Om617 in my SIII

[Dibsen]

Who is selling the adapter plate and modified oil pan, and how much do they cost?

Anyone done this recently?

I am getting ready to pull an 617 from a 300. Clean the garage tonight and I should have the motor out tomorrow

[bmoreclassic]

Who is selling the adapter plate and modified oil pan, and how much do they cost?

Anyone done this recently?

I am getting ready to pull an 617 from a 300. Clean the garage tonight and I should have the motor out tomorrow

Robert Davis in Virginia has kit on Ebay for 3000ish.. I haven't seen it but I think he's the only person providing a full kit.

[Dibsen]

Not really looking for a "kit" and I am certainly not paying anything close to $3k!! haha talk about a laugh

I am looking for the adapter plate and the modified oil pan that has been clearanced for the front axle. Now I might need a flywheel too but I am looking at some options for that.

[east high]

The adapter plate and the modified oil pan that has been clearanced for the front axle.

That is the kit.

[CMorris]

The only one I've known over the years to make just adapter plates for this conversion is Jim Young, Series trek, and he no longer makes them. You'll need the MB motor plate, tranny bell housing, and someone very skilled on a Bridgeport mill to fabricate an adapter. Flywheels are still available new from your local Mercedes dealer ($400 - $500). Oil pan is relatively easy to modify, you will need someone skilled in aluminum welding for the upper pan. Fun project.

[I Leak Oil]

You might have better luck contacting Jim on the GnR board, Mercedesrover. I doubt he has any parts laying around but I'm sure he'll be happy to give you a few tips.

[Dibsen]

You might have better luck contacting Jim on the GnR board, Mercedesrover. I doubt
he has any parts laying around but I'm sure he'll be happy to give you a few tips.

Thanks.

I guess I don't consider two parts a kit, and I don't see how an oil pan and an adapter plat could cost more that $800.

http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=181180192130

This is Rdavis's kit. Looks nice but it's pricy

[bmoreclassic]

I agree that 3k is pretty steep.. Personally I'd love to seem him just sell the lower oil pan. There's a company in PA named Mercedes 4x4 (http://www.mercedesdiesel4x4.com/)with jeep conversion parts which mostly work for rovers.... not for the faint of heart but it's been done.

[rbbailey]

I'm very torn on this issue. I would LOVE to get this engine into my Series, and from what I've seen, the i6 will actually fit in an 88", if you use the right bell housing -- but you may also have to swap or modify your bulkhead. I just talked to a friend of mine who put a 200 into his SWB, and he said he spent $1000.00 on the parts to convert the car to take diesel.

The OM616 or OM617 are both known to be great engines, they are fairly easy to find (I can get a running one tomorrow for $300.00) you would get a tiny bit of performance improvement, tiny bit. And you would still be able to use your cool old Rover transmission -- with an OD, if you want.

So why am I torn? Well, if I go through the conversion process, and it ends up not being what I really hoped it would be, the vehicle is essentially destroyed to me. I'd have to sell it. For me, it actually is important to have a bit of control over the noise and vibes. I like the old, tractor feel, but only to a certain point! I want this to be a daily driver. I have kids, a wife, etc...

The cost of the engine may be pretty good, but that's because you can get it out of a junk yard -- it would be another grand to do the work to make it worth all the work you are doing to put the engine in! DON'T go through the conversion process only to put an unknown engine in it!

The cost of the conversion kits, is pretty expensive -- $3000.00 is a bit high for what is there. But even at that, there will ALWAYS be more. Let's say another $1000.00 of randomness that you just have to assume you are going to spend.

So as it stands, to go diesel, without paying anyone to do some of the work for you, you are looking at $5000-$7000. I bet I could do the work myself, but it would take me at least a year, and it would probably be frustrating. Others could, I just can't. But lets say you do the whole thing yourself, it's done ...and THEN you can turn the key and see if it is all to your liking.

