Rebuilding fuel pump

[64Blue]

In spite of looking, I haven't been able to find a good write up on rebuilding the fuel pump for a series 2 a petrol, 2.25 Liter. Has anyone seen one, or done it and can help? Much appreciated!

[TeriAnn]

Inspire of looking, I haven't been able to find a good write up on rebuilding he fuel pump for a series 2 a petrol, 2,25 l. Has anyone seen one, or done it and can help? Much appreciated!

I've rebuilt the AC mechanical fuel pump a few times on both my Dormie and the TR3 (same pump but with different mounting bolt location). The job is very straight forward and is described in the factory workshop manual.

1. remove the fuel line fittings, the 2 nuts holding the pump to the block.

2. Clean the exterior of the pump before opening it up.

3. Remove the fuel bowl, clean the inside, the filter screen if needed and discard the gasket (NEVER TRY TO REUSE THE SEDIMENT CUP GASKET)

4. Remove the screws around the outside edge of the pump that holds the 2 halves together. Separate the 2 halves. You will see the pump diaphragm and a spring around the rod in the centre of the diaphragm. Note where they are.

5. Replace the diaphragm. Note that the metal parts may be mounted differently to the diaphragm. If they are don't worry about it.

6. Replace the one way fuel valves (those little metal discs that came in the kit). They fit in opposite directions so one opens in and the other opens out. There is an early and late version of the fuel pump. The early version has a metal retaining place. Simply remove the screw holding the retaining plate on, remove the plate then replace the one way valves being careful to place the new ones in the correct orientation.

The newer version has the valves held in place by pinged over metal. You need to bend back the metal, replace the valves then re-ping them to hold the new valves in place. The biggest failure point after a late pump rebuild is a valve falling off because it was not pinged in tightly. See if you can move just one pinged clamp pry the old valve out and the new one in. That will give you one side with the factory ping one one side

7. Reassemble the pump using a new gasket on the sediment bowl. Reattach the pump to the engine.

8. Use the primer leaver to pump fuel back into the pump and check for leaks. Start the engine and check for leaks again.

[64Blue]

Thank you! The one I have is the one with the pressed valves... a complete PITA to get out.... but did manage to get them out (and slice up my hand pretty well in the process - don't do that!), reseat the new ones using a socket as a drift to lightly tap them in... This was the one part that really had me worried.... I'll make sure they are peened over well per your comments!

I didn't have a diaphragm in either kit I got.... hmmmm

[TeriAnn]

I didn't have a diaphragm in either kit I got.... hmmmm

That's really strange. Every time I've rebuilt a fuel pump there was a hole of some kind in the diaphragm. A diaphragm should be the heart of a rebuild kit for an AC mechanical fuel pump. In my limited experience the valves seldom go bad though they may get a piece of grit lodged in one so it doesn't close if the filter screen is broken or missing. Where have you been getting your kits from?

[64Blue]

I think I should clarify that I have the fuel pump diaphragm, but I didn't have the black rubber diaphragm that the shaft goes through that seals the oil.... I don't think I described that very well, did I?

So, my question is, do you typically replace the oil seal diaphragm too? or just leave it alone? Asking as I was getting some weeping out of the breather hole.... and I presumed it was petrol, but figured I might consider replacing the oil seal once I was in there too, unless folks aren't usually needing to do that...

[Star27buck]

It might not be necessary, indeed some kits don't have that part at all. Another tip, the kits sometimes come with a cork sediment bowl gasket. It is correct, cute and dreadful. Go to NAPA with the cork one and get a rubber (or synthetic) one. I don't recall the number but half the cars in the US had the same fuel pump, more or less, and they should have one

[slowmo]

When I replaced my fuel pump, with one I presume was made in Pakistan, the rubber sediment bowl gasket swelled to about twice its size when exposed to fuel. I believe they made the gasket out of neoprene, which is terrible with fuel. Anywho, I made a cork gasket which held just fine - until I altogether ditched the mechanical fuel pump and replaced it with an electric one.

[jac04]

Watch out for the diaphram. If you are using a Genuine Land Rover kit, they have had problems with the diaphram being backwards. Make sure it exactly matches what you take out.