Valve Guide and Seal O Ring replacement

[chuckstp]

After removing the head of the '64 Series IIA and removing the valves, I happened upon another issue. There is a chip in the head of one of the exhaust valve guides. Best I can tell, I pretty much need a machine shop to replace it, but that leads to a few questions.

The chip doesn't go down as far as the O ring, so it is possible it is just cosmetic, but it seems that if possible it should be replaced. The guides I see on Rovers North look very different than what I have. Presumably I have the old style which I didn't find.

Is it reasonable to replace just the one valve guide with the new style, and will it even fit?
Does the new style guide require a new valve?
I have two other exhaust valves wanting to be replaced, would I need new guides for them?
For the old style guides, if I were to try and replace the seals, what is the best way to remove and install them?

[SafeAirOne]

The chip doesn't go down as far as the O ring, so it is possible it is just cosmetic, but it seems that if possible it should be replaced. The guides I see on Rovers North look very different than what I have. Presumably I have the old style which I didn't find.

Is it reasonable to replace just the one valve guide with the new style, and will it even fit?
Does the new style guide require a new valve?
I have two other exhaust valves wanting to be replaced, would I need new guides for them?
For the old style guides, if I were to try and replace the seals, what is the best way to remove and install them?

To me, this is one of those situations where if you are going to replace one valve guide and 2 valves on an engine that's already apart and on an engine that you want to continue to run till eternity, it would probably be wise just to replace ALL the guides, ALL the valves and ALL the seals. You know, a routine valve job.

If the engine is ragged out and you just want to get by till you have more spare cash lying around and can do the full job, just replace the 2 valves and however many seals and drive it till it don't drive anymore.

[o2batsea]

If you are in that deep, replace all the valve guides.

[chuckstp]

The big concern is that the new style guides are interchangeable with the old ones. It sounds like they are. It looks like they are certainly more serviceable than the old ones. My assumption is that I shouldn't have to see them again for quite some time though. I hope to get to the point where I am putting things back together rather than taking them apart, but I suppose I'll have to put that off for just a bit longer.

Thanks for the input.

[jac04]

For the old style guides, if I were to try and replace the seals, what is the best way to remove and install them?

Carefully pick them out - I used a dental pick. Put some oil on the new o-rings and carefully install them. It's quite easy.

[chuckstp]

I got the head back today with the new exhaust valve, and am in the process of re-installing the valves with the new gasket set. Now a new challenge presents itself. There are two sets of valve gaskets which presumably are for the input and exhaust valves and of course are unidentified.

One set is slightly smaller in diameter and contains a spring on the shoulder the around circumference of guide while the larger of the two does not contain a spring. My assumption is the larger is the one for the exhaust, but looking at the pictures of the parts on the web, both seem to contain a spring. The manual doesn't seem to be of any help here.

Can anyone confirm whether the larger diameter is the exhaust, and whether they should or should not have the spring?

[SafeAirOne]

What are the part numbers on the bags for the valve stem seals?

[Les Parker]

Try mic-ing the stems of the valves, exhaust should vary from inlet. Though if my memory serves me correctly, the seal with the spring should go on the exhaust valve.

[chuckstp]

The problem is there are no part numbers on the bag anywhere. All of them came in the same zip-lock bag along with some copper washers and rubber O-Rings. Anyway, since the shaft of the exhaust valves are larger, I used the larger of the two and swiped the spring from the inlet seal and put it on prior to installing it.

[Donnie]

While we are discussing valve guides/ seals...A little off topic: Having never been in a 2.6 European 6 cyl. Can anyone tell me how the valve guide's are sealed on these engines? I'm starting to suspect my intake's are pulling some oel in past them.
Do they use an umbrella seal that rides up & down with the valve? Or use a positive seal that presses onto the guide & the valve slides up & down inside it..Or use a small ring like the General Motors engine that seals only the top retainer...
I have never had the occasion to pull my valve cover as my truck is used less than 400 miles per year...I can hear the valves, but none are excessively quiet or noisy.. Truck is used in the summer to go once weekly to the antique/flea mkt...Parked in the winter & NEVER driven in the salt....IT IS A GREAT FLEA MARKET TRUCK......... want to keep it...........thanks, Donnie

[Donnie]

Possibly I am being overlooked because my question was a bit "off topic"...or maybe no one on here has ever had the head apart on one of the engines..Hardly think so, but ????????????????????
Perhaps I SHOULD START A NEW THREAD....................................anyone, comments??
If you think that I should start "European 6 cyl head/ valve questions" I may get more response , let me know.........Donnie

[SafeAirOne]

...maybe no one on here has ever had the head apart on one of the engines.

Yes, very few of the rare individuals who still run NADA 6 cylinder engines and participate in on-line forums have probably had the pleasure of disassembling their engine to this level recently enough to have an accurate recollection of their own valve stem seals and the euro-spec 6 cylinder engines are even rarer, as you know. That'd be my guess as to the reason for the absence of responses to your previous query.

Of course, you are correct in that a separate thread would attract more attention to the fact that you seek data that is different than that implied by title or earlier discourse associated with this thread.

All I can offer on the subject at hand is this:




As this diagram was taken from the 1988 SIII Parts Catalogue and there are no annotations for different engine numbers or sales regions, I feel it's safe to presume that everything shown here is common to ALL 2.6 petrol engines, including NADA and euro engines.

The above diagram details the inlet valve stem seal type. Having located the exhaust valve guides following a 10 minute search, it would seem that the exhaust valves do not employ oil seals as the stems point downward into the camshaft bay in the block. I may be wrong on this though--I don't believe seals would be necessary on the exhaust valve stems in this configuration and I sure as heck can't find anything in the book that looks like a valve stem seal for the exhausts.

[Donnie]

Thanks Mark, you have answered my question. If there is an "O" ring captive in the spring retainer...This is the same method that General motors used forever.. They can't escape & are pretty bullet proof to the extent that they provide run off for the oel to leave the spring a safe distance from the guide......My friend added some Marvel Mystery Oel to the fuel tank a while back, but he cant recall how much......That may be what I am seeing...The clutch slave is leaking so I can't drive it enough to run it anywhere until spring...I only start it about once a week to keep it lubed up & the battery charged....Not much smoke, but more than I like....
I will wait till spring, rebuild the slave cyl & get new fuel in it & drive it...I may be upset for naught....thanks, Donnie

[chuckstp]

I've got a similar situation except I can't drive mine at all. Got the clutch working yesterday to find the leak in the break master cylinder. Only thing is I've decided to suffer the cold as much as I can and try to get her running. At least it's only cold enough to numb the body parts and not cause frostbite.