Advice needed,Tranny/transfer swap

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  • 1973series3
    Low Range
    • Jul 2014
    • 32

    Advice needed,Tranny/transfer swap

    Hello all,

    I bought a complete transmission assembly and a clutch kit from our host recently and plan on swapping it in a couple weeks.

    My questions and concerns are stuff like, is it best to remove from inside or try to r&r from the underside?

    Since I will be swapping the clutch assy. is there anything I should know while installing new parts?

    My speedo does not work, anything I need to look at while I am at this phase of my rover upgrade work?

    I know nothing to look at as far as the Fairey overdrive unit, but would like to check it out for any future problems while I have everything apart. Any advice?

    And anything else I don't know that you guys would like to tell me to make this as painless as possible?


    This is my first Rover so it has been an interesting journey owning and working on this truck.

    There is probably more I could add but I am hoping you guys can shed some light on this job I have planned soon.

    TIA
  • o2batsea
    Overdrive
    • Oct 2006
    • 1199

    #2
    It is ALWAYS easier if you remove the seat box and floors. Speedo is prolly a broken inner cable. Gaugeguys dot com can make you a new one.
    As to the Fairey overdrive, it is a ticking time bomb. Sooner or later it will blow. Use it until you can't. Keep your transmission end plate handy!

    Comment

    • SafeAirOne
      Overdrive
      • Apr 2008
      • 3435

      #3
      I prefer to take out the floors, transmission "tunnel" and seatbox and work from above, using an engine hoist to pull the tranny/transfer case.

      The SIII clutch is pretty straightforward and dead-simple compared to the pre-series 3 contraption.

      You're going to have to remove the speedometer cable from the transfer case anyway. Now's the time replace your broken cable.

      Tips? Yes. When you reattach the transmission to the engine, remove a couple of the studs on the transmission adapter (on the back of the engine--the studs that hold the bellhousing to the engine) and replace them with a couple of 3 inch bolts with the heads cut off. Do this at say the 10:00 and 2:00 position and maybe a couple down below. This way, you can correctly align the transmission with the engine before the splines on the input shaft engage the clutch disk, allowing you to maintain alignment while you mate the two together.
      --Mark

      1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

      0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
      (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

      Comment

      • jac04
        Overdrive
        • Feb 2007
        • 1884

        #4
        I would also suggest filling the transmission assembly with oil and checking for leaks prior to installation (you probably want to drain it for handling afterward so no oil comes out of the input area). Also do an inspection of the selector shaft seals & indent springs/seals. Check for proper movement of the selector shafts. I was VERY unimpressed with the quality of the rebuilt transmission ass'y that I received from RN. It leaked like a sieve and I couldn't shift it.

        Comment

        • cedryck
          5th Gear
          • Sep 2010
          • 836

          #5
          A good reliable, sturdy, engine crane is handy, I agree with everyone else, remove seat box, and do from top.
          Old tow strops come in handy to wrap the tranny up instead of chains, just in my opinion,
          take your time, use alignment tool to position clutch disk properly,
          have some beer on hand, it always helps.

          Comment

          • slowmo
            2nd Gear
            • Dec 2014
            • 225

            #6
            I am in the middle of the same project, except I did the rebuild myself.

            You really have no choice other than to pull it from the passenger side after removing the seat box. With a rental engine hoist it is an easy project and can be done alone except for removing the seat box from the truck once unfastened. It isn't heavy and my little wife helped me for this part.

            I have a PTO Koenig winch and I had to remove that in advance to be able to move the tranny back to clear the clutch. I also had to unfasten the exhaust pipe. Both no problem. I used a tow sling and didn't have it balanced very well so once I got it disengaged from the clutch it tipped down at the nose. No really problem since I had removed the shifter. Had I not drained the tranny I would have had more of a mess, however. Be sure to do that!

            I haven't installed the rebuild yet (see my thread which is presently bouncing around) but getting the sling adjusted properly will be easy from the garage floor. As others have said - buy the cheap alignment tool to get the clutch centered properly in the pressure plate. Like I said, I haven't done it yet on this truck, but have on several other small sports cars. I can see this is a piece of cake compared to those.

            I can report that I have only one minor knuckle scrape, have gone through two boxes of nitrile gloves and two packages of rags and more than a "few" beers.

            Good luck!!
            Last edited by slowmo; 03-12-2015, 12:35 PM. Reason: beer consumption correction - accuracy is important.
            --David

            1959 TR3
            1970 Series IIa 88" ("Homer")

            My hovercraft is full of eels.

