Overheating?

[slowmo]

More questions from the Noob.

My TR3 has a very small radiator and was prone to overheating. I work in Reno, NV at an elevation of 4400' and live in the mountains at 6000'. Going up the highway after work I noticed I never took my eyes of the temp gauge in the non-winter months. I installed an oil cooler, electric fan, and made sure the baffles focused the air to the radiator and the problem was kind of gone...still an undersized radiator for my particular application but it was way better.

Should I prepare for a similar fix on my 1971 Series IIa? I note that in my "new" truck, there are signs of overheating events with that ugly rusty radiator excrement sprayed in the engine compartment. Anyone install an oil cooler and electric fan? What about a transmission oil cooler? Stupid idea? BTW I am flushing the radiator, heater core, replacing all hoses, thermostat, water pump and all that stuff.

Another question. To spin or not to spin? I am of course talking about the oil filter adapter. Generally I like to stay stock, but this is one area where I have always made the compromise. Those dang cartridge filters are a royal pain in the...well...you know.
David

[o2batsea]

Suggest that you try it before "fixing" it. The Rover radiator is plenty big for that engine and should be fine without any of those mods. However, if it is crudded up and your water pump has seen better days you may find it getting warm. Use the old open up the heater valve trick.
The spin on filter is the shiz. Nothing like the anticipation of that last thread on the cartridge center bolt coming loose to drown your arm in engine oil. You can always return it to the cartridge should you become nostalgic for that kind of madness.

[slowmo]

Ok. I'll wait on the cooling issue.

Agreed on the spin on!

Thanks

[lumpydog]

Rover engines are pretty over-cooled when working properly.

While you're flushing the engine and radiator - and changing the hoses, might as well swap in a new thermostat. Takes two seals (top and bottom), a rubber O-ring and the thermostat. Some haylomar gasket sealer too, spread thinly on both sides of both seals. Because you're in NV, go for the 74 degree thermostat unit. It will open at a lower temperature. You only need the higher temp ones if you're trying to heat the cabin and purposefully want the engine to run hotter.

I've kept my oil filter old school along with everything else in my truck. I'll admit, changing the filter is best done with the EPA looking the other way... But it's pretty easy to manage it with a large mouth drip pan.

[cedryck]

The normal cooling system on a series rover should not over heat, either with the thin core, or 4 core military style radiator.
I have kept the old school style oil can, as well, yes the warm engine oil running down your hands and arm when the can finally frees itself for the center bolt, is a joy for series car drivers,

[slowmo]

Well, now that I have some winter driving experience I note how ridiculous this thread was. The problem is not overheating at all. The problem is getting ANY heat. Are the winter climate Rover drivers sticking cardboard over the radiator in winter?

[stomper]

Lol, yup, cardboard beer cases, or if you are willing to splurge, RN has a cover you can buy.

[Jim-ME]

It is also worth swapping in the warmest thermostat you can find. I run a 88 degree Celsius year round and find it only actually opens are a few rare days. In Reno you may want to try a 84 degree stat and something to cover the grill.
Jim

[lumpydog]

Jim's advice on the thermostat is good. My earlier advice on the 74 degree thermostat was based on my thinking that it was generally warmer in your part of the world and there was less of a need for heat and more need for cooling. In the Northeast, it's hard to find 88 degree thermostats these days... Use a higher degree stat and it will stay closed longer, preventing the coolant from flowing into the radiator and generally allow the engine to heat up faster and run a little warmer.

Also - consider flushing the heating matrix/core in your heating box. I actually replaced the heater core in mine with a NOS one. The cores have been known to clog up over time and lose efficacy.