Engine to chassis ground

[DGG]

Where is the best location on the engine, for the engine to chassis ground strap? This is for a negative earth 2.25 series motor.
thank you.

[clearcut]

what rover series are we talking about?

[lumpydog]

On mine, it's from the starter motor mount/bolt to the frame.

I think I've seen some go from negative battery terminal directly to one of the oil fill tube securing bolts. Or maybe it was from where the negative ground from the battery is secured to the frame - then from there, to one of the oil fill tube bolts.

Others will chime in. Important part is cleaning the wire contacts and also the frame mating surface so they are free of oil and paint. Bare metal is key - 600 or 800 grit sand paper works nicely. Once cleaned you have two bare metal mating surfaces - some dielectric grease will help stop corrosion around the contact points.

[ignotus]

On the starter side of the block just around the drain petcock there should be a hole with a bolt in it, or maybe a stud. From there over to the chassis steering box support bracket bolt.

[antichrist]

Absolute best, IMO, is from a starter mounting bolt to the bolt where the battery chassis earth attaches. It costs a bit more but when I make cables that's how I make them to fit.

[DGG]

I went with the oil fill tube bolt to the chassis where the battery is grounded. Still not getting any spark at the plugs.

[SafeAirOne]

What is it that pointed to a poor ground path from the engine as the cause of your no-spark issue? It is possible, I'm just wondering what troubleshooting steps have been taken so far.

[antichrist]

If the engine was cranking before, then the engine ground was certainly good enough for the ignition.

[DGG]

What is it that pointed to a poor ground path from the engine as the cause of your no-spark issue? It is possible, I'm just wondering what troubleshooting steps have been taken so far.

Just wanted to start with making sir I had a good ground. The I tested the voltage at the ignition switch which was good, the. Tested the voltage coming into the coil, and that was good except that there was a slight voltage drop at the coil. Switch was 12.4, and the coil was 11.8. No spark at the plugs or the lead going into the top of the distributor.
I also noticed that when I had the distributor cap off, and I was cranking the engine, the points were closed and didn't open. I'm a novice at automotive electronics.

[SafeAirOne]

If the points don't open, you'll never get a spark at the spark plug.


-When the points open, the electricity flowing through the primary winding inside the coil stops.
-When the electricity in the primary circuit in the coil stops, the magnetic field produced by electricity flow through the primary coil winding collapses past the secondary windings in the coil.
-When this magnetic field collapses past the secondary windings, it creates a large amount of voltage in the SECONDARY windings. It is this large voltage that goes out of the fat wire in the middle of the coil to the distributor cap for distribution to the spark plugs.

So, no points opening, no field collapse, no high voltage to the spark plugs.

Your engine ground is just fine.

[SafeAirOne]

[DGG]

If the points don't open, you'll never get a spark at the spark plug.


-When the points open, the electricity flowing through the primary winding inside the coil stops.
-When the electricity in the primary circuit in the coil stops, the magnetic field produced by electricity flow through the primary coil winding collapses past the secondary windings in the coil.
-When this magnetic field collapses past the secondary windings, it creates a large amount of voltage in the SECONDARY windings. It is this large voltage that goes out of the fat wire in the middle of the coil to the distributor cap for distribution to the spark plugs.

So, no points opening, no field collapse, no high voltage to the spark plugs.

Your engine ground is just fine.

Now what? Where do I go from here. The coil is new.

[mearstrae]

Set the points to .015" and then when it starts check the timing.

'99 Disco II
'95 R.R.C. Lwb (Gone...)
'76 Series III Hybrid 109
'70 Rover 3500S

[lumpydog]

I always find John Twist's videos to be helpful. The MGBs that he works on are basically the same in function to a land rover.

Distributor Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7fUbvKgmmQQ

[Edit] By the way - depending on your distributor type, the process for removing and replacing the points and the condenser will be similar but different in terms of the use of clips, screws, etc to secure the points and the condenser (which may vary in location).

[SafeAirOne]

Now what? Where do I go from here. The coil is new.

The coil is fine. My lengthy reply about how the system works was primarily to give you the opportunity to have one of those "AhaaaHa!" moments, when you realize that the points need to open and close to make the engine go.

Have a look at the procedure I copied out of the workshop manual and posted immediately before your latest query. Start at step #7.