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  • rbbailey
    1st Gear
    • Sep 2010
    • 161

    Shifting?

    OK, so I get to drive the truck so little that I can't tell if I'm doing something wrong all of a sudden, or if there is something wrong with the clutch.

    First: should the clutch be either ON or OFF with no play? If I try to bring the clutch out slowly, as in when backing up or starting slow on a hill or whatever, I get nothing, nothing, nothing, POP, it's in 100%. New master.

    Second: How the hell do you shift down from 3rd to 2nd? I don't ever remember having trouble with this process, but since getting the truck back on the road again, I just can't do it. I've been trying to practice, but no matter what I do, I'm basically destroying the transmission.
  • Cutter
    4th Gear
    • Feb 2009
    • 455

    #2
    That doesn't sound right at all. There should be a feathering of clutch. Downshifting shouldn't be an issue.... Something is amiss.
    _________________________________________
    1986 3.5l 110 SW Austrian Feurwehr

    Comment

    • rbbailey
      1st Gear
      • Sep 2010
      • 161

      #3
      Dang..... New clutch master. I was afraid of this. Seems like everything I do for the truck has to be done twice.

      New clutch and master. New dual brake system. New used engine. All of them failing.

      By the way, my method for shifting down is:
      1. Slow
      2. Clutch in
      3. 3rd to N
      4. Clutch out
      5. Bit of a rev
      6. Clutch in
      7. N to 2nd
      8. Clutch to drive as normal

      Comment

      • NC_Mule
        2nd Gear
        • Mar 2010
        • 222

        #4
        Yeah, that looks like the right sequence to me. I feel like it's a pretty small window to slide in to 2nd from 3rd in a perfect smooth motion, sometime I get a little grab and other times I feel like I did everything perfect and grind the hell out of it.

        Originally posted by rbbailey
        Dang..... New clutch master. I was afraid of this. Seems like everything I do for the truck has to be done twice.

        New clutch and master. New dual brake system. New used engine. All of them failing.

        By the way, my method for shifting down is:
        1. Slow
        2. Clutch in
        3. 3rd to N
        4. Clutch out
        5. Bit of a rev
        6. Clutch in
        7. N to 2nd
        8. Clutch to drive as normal

        Comment

        • luckyjoe
          3rd Gear
          • Oct 2006
          • 335

          #5
          The trick falls between steps 5 & 7 above. Road speed is also important as it dictates your required rev's (step 5). In step 7, when the rev's match and you have ever so slight pressure on the shift lever, you WILL feel a point of low (no) resistance - a void when the lever is almost pulled into 2nd - exactly what you want and a very satisfying feeling.
          Tom P.
          1965 exMoD 109
          1995 RRC LWB w/EAS

          Comment

          • rbbailey
            1st Gear
            • Sep 2010
            • 161

            #6
            I know what you mean about the sweet spot when putting some pressure on the stick into 2nd gear. So it seems that I am doing it right, but.... I don't think I'm THAT bad at it. Could a clutch master issue cause problems with this downshift?

            Comment

            • NC_Mule
              2nd Gear
              • Mar 2010
              • 222

              #7
              I would say no if you don't have any problems upshifting. Earlier in the post you mention a "off/on" type feeling with the clutch. Have you check the specs at the slave? The manual describes some measurements and adjustments.

              Originally posted by rbbailey
              I know what you mean about the sweet spot when putting some pressure on the stick into 2nd gear. So it seems that I am doing it right, but.... I don't think I'm THAT bad at it. Could a clutch master issue cause problems with this downshift?

              Comment

              • SafeAirOne
                Overdrive
                • Apr 2008
                • 3435

                #8
                If, while you are releasing the clutch pedal (engaging the clutch), you come to a point where you have no pushback through the pedal, except from the return springs above the pedal, then suddenly a "bang!" and you have lots of pushback and you get whiplash from the clutch suddenly engaging, then I'd say there's a problem.

                MC or slave piston getting hung up in the cylinder bore would be my guess. This has happened to me before, (on a 3-week new cylinder) to the extent that I had to work the pedal to get the piston to come back out every time. Can't remember whether it was brakes or clutch...

                Needless to say, the cylinder got returned to the seller and replaced lickety-split.
                --Mark

                1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

                0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
                (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

                Comment

                • rbbailey
                  1st Gear
                  • Sep 2010
                  • 161

                  #9
                  That sounds like what is happening, but not as extreme. Maybe it's starting to go that direction.

                  I did take it for a drive tonight, and specifically went places where I could practice the shifting to see if I could get it to work the way I remember it working. I think I got a bit better, but the clutch pedal itself still seems to be iffy. I'll be taking it in on Monday or Tuesday. Now that the thing is up and running, I just want to get it tweaked by a pro so I will know what it is supposed to be like.

                  Comment

                  • Escargo
                    Low Range
                    • May 2008
                    • 65

                    #10
                    I think in your eight step downshifting senario, you need to switch #5 and #6. It's the reving of the layshaft that lets the gear change (maybe not the right explanation). Anyway, having just replaced a master and slave and not liking the initial results, I can only suggest to follow the GB and get ALL the pedal and shaft measurements/adjustments correct. My clutch engages/disengages up near the top of the pedal travel unlike it's previous condition, but it works and now I'm used to it.

                    Comment

                    • Jester065
                      Low Range
                      • Feb 2014
                      • 21

                      #11
                      I have owned my lady for about a year and a half and I lover her. I under stand the unsynchronized transmission and i do well from first to second, but going from third to second or when i go from second to neutral because i think i am going to stop at a light, but it turns green going from rolling neutral to second gets me. Does anyone have any tips? I see some talk about MC. I am assuming we are talking master cylinder? Please put answers in a form a newie can understand. Thank you for your help.
                      1960 Series II 109 Station Wagon

                      Comment

                      • LaneRover
                        Overdrive
                        • Oct 2006
                        • 1743

                        #12
                        Yes MC is Master Cylinder.

                        With my truck it sometimes helps to shift it into 3rd or 4th and then into 2nd, 1st or reverse.

                        This helps if I am downshifting into 2nd when I thought I would be stopping like your scenario above.
                        1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
                        1965 109 SW - nearly running well
                        1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
                        1969 109 P-UP

                        http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...2&l=64cfe23aa2

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