2.25 petrol overheating

[ybt502r]

Well...I hesitate to add to the confusion, but you stated at the start that your radiator is only giving you a delta temperature of 10 degrees from top to bottom. That's not much cooling. I haven't put a thermometer on mine, but I recall that I could feel a difference in temperature between the two hoses, and I don't think my hand could tell the difference between 200F and 190F for example. I'd pull the radiator and have it checked out by a shop. You've pretty much overworked everything else.

[Jdnewberry]

The radiator is a new 4-core, just purchased last fall from RN. I'm starting to think that the myth about radiators flowing too fast isn't a myth after all. I made a make-shift flow restrictor the other day and installed it in the top radiator hose. It's amazing that it actually helped. I'm still running warm, but not as bad as in the past. I'm planning on trying another one with even less flow to see what happens.

[Brian Holmes]

I don't know if the too fast flow idea applies to the LR. If memory serves, the 21 and 59 series (casting numbers on bell housing) flathead Ford V8s used in stock car racing in the 1940s had restrictors placed in the outlets of the heads. My non-stock car but mildly hot rodded 1940 Ford would throw coolant out the overflow when revved up a bit much.
Cheers,
Brian on Kootenay Lake

[SafeAirOne]

Interesting. If too much flow through a 4-row radiator is the problem, then you're seemingly a unique case, as I don't recall ever seeing anyone else write about overheating issues with a 4-row radiator before. Not that it hasn't happened to anyone else, but I'm surprised that nobody's ever mentioned that happening on a 2.25P engine previously. Perhaps something's different about this batch of 4-row radiators?


Are you using an alternative fluid, like Water Wetter or just a 50/50 water/coolant mix?

[Jdnewberry]

Okay, I'm still grasping at straws here. The entire cooling system is new and clean, the entire fuel system is new, but it still runs a little warm. Is it possible that any of this could be electrical? If any condition was causing a weak spark, could that possibly lead to an engine running warm?

I ask because I suspect my coil may be on its way out. The only other ignition component that has not been replaced are the plug wires. I have not checked their resistances, though.

[warrenperkinson]

I'm just throwing this out as a possibility - but are you certain that the temperature before your head rebuild was any different?

If the connection to the temp sender was previously gunked up with oil and the electrical connection was poor, wouldn't the temp on the gauge read lower than the actual temperature?

As part of the rebuild, you probably would have disconnected the temp sender unit and so reconnecting it may simply have given a better connection... and therefore a higher temp reading...

Just a thought...

Warren.

[Jdnewberry]

I honestly have no idea what the temp was before. The old sender was dead. All I know for certain is that the reading from the new sender is accurate. I verified the temp in the radiator with a thermometer.

[slowmo]

Bad timing can cause overheating. When it was timed, was the vacuum advance disconnected?

The first time put a timing light on my truck after I bought it, it was so far off I thought the previous owner was out of his mind...even though the truck ran OK. I got everything aligned as was in the book and it ran "OK" but hot. I monkeyed around with it for a while with no joy, and decided to just time it by ear and see where it ended up. It ended up right where the previous owner had left it. "Dog gone it. What is going on here," thought my tiny little squirrel powered brain?

Suddenly remembered to disconnect the vacuum advance and the wacky thing lined up perfectly. So it wasn't the previous owner who was out of his mind after all. Hmmm.

Anywho, you might check it again.

[Jdnewberry]

I wish it was timing, but I doubt it. I'm willing to try again, but I have set it statically and dynamically. (Vacuum disconnected for dynamic) it is an emission controlled engine, but I do no have the carbon canister.

That said, it runs best at 6 deg btdc, but it still runs warm from 6 atdc through 18 btdc. Also, when I say warm, it isn't in the red. It touches the red, though. It also becomes very difficult to restart at that temp. After a few cranks, the cool water in the radiator cools the engine enough to fire.

I know it seems hopeless, but there must be an answer. Surely I'm not the only one with this issue.

[clearcut]

I had timing set in Sacramento at repair shop
ran great. then a few weeks later found the vacume was disconnected. now it like a race rover

[cedryck]

When you disconect the tube for the advance, do you disconnect it from the carb of dizzy? Do you plug it after disconnecting? Inquiring minds want to know,,,,

[clearcut]

I think the proper way is

Initial: This is the most common adjustment that people associate with timing. At idle, with the vacuum advance hose disconnected and plugged, this is the timing that you would see if you flashed timing light on the timing marks. On typical stock engines you'd see as low as 0 to as high as 15 degrees. Most Ford shop manuals specify around 6-8 degrees initial timing advance for the 289-351 motors.


My question would be what due you plug? Going to Motor? Going to vacuum?

My vacuum pipe was broken by the carb side of motor, then fixed with a rubber hose that was not connected!


josh

[slowmo]

The important thing is to set the timing with no vacuum advance at the distributor. I disconnect at the carb because it is easier to reach. I plug the vacuum fitting on the carb so it isn't pulling in air which matches normal running condition. Then set the timing. It is amazing how far off the timing mark is with the vacuum advance connected.

[joulandy]

Hi,

Did you resolve the overheating issue? If so what did you find to be the cause.

Also what should the delta T be for a good functioning cooling system.

Andre