Flat towing a series rig

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  • Understatedcoolness
    Low Range
    • Apr 2014
    • 15

    Flat towing a series rig

    I have a 1960 series 2 with the factory galvanized bumper. I want to set it up for flat towing. I need ideas on how to best do this. I have seen custom bumpers with welded tow bar attachment points($$$) and I've seen a grainy pic of attachment points that clamp to the factory bumpers. What type of tow bar works best? What is a proper place to attach safety chains? Please send pics of your set up and give me some recommendations on where to find the stuff!

    Thanks in advance!
    1960 Series II 88
  • o2batsea
    Overdrive
    • Oct 2006
    • 1199

    #2
    Reproduction bumpers are cheap. Get one and poke all kind of holes in it for brackets and whatnot. Keep the original bumper safe and warm in the basement.
    I know a couple folk who installed freewheel hubs on both front and rear axles so they didn't have to fool with undoing the driveshafts.
    I've used tow bars that clamp on, but they dented or bent the bumper. 'Course that was on a RRC. Dunno what's out there these days.

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    • Understatedcoolness
      Low Range
      • Apr 2014
      • 15

      #3
      Thanks for the input. Do I need to disconnect driveshafts or install locking hubs? I thought the t case in neutral and tranny in gear and I would be good to go. Not true? Is there any downside to having locking hubs on all four? I actually have 1 set of superwinch hubs new in box standing by.

      Thanks again
      1960 Series II 88

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      • TravelinLight
        Low Range
        • Jan 2015
        • 51

        #4
        I picked up a tow bar set up from harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/5000-lb...bar-94696.html

        I drilled the two holes and left the brackets on the bumper full time and only attached the bar when needed. I put the transfer case in neutral and towed away. If I was going cross country I may think about disconnecting but only if I worried the transfer case may slip into gear. My tows never had a problem, but they were less than 100 miles each way.

        This was on my 88.
        Sean
        1971 Series IIA Dormobile

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        • rwollschlager
          5th Gear
          • Sep 2007
          • 583

          #5
          Any of the options will work:
          -remove drive shaft
          -transfer case in neutral, transmission in 4th
          -fit locking hubs to rear axle, put in "free" position when towing
          Any one of the above will work on their own.

          If you have the hubs already, just throw those on and call it good. Only down side I can think of would be blowing one out (haven't seen it happen, ever, so I wouldn't worry about it), and I guess they stick out slightly farther than the drive flange, but again another negligible reason.
          ------------------------------------------------
          72 SIII 88
          67 SIIA 109
          82 SIII Stage 1 V8
          -- http://www.youtube.com/barnfind88 --

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