Cold Start indicator

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  • slowmo
    2nd Gear
    • Dec 2014
    • 225

    Cold Start indicator

    I don't have the manual in front of me, but my cold start indicator is on all the time. What is this even for and is the indicator triggered? I am going to tackle gauges and indicators one after the other since none of them actually seem to function.

    Thanks.
    --David

    1959 TR3
    1970 Series IIa 88" ("Homer")

    My hovercraft is full of eels.
  • lumpydog
    3rd Gear
    • May 2014
    • 383

    #2
    Slo

    It's a simple switch. It's clamped onto your choke cable. When you pull out the choke, the switch button pops out (activates the light) as the choke arm/knob is pulled out. Slide the choke in and it obstructs/closes the button, turning the light off.

    This one should be simple - remove the 5 instrument panel screws and look for a small box clamped onto the choke cable immediately behind the instrument panel. It's probably loose or maybe slid out of place. The choke cable has three holes in it - two for bumps in the choke light switch box that keep it in place. One middle hole where the choke light switch button protrudes through - and toggles on/off with the slide of the cable.
    1968 Series IIa
    1997 Defender SW (Original Owner - Sold)

    Comment

    • slowmo
      2nd Gear
      • Dec 2014
      • 225

      #3
      Ah. I thought there was a sensor somewhere which gave the indication to use the choke and that the sensor was kaput. Instead, it is just a reminder that you are using the choke. Silly me.
      --David

      1959 TR3
      1970 Series IIa 88" ("Homer")

      My hovercraft is full of eels.

      Comment

      • siii8873
        Overdrive
        • Jul 2007
        • 1013

        #4
        some systems also have a temp switch at front of the engine near Tstat housing. You pull the choke cable which closes the switch discussed above. This switch is in series with the temp switch. So when you have the choke on and the engine reaches a set temp the choke (cold start) light comes on telling you that you have the choke pulled and the engine is warm.
        Probably a problem with the switch noted above it is staying on.
        THING 1 - 1973 88 SIII - SOLD
        THING 2 -1974 88 SIII Daily Driver - SOLD
        THING 3 - 1969 88 SIIA Bugeye Project
        THING 4 - 1971 109 SIIA ExMod - SOLD
        THING 5 - 1958 109 PU
        THING 6 - 1954 86" HT

        Comment

        • SafeAirOne
          Overdrive
          • Apr 2008
          • 3435

          #5
          Well, lumpydog's answer MAY be correct. Some engines had a simple system that merely went through the light switch then to ground as described by lumpydog, and some went through that same switch, enabling the light, then on to a temperature-activated switch (sometimes known as an "otter" switch) on the front of the engine, which illuminated the light by grounding the circuit once the engine is warm, reminding you to "turn off" the choke, so to speak...



          [EDIT:] Bob beat me to it--I spent too much time researching the name of the thermal switch.
          --Mark

          1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

          0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
          (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

          Comment

          • lumpydog
            3rd Gear
            • May 2014
            • 383

            #6
            No otter switch on my engine. I wondered how that second temp sensor worked on trucks where I've seen it...

            So, if he has one, it sounds like a simple way for Slo to test if it's a faulty otter switch - Would be to see if the cold start light is coming on right away, before the engine is even warmed up. Pull out the choke, and turn the start key to the point where the dash lights come on - but don't start it... and see if the cold start light comes on. If it does, that would point to the otter switch because it's grounding the circuit without the engine being warm. Correct?

            But, even if it's a faulty otter switch, the the switch on the choke cable should be able to break the circuit if it's functioning properly...
            1968 Series IIa
            1997 Defender SW (Original Owner - Sold)

            Comment

            • slowmo
              2nd Gear
              • Dec 2014
              • 225

              #7
              I have a sensor which has obviously failed closed AND the switch is closed as well. I looked on our hosts site and didn't find the sensor. Anyone have a link so I can replace it? Thanks.
              --David

              1959 TR3
              1970 Series IIa 88" ("Homer")

              My hovercraft is full of eels.

              Comment

              • SafeAirOne
                Overdrive
                • Apr 2008
                • 3435

                #8
                They were used on other British cars. Jaguars and MG's come to mind. Google "otter switch" and do "images".
                --Mark

                1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

                0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
                (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

                Comment

                • slowmo
                  2nd Gear
                  • Dec 2014
                  • 225

                  #9
                  The plot sickens...er...thickens. One of the PO's removed the switch completely. There is no switch. AND, when I disconnect the spade terminal on the otter switch, the light stays illuminated. So it is either shorted out somewhere, or connected to the wrong terminal. Well...at least this is not a mission critical glitch. Plan is to run new wires from the otter switch, the soon to be replaced water temperature sensor and the soon to be replaced oil pressure sensor.