            Comment

            • 1973series3
              Low Range
              • Jul 2014
              • 32

              #7
              Thanks to each of you guys for your input. It saddens me that your rebuild from RN was not worth what it cost. Sure isn't what I would call a bargain price. I would expect more from Ashcroft to be honest. I guess I will have to cross my fingers at this point.

              I will have a cherry picker handy then about 300 different tools a block of wood to support the engine, and again, I appreciate the help. Being a new guy who never posts on here and all,you guys are very open and helpful.

              As far as my tranny leaking(possibly really bad) what recourse do I have. I will be fairly pissed if after 3 grand it need seals or gaskets.

              Any other nuggets?

              Thanks

              Comment

              • ignotus
                2nd Gear
                • Sep 2009
                • 237

                #8
                I've pulled several trannies by using 1/2" rope wrapped twice around the roof and lifting the tranny with a 1 ton come a long then sliding the whole thing along the rope to the door and lowering it down outside the vehicle. I have used a wooden dowel(3/4"?) for an alignment tool. When re installing you can slide the rope forward to "pull" the tranny up to the flywheel. Unless you have a removeable gearbox support, gotta go thru the top.

                HTH
                1960 "bitsa" 88--Ignotus
                1960 109, 200TDI
                rebuild blog; http://poppageno.blogspot.com/

                Comment

                • wgnwheel
                  Low Range
                  • Nov 2014
                  • 20

                  #9
                  I pulled mine out in sections through the top and put it back together the same way - very manageable by yourself. Make sure you support the Bellhousing by the lip with a 1" wood shim when pulling it apart -

                  Cue Pandora...

                  Comment

                  • jac04
                    Overdrive
                    • Feb 2007
                    • 1884

                    #10
                    Originally posted by 1973series3
                    As far as my tranny leaking(possibly really bad) what recourse do I have. I will be fairly pissed if after 3 grand it need seals or gaskets.
                    That's why I suggested you check it before installation. With mine, RN said "no problem, just send it back and we'll fix it". Excellent customer service, but I had already buttoned-up everything and I wasn't about to pull it all apart. If I had known before installation, I sure would have taken them up on their offer. Instead, I had them send me a gasket kit, seals & Hylomar. I fixed the worst leaks (selector shaft seals and x-fer case cover), and lived with the other small leaks.

                    Here's what I found after pulling 1 of the detent spring retainers:
                    Click image for larger version

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                    Comment

                    • Les Parker
                      RN Sales Team - Super Moderator
                      • May 2006
                      • 2020

                      #11
                      RN has sold many transmissions since this pic was taken. To date, none have had warranty issues. These are, after all, none current production vehicles and even with the best intentions, there will be some seepage from gaskets. The above was certainly an exception and RN endeavoured to correct in a timely manner.
                      2p
                      Les Parker
                      Tech. Support and Parts Specialist
                      Rovers North Inc.

                      Comment

                      • jac04
                        Overdrive
                        • Feb 2007
                        • 1884

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Les Parker
                        ... even with the best intentions, there will be some seepage from gaskets. The above was certainly an exception ...
                        So, there is your answer. My transmission leaked, but it was an exception ... although you should expect your $3k rebuilt assembly to leak as well.

                        Comment

                        • RNZack
                          Administrator
                          • Sep 2011
                          • 426

                          #13
                          Don't worry, your Jeep will not leak for several years to come!

                          Comment

                          • slowmo
                            2nd Gear
                            • Dec 2014
                            • 225

                            #14
                            You have it all wrong. My TR3 has been marking his territory for years. In fact, I am not even charging anyone for water proofing their parking spots. They should be happy I am giving them my oil, purchased I might add with MY money.

                            The Rover gives me an entirely new level of gifting. Not only does it mark its territory, it marks the path it took to get there! Those who choose to help society by waterproofing well, everything, should in fact be given tax breaks. Though my Series Rover is named Homer, I have been considering naming it Valdez or Hazelwood. Being the cynic that I am, I note I have not received one letter of thanks from the local authorities. No plaques, no "Homer Days." No mention in the newspaper...well...postive mentions I should say.

                            Hoping that any part of any Series Rover will not leak is akin to being a communist. Do you not feel the need to help society? As a Series Rover owner it is not just your right to water proof the streets. It is your DUTY.

                            Now get back on the road and contact your Congressman. We have to get the news out.
                            --David

                            1959 TR3
                            1970 Series IIa 88" ("Homer")

                            My hovercraft is full of eels.

                            Comment

                            • 1973series3
                              Low Range
                              • Jul 2014
                              • 32

                              #15
                              Mine marks it territory as well.


                              As far as trans assy concerns...I have had nothing but good luck with RN so far and Mr. Brennan has been above and beyond helpful in my moments of need. Great guy.

                              Thanks for the input guys.

                              Comment

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