With all of this said, I think it is still a good option. But! I think it would be a GREAT option for a rebuild. In other words, I might actually do this if I can do it from the ground up, with a new vehicle. I just feel bad hacking into a good original truck, hacking into the unknown.

Other options? Well, I also don't feel like the other option, but it really might be the only other option.

But before going there, here is what I know for a fact I am going to do. I'm going to get my 2.25 repaired properly, and I'm going to stick an overdrive on the transmission. This will get me into the modern world of 55-60 mph. I want to be able to drive my truck. If I can drive it at 60 mph without feeling like I'm destroying the drivetrain, I'll be happy.

I think maybe I need to get my head wrapped around the GM 153, 151, or 181 option. It feels wrong. It just fees wrong. But when you look at those engines, you see an i4 that has more HP, fewer leaks, cheaper parts, etc., etc..... and the engine really does look like an original 2.25. I could pick up one of these engines, rebuilt, for $3k or less. Which, if you remember, is probably cheaper than what you could get the Merc engine for, if you want it to last any amount of time, that is, rebuilt. But more than that, the adapter plate is much less expensive, and the change over to diesel is non-existent.

I would assume that on a SWB Rover, the mpg would go up with the GM engine, you will be driving at pretty much the same speeds, but with out working so hard to make that happen. Add an OD, and you will be cruising easily at 60 mph. Gas engines are quieter, and have fewer vibes than diesels, they just do. Total cost would be something like $4000-$5000, but then there really is no question. Theoretically, the vehicle will not throw any big surprises at you when you turn the key. It should simply be better than it was. And really, if you decide you don't like the conversion, it's a pretty simple process to go back to the original.

So, that's what I think. I really want the diesel, but I just can't justify it in my logical mind. Once the project of actually getting my truck running is done, I may think about a diesel build on a new frame.

[o2batsea]

I can only speak for myself. I used to have a unmolested 2.25 diesel LHD 2A 109 wagon with all the deluxe trim. Then I got impatient with how slow and noisy it was. I proceeded to tear out all the diesel and put in a V8. In my haste to get it in there I cut corners and goober welded stuff together. After it was "finished" it ran well enough but eventually it blew the transfer case. It sat for years before i finally decided to tear it all apart and redo it the proper way.
I love where it is now, but deep down I wish I had never messed with it. As they say it's only original once.

[rbbailey]

Right now, I think that's where I am. I pretty much agree. If I can get the engine (my second one in a year) to run for a year, I can get the OD and be happy. I think the idea of putting the GM i4 or even i6 in might be the right choice for a bit of an upgrade without "changing" what an old Rover essentially is. And the only reason to do this is to make it able to drive 200 miles for a good camping trip.

[SafeAirOne]

If all you're looking for is range, then a 2.5NAD is almost as bolt-in as you can get in order pull 300 mile/tank range (of course you also get the reliability, if that matters to you), and you retain all the um..."performance"...that the 2.25P possessed.

[rbbailey]

Yeah, that has crossed my mind, but I don't like the extreme noise and such I've seen on the 2.5/200Tdi conversions -- several of them in my area can be heard from half a mile down the road, the drivers have to wear ear protection while on normal streets. I don't get why they are SO LOUD!

Did you convert yours, or did it come that way?

But I actually didn't mean range in the tank, I mean the reliability to go that far... and back. And the ability to do it in a day. Essentially, I want to be able to go on a modern highway without causing a news story about the traffic tie-up I create.

[stomper]

Meh, I drove my 2.25 on 3 trips last summer, all over 600miles round trip. I push it up to 65 on the highway if I need to, but it really prefers 55-60.

[SafeAirOne]

Yeah, that has crossed my mind, but I don't like the extreme noise and such I've seen on the 2.5/200Tdi conversions

Can't argue with you there. I failed a hearing test after driving to work. I had to wear earplugs on the drive in the next morning when I did the hearing test re-take.

Did you convert yours, or did it come that way?

I converted.