Main Bearing Seal

[rbbailey]

Hadn't driven the truck for a while because Oregon in winter... So today I took it out in the cold sun and noticed that the front main seal was putting out two or three drips within a minute after parking. So..........

I've replaced one before. But I'm wondering if...

...it is possible to change without pulling the radiator.
...does it work to put the car in gear to keep the engine from turning? It seems like the hammering on the wrench is a force I don't want to subject my transmission to.
...And that giant nut, it's reverse thread, right?

[o2batsea]

Option 1. Do nothing and just keep cleaning up the drips or put a pan under it.
Option 2. Replace seal. However, replacing seal will without doubt require tangential repairs or replacement of associated parts. Could also lead to discoveries you wish you had not made (aka Nigel's disease, or shipfitter's syndrome).
Option 3. Pay someone else to do it. Least amount of wear and tear on physical being. Requires you to be without your Rover for some time. More money out of pocket.

If it were me, and i don't drive the truck that much, I would seriously consider option #1.

[Les Parker]

The nut is Standard (read RH Thread), with care you can take the nut off and replace the seal, providing it has been replaced before and the original rivets have been replaced with self tapping screws.
An extension on an air gun through the starter dog hole should release the nut.

Hope this helps.

[I Leak Oil]

This isn't that bad of job to do, especially as Les pointed out, if it's been done before. That seal is a slight press fit into the front timing cover and fronted by a sheet metal mudshield that is riveted in place from the factory. If done before, this shield is usually put back with self tapping screws or sometimes left off. If it's still riveted you have to decide to try to do it with the timing cover in situ or remove it from the engine. If you choose to remove it you will need an oil pan gasket as the bottom of he timing cover seals to the oil pan. Waterpump gasket as well. This is more labor intensive but is usually easier in the long run.

Aside from just the seal, plan on speedi-sleeve or new crank pulley because usually it's leaking due to a groove on the pulley sealing surface.

Do yourself a favor, use an impact to remove the crank dog and don't forget to bend he locking tab back first.

[rbbailey]

Good info, good reminders.

I did forget to say that the stupid shield is riveted.....

So I think this might be the time when I pull the radiator and get the drill in there and use this time to refurb my heater box and such as well.

Thanks.

[rbbailey]

Well, I'm at it again. After a year. I have to pull the radiator that is leaking -- after only 2000 miles after a refurbish........ And the front seal is leaking very badly.

So I've been working on the nut. It won't come. Is an impact/air tool the only way to do this?

[SafeAirOne]

So I've been working on the nut. It won't come. Is an impact/air tool the only way to do this?

Well, there's the "put a deep socket and long breaker-bar on it, angled so the handle is just above the left-hand chassis rail, then bump the starter" method.

Still need something to tighten it down enough so it doesn't fall off later though.

[rbbailey]

43mm? How deep is deep?

I looked at a few places today for this size, can't find. Probably have to get from Amazon.

[Contractor]

43mm? How deep is deep?

I looked at a few places today for this size, can't find. Probably have to get from Amazon.

1-11/16"

Go to a Tractor Supply, Northern Tool, Etc.

I could not get mine off by bumping the engine with handle resting on the chassis, you might have better luck with this depending on how tight your bolt is.

I had to put mine up on a lift and use about a 2' section of cheater pipe to get it to budge. Of course the problem then is keeping the engine from turning. You can try putting it in gear, but your clutch may slip or you can jam something into the flywheel.