No spark - bypassing the ignition switch?

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • dipasqum
    Low Range
    • Feb 2008
    • 9

    No spark - bypassing the ignition switch?

    I replaced the ignition coil on my iia because I thought it was the cause of a no spark condition. I still don't get any spark doing the test from the ignition coil main cable to the block. starter motor cranks just fine.

    My thought is there is something wrong in the LT circuit and I want to bypass the ignition switch to eliminate it from consideration.

    Any other ideas would be grand!

    Thanks for reading.
  • mearstrae
    5th Gear
    • Oct 2011
    • 592

    #2
    Start with the source of electric (battery), with a muti-meter set in the 12V range or a test light. Do you have power to the ignition switch? Is power leaving the ignition switch? Do you have power to the coil? Do you have power leaving the coil? Is there power at the points? Is the condenser toast? Unless you start with the power source and confirm each component down the line you'll end up guessing and changing parts all over the place.

    '99 Disco II
    '95 R.R.C. Lwb (Gone...)
    '76 Series III Hybrid 109
    '70 Rover 3500S

    Comment

    • slowmo
      2nd Gear
      • Dec 2014
      • 225

      #3
      If the starter is cranking, the ignition switch is working fine. No? Check the LT wire running from the coil to the distributor. Old/cracked? If you have a multimeter check continuity on the wire (this flimsy little wire causes exactly what you are seeing). Then make sure the points haven't slipped and aren't opening. Did you replace the points? If you did, hopefully you didn't ground then by not installing them correctly by isolating them with the little plastic washers (also would cause what you are seeing).
      --David

      1959 TR3
      1970 Series IIa 88" ("Homer")

      My hovercraft is full of eels.

      Comment

      • SafeAirOne
        Overdrive
        • Apr 2008
        • 3435

        #4
        Originally posted by mearstrae
        Start with the source of electric (battery), with a muti-meter set in the 12V range or a test light. Do you have power to the ignition switch? Is power leaving the ignition switch? Do you have power to the coil? Do you have power leaving the coil? Is there power at the points? Is the condenser toast? Unless you start with the power source and confirm each component down the line you'll end up guessing and changing parts all over the place.
        Good advise, but my personal preference is to start at the other end and see if I have power where I should and work my way backwards till I find it.
        --Mark

        1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

        0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
        (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

        Comment

        Working...