Generator

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  • mearstrae
    5th Gear
    • Oct 2011
    • 592

    #16
    One wire systems are self earthing through the alt housing. But, if you're having that much trouble with starter electrics, be sure to check and clean all the earths, and add one directly to the starter mounting bolt if needed. And check the battery capacity, you may have weak cells. I run a 100amp one wire myself, with a home-made bracket. (I also have this set-up on my 3500S)

    '99 Disco II
    '95 R.R.C. Lwb (Gone...)
    '76 Series III Hybrid 109
    '70 Rover 3500S

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    • slowmo
      2nd Gear
      • Dec 2014
      • 225

      #17
      I have a 100amp alternator as well. It is a GM (Delco) 10si case style. There is a separate ground terminal on mine which I connected to the block, though it is supposedly case grounded.

      Once you install the alternator and run a heavy gauge wire to the new battery, you might what to check if you have some kind of short which is draining your battery. If you have a multimeter, set it up to measure current. Disconnect the positive terminal on the battery and put the multimeter in series. See if an current is flowing with the ignition off. If so you have a short somewhere and will have to track it down.
      --David

      1959 TR3
      1970 Series IIa 88" ("Homer")

      My hovercraft is full of eels.

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      • RoverForm
        3rd Gear
        • Jul 2010
        • 348

        #18
        Thanks all. I got the Delco Alternator, but before GEN/ALT swap, a POS to NEG earth conversion is recommended.

        I've read all the info on TerriAnns's site and spoke to her briefly via email. Have watched numerous videos on the swap, have printed the POS and NEG wiring diagrams for the IIa. I understand I need to swap the wires on:

        ammeter
        ignition coil
        interior LEDs
        and fuel pump (if solid state)?
        Is my fuel pump solid state? How do I know? If it's not, do I have to replace the fuel pump with a solid state pump? This was not described on TerriAnn's site.
        This is the pump I have:
        Click image for larger version

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        Last edited by RoverForm; 02-27-2016, 02:23 PM.

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        • lumpydog
          3rd Gear
          • May 2014
          • 383

          #19
          Keep it simple: https://www.roversnorth.com/info/40

          That fuel pump is mechanical (vs electric) and doesn't know the difference between pos and neg earthed engines. It will keep pumping as long as the engine is working. Don't concern yourself with it while you're switching over to negative earth.
          1968 Series IIa
          1997 Defender SW (Original Owner - Sold)

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          • SafeAirOne
            Overdrive
            • Apr 2008
            • 3435

            #20
            Originally posted by lumpydog
            That fuel pump is mechanical (vs electric) and doesn't know the difference between pos and neg earthed engines.

            It must be an electric pump--it says "AC" on it!
            --Mark

            1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

            0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
            (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

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            • RoverForm
              3rd Gear
              • Jul 2010
              • 348

              #21
              Thanks guys!

              After verifying that there were no electric wires connected to the pump, I went ahead and did the POS to NEG earth conversion last night.

              disconnected batt
              had to re-position the ground cable
              swapped wires on the ammeter
              swapped wires on the interior LEDs
              swapped wires on the ignition coil
              re-polarized the generator from the POS batt terminal
              inserted batt in reverse position and connected

              Result:
              truck starts and runs
              ammeter still reads (-)amps
              LEDs work
              charge light is still on

              So basically the truck functions exactly as it did before the conversion.

              I'd say that's a success?

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              • lumpydog
                3rd Gear
                • May 2014
                • 383

                #22
                Awesome! Nice work and welcome to negative earth.
                1968 Series IIa
                1997 Defender SW (Original Owner - Sold)

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                • VTRover
                  3rd Gear
                  • Feb 2007
                  • 340

                  #23
                  My 61 still has the original generator and at over 85,000 miles it's still working fine. I'm thinking it must be constructed from Roswell materials.............

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                  • lumpydog
                    3rd Gear
                    • May 2014
                    • 383

                    #24
                    If you took your generator apart, you would find it to be a pretty simple device. To those reading this far, the consumable part is the brushes and they can be found for $8 to $10. Also - there is a small oil hole on the engine side/very center of the generator's circular end cap. A few drops of sewing machine oil in there goes a long way. Probably a good idea to have a spear bearing handy too.
                    1968 Series IIa
                    1997 Defender SW (Original Owner - Sold)

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