                  I will then attempt to find the correct "otter" switch and attempt to find the bracket and switch assembly. Obviously this is not required and I could simply disconnect the light, but what the heck. I like everything tidy.
                  Last edited by slowmo; 05-19-2015, 11:09 AM.
                  --David

                  1959 TR3
                  1970 Series IIa 88" ("Homer")

                  My hovercraft is full of eels.

                  Comment

                  • lumpydog
                    3rd Gear
                    • May 2014
                    • 383

                    #10
                    Slo - Our host has the switch you need and I think Ike carries them as well - as mentioned, it's a small box that clamps onto the cable. Make sure your choke cable has the provision for the switch. It should have three small in-line holes on the solid stem that protrudes through the dash panel. If it's a later model S3 choke cable, it may have the switch attachment point on the cable itself, within the engine bay. If you need a choke cable that has the provision for the switch - Ike carries them (they are not entirely easy to find and I do not believe our host has them).

                    [Edit] Added picture (borrowed from Ike's site) to show the three holes needed for the switch.

                    Last edited by lumpydog; 05-19-2015, 10:14 AM.
                    1968 Series IIa
                    1997 Defender SW (Original Owner - Sold)

                    Comment

                    • slowmo
                      2nd Gear
                      • Dec 2014
                      • 225

                      #11
                      Thank Lumpy. Looking at the parts catalog it seemed there was a metal bracket which somehow held the switch on. Looking at the switch it seems to clamp directly on to the choke cable.

                      With the cost of the switch and an unknown cost for the correct otter switch I may utilize the warning light for my missile launching system instead.
                      --David

                      1959 TR3
                      1970 Series IIa 88" ("Homer")

                      My hovercraft is full of eels.

                      Comment

                      • lumpydog
                        3rd Gear
                        • May 2014
                        • 383

                        #12
                        Yeah - I think Ike has one with the correct metal bracket that clamps/secures it in place… The RN one appears to clip on.
                        1968 Series IIa
                        1997 Defender SW (Original Owner - Sold)

                        Comment

                        • siii8873
                          Overdrive
                          • Jul 2007
                          • 1013

                          #13
                          [QUOTE=slowmo;103983]Thank Lumpy. Looking at the parts catalog it seemed there was a metal bracket which somehow held the switch on. Looking at the switch it seems to clamp directly on to the choke cable.

                          the switch with the bracket is for earlier models, your vintage would have the switch on the cable as you note.
                          THING 1 - 1973 88 SIII - SOLD
                          THING 2 -1974 88 SIII Daily Driver - SOLD
                          THING 3 - 1969 88 SIIA Bugeye Project
                          THING 4 - 1971 109 SIIA ExMod - SOLD
                          THING 5 - 1958 109 PU
                          THING 6 - 1954 86" HT

                          Comment

                          • mikeshaw247
                            Low Range
                            • Aug 2018
                            • 5

                            #14
                            Originally posted by SafeAirOne
                            Well, lumpydog's answer MAY be correct. Some engines had a simple system that merely went through the light switch then to ground as described by lumpydog, and some went through that same switch, enabling the light, then on to a temperature-activated switch (sometimes known as an "otter" switch) on the front of the engine, which illuminated the light by grounding the circuit once the engine is warm, reminding you to "turn off" the choke, so to speak...



                            [EDIT:] Bob beat me to it--I spent too much time researching the name of the thermal switch.
                            Yep - I need this otter switch. I believe it is part number 545010 called a Thermostat Switch or Choke Light Switch. Different from the switch on the cable, which I removed. The switch on the cable tells you the opposite of what the Otter switch tells you. Otter switch says - hey - use your cold start. Switch on the cable says, hey, push in your cold start cable. Hard to find the otter switch. Rovers North doesn't seem to have it anymore.
                            Thanks!
                            Mike

                            Comment

                            • mikeshaw247
                              Low Range
                              • Aug 2018
                              • 5

                              #15
                              Otter Switch for Choke Light

                              Originally posted by mikeshaw247
                              Yep - I need this otter switch. I believe it is part number 545010 called a Thermostat Switch or Choke Light Switch. Different from the switch on the cable, which I removed. The switch on the cable tells you the opposite of what the Otter switch tells you. Otter switch says - hey - use your cold start. Switch on the cable says, hey, push in your cold start cable. Hard to find the otter switch. Rovers North doesn't seem to have it anymore.
                              Thanks!
                              Mike
                              I did find one. Yep - called Otter Switch, it seems everywhere. Now I just need to test mine to see if it's really broken.

                              Thanks all!
                              Mike

                              Comment

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