Does anybody have any good photos of the point where the sideframe rails, bulkhead, and chassis meet on a 109"? Mine were completely rotted away and when I test fit the replacements last night it seems... off. The front end of the rail extends several inches beyond the chassis outrigger, which would leave the bulkhead floating out in space somewhere. So either this is another quirk of the NADA chassis, or I'm missing something fundamental.
109" side frame
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Hmm...side frame?
The entire frame is called the chassis. Using the terminology "chassis rails" for the main rails of the frame, and "outriggers" for the short parts that stick outboard of the chassis rails and "crossmembes" for the parts that span the chassis rails would help our understanding of what you need a photo of.
Here's a pic of my bulkhead outrigger just prior to replacement. I think that may be what you're looking for. Of course, the chassis alignment diagrams from the WSM may be helpful also.
--Mark
1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel
0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
(9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door). -
The side frame is the bit that runs from the rear tub (it's actually riveted into the tub assembly) up to the bulkhead.
I think I found a shot that shows what I need here: http://automotion.smugmug.com/Restor...ject/i-tNKvwxP'67 109 NADA #413 - rebuilding w/ TDI & galvy chassis.Comment
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If you are looking for dimensions showing the location of chassis parts. This is the best I have. Sorry about the quality as the original blueprint was faded.
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Teriann Wakeman_________
Flagstaff, AZ.
1960 Land Rover Dormobile, owned since 1978
My Land Rover web site
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The side frame is the bit that runs from the rear tub (it's actually riveted into the tub assembly) up to the bulkhead.
http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDe...e=0&eq=&key=it
Ahh. OK.
I don't have a photo of one of those.--Mark
1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel
0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
(9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).Comment
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That part is more commonly referred to as the "T-piece". They are often rotted away to nothing. They are not available as "genuine" any more. The ones you see for sale are aftermarket pattern parts. They are the same as Defender 110 5 door, so they are readily available from a number of sources. You can also buy individual parts for them from YRM Metal Solutions. You can get the YRM parts direct or thru Dave Dearborn at Urban Land Cruisers in Atlanta. If you have a set that is in good nick, then you are in great shape!
It is best to work off the bulkhead outriggers as far as body parts go. Bolt up the bulkhead, then add the T pieces, then the rear tub, blah blah blah. So if the bulkhead outriggers are good, that's your starting point.
PS the pic is of a 110, not a Series. The T pieces are the same, tho, as I mentioned. Well, almost. There is a slight difference in the door sills, and the 110 ones don't have the door catch holes in the right place for Series door hardware. You'll have to drill for the door catches if you are replacing the T pieces.Comment
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Yup. I've got it pretty well worked out now - I just had a faulty mental image of how it was going to go together. Thanks all!'67 109 NADA #413 - rebuilding w/ TDI & galvy chassis.Comment
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That part is more commonly referred to as the "T-piece". They are often rotted away to nothing. They are not available as "genuine" any more. The ones you see for sale are aftermarket pattern parts. They are the same as Defender 110 5 door, so they are readily available from a number of sources. You can also buy individual parts for them from YRM Metal Solutions. You can get the YRM parts direct or thru Dave Dearborn at Urban Land Cruisers in Atlanta. If you have a set that is in good nick, then you are in great shape!
It is best to work off the bulkhead outriggers as far as body parts go. Bolt up the bulkhead, then add the T pieces, then the rear tub, blah blah blah. So if the bulkhead outriggers are good, that's your starting point.
PS the pic is of a 110, not a Series. The T pieces are the same, tho, as I mentioned. Well, almost. There is a slight difference in the door sills, and the 110 ones don't have the door catch holes in the right place for Series door hardware. You'll have to drill for the door catches if you are replacing the T pieces.Doug
61 Series II 109 SW
95 RR County LWB
06 Range Rover
98 Discovery LEComment